Technical Panda misbehaving again - EML light and loss of power

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Technical Panda misbehaving again - EML light and loss of power

Throttle cable fitted..?? Looks like it, I think it is a throttle cable, which is then connected to a pot which then sends the position to the ECU by measuring the resistance.

how OLD IS the battery..??, As old as the car, 4.5 years old always starts instantly even when not been used for a couple of weeks, and the voltages are all perfect according to my scope, so would be surprised if it was the battery. This is the only fault I have too.

Jim did you have exactly the same problem in that there was no ECU code too? I would have thought if it was an ECU connection problem there would be more symptons?

99.9% the car runs like a dream, so I very much doubt it is a coil pack/HT lead/plug problem etc. Put there have been other odd little things that have happened, which may when I think about it turn out to be a connection to the ECU problem.
 
There are NO codes stored with this fault as it is a momentary loss of electrical contact/communication between components. Even live data shows nothing......... I am certain this is your problem. Try my tests!!!
 
4 years+ is now normal for battery failure,
ours was behaving perfectly, but it was the cheapest thing to try.

the only time our car actually conked just happened to be at work / opposite the FIAT / Alfa specialist where it had servicing, :rolleyes:

they had it for the afternoon,
no codes, and couldn't reproduce the fault.., :confused:

we changed the battery, and have had another 5 years trouble free(y)

best £40 I've spent in a while,;)

Charlie
 
I am getting some where, today I did the test suggested varesecrazy I wriggled the ECU connectors and nothing, the I wobbled the the connectors very slightly and idle speed suddenly shot up to around 1500rpm. Not looked inside the connectors yet but it does suggest there is a problem there.
 
I have yep, it was your suggestion to try the ECU thing, I got the users mixed up.

Both suggestions have been great though :)

I assume as I do it I need to disconnect the battery, how does the connector to the ECU unclip is it obvious? I am a bit nervous of breaking something I can't do it until Tuesday as it is essential I have the car tomorrow.
 
You do not need to disconnect the battery as you need the car running when you wiggle the connectors to see if you can induce the fault.

They come apart by pulling the locking mechanism OUT (but not remove as they don't remove) at the end of each one. As you do that the connector will LIFT itself out of the ECU. Once you have done one you will see it's easy.
 
Thanks, did you see my post when I said I have already done the wriggle test, and nothing happened, but wobbling the connectors meant the car started idling at a much faster speed :)
 
Yes I did JD82, so I think that's defo where the problem lies as that shouldn't happen either.

Out of interest, and because I'm sure I'll have to do this eventually, has any-one actually opened up either of these plugs to tighten the female connetors, and if so how easy was it to tighten their grip on the pins on the ECU?
 
Simple test as follows will confirm......with the engine running take a hold of the plugs (there are two) and try to move from side to side, take a good hold of the wiring too. You will probably find that you can stall the engine on demand!!!

Remove the ecu plugs, check for bent or damaged or dirty or rusty pins.... and spray both the ecu pins and the plugs with electrical contact cleaner and let it all evaporate (very important). Once bone dry, plug them both in, make sure they are secure with the locking mechanisms, and go for a drive.

You may have to open the plugs and tighten the female connectors so they have a better grip on the pins if the problem comes back.

The problem isn't helped by short cabling making the wiring taut, so engine movement etc loosens the connection.

Please let me know how you get on.[/QUOTE]

I will try this tonight :slayer:
 
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