That's a point. The issue, then, would be whether the speedo reads directly off the speed sensor in the gearbox or via the ECU.
Technical KriTip's 1.2 16V Sei Project
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Technical KriTip's 1.2 16V Sei Project
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Just found the relevant diagram.
There is a hall effect speedometer in the differential that drives to speedo in the panel directly, it also splits off to the ECU, but I guess the speedo will still work with this connection missing.
Krisian
There is a hall effect speedometer in the differential that drives to speedo in the panel directly, it also splits off to the ECU, but I guess the speedo will still work with this connection missing.
Krisian
That's a relief!
Is it clear from the diagram whether the mileage thing is driven from the same take off?
Is it clear from the diagram whether the mileage thing is driven from the same take off?
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No thats not clear, but I pressume the ECU calculates it from that.
Ultimatly though, I think you can swap dials around as much as yuo like on the digital ones, the ECU will always send the right milage. OF course once its removed the car will show no milage at all and it won't clock up either..
thats how I see it anyway. More coplex than a mechanical mileage!
Kristian
Ultimatly though, I think you can swap dials around as much as yuo like on the digital ones, the ECU will always send the right milage. OF course once its removed the car will show no milage at all and it won't clock up either..
thats how I see it anyway. More coplex than a mechanical mileage!
Kristian
any more progress on this one
and made a managment choice yet? or are you still wanting to keep the standard ecu unit now for the millage etc?
on head surfaces they should be no smoother than 600grit and should only be done with a block not concentrated sanding on one area etc, and as you will be doing anyway use new QUALITY gaskets throughout, the cheap ones and DIY gasket paper ones for inlet etc are a complete false economy :bang: an inlet manifold leak will only cause you further headaches so make sure everything is right first time
good luck with the progress im gonna let you finnish this then if it all works out ill start the cinq after youve posted what NOT to do etc :devil:
wayne
and made a managment choice yet? or are you still wanting to keep the standard ecu unit now for the millage etc?
on head surfaces they should be no smoother than 600grit and should only be done with a block not concentrated sanding on one area etc, and as you will be doing anyway use new QUALITY gaskets throughout, the cheap ones and DIY gasket paper ones for inlet etc are a complete false economy :bang: an inlet manifold leak will only cause you further headaches so make sure everything is right first time
good luck with the progress im gonna let you finnish this then if it all works out ill start the cinq after youve posted what NOT to do etc :devil:
wayne
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Sure there is progress
Tonight I finally finished doing all the stem seals and regrinding the valves....it was very boring and probably didn't need to be done but at least I'm happy now.
10x thanks to Dave for sorting me out with some extra seals after my mess up, I owe him one
I have also cleaned up the block mating surface, the pistons, the cylinder head surface, and a few other bits.
Tomorrow the head is going back on which will be a big leap to getting it finished.
I have to buy the cam locking tools ASAP tomorrow though. The Negotiator was a star and offered to lend them to me, but sadly he only had one. That's fine for holding and setting the timing, but no good for refitting the cams. Great appreciation for his help though Once they arrive, wherever i buy them from, i can get the extension on.
As well as the head on tomorrow, I am fitting the old water pump back on, and old tensioner (both seem fine).
With regards to the ECU!? I will try and get it running and fired up with the current one, at least to make sure the engine fires and runs! Then look into what I want/need to do I have been doing a load of research on removing the ECU though, manuals, chatting to local FIAT dealer (the guy seemed pretty impressed! ) etc.
I have a few concerns about a bit of rust the cylinder wall on no 3, am am not sure what to do with, Its only minor surface, but don't want to go sanding the bores. Perhaps its just where the rings/scrapers don't touch? I'll have to find a pic of a 16v piston. Last thig i wan is to be blowing smoke on startup though ;( Very nervous about how it will run lol.
I have a full head gasket set, so that should be fine
All in all, its coming along, albeit more slowly than I planned. I'll post some more piccies tomorrow
Kristian
Tonight I finally finished doing all the stem seals and regrinding the valves....it was very boring and probably didn't need to be done but at least I'm happy now.
10x thanks to Dave for sorting me out with some extra seals after my mess up, I owe him one
I have also cleaned up the block mating surface, the pistons, the cylinder head surface, and a few other bits.
Tomorrow the head is going back on which will be a big leap to getting it finished.
I have to buy the cam locking tools ASAP tomorrow though. The Negotiator was a star and offered to lend them to me, but sadly he only had one. That's fine for holding and setting the timing, but no good for refitting the cams. Great appreciation for his help though
Once they arrive, wherever i buy them from, i can get the extension on.As well as the head on tomorrow, I am fitting the old water pump back on, and old tensioner (both seem fine).
With regards to the ECU!? I will try and get it running and fired up with the current one, at least to make sure the engine fires and runs! Then look into what I want/need to do
I have been doing a load of research on removing the ECU though, manuals, chatting to local FIAT dealer (the guy seemed pretty impressed! ) etc.I have a few concerns about a bit of rust the cylinder wall on no 3, am am not sure what to do with, Its only minor surface, but don't want to go sanding the bores. Perhaps its just where the rings/scrapers don't touch? I'll have to find a pic of a 16v piston. Last thig i wan is to be blowing smoke on startup though ;( Very nervous about how it will run lol.
I have a full head gasket set, so that should be fine
All in all, its coming along, albeit more slowly than I planned. I'll post some more piccies tomorrow
Kristian
You can buy a 3 legged glaze breaker for cleaning the bores from machine mart for £23.48
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Cheers cc1, but i reckon I'll leave it, should wear off i think. Too much money on tools
Speaking of tools, when picking up a bearing at a local factors I found a laser cam locking kit but was £95...so I popped to my local FIAT dealer to spick one up.
They are instructed by FIAT head office that they cann't sell cam locking tools!!!! I asked about renting, they enquired but said no in the end...so it shop4parts to get them, but sadly my work filters the site, so have to wait till this evening At least I'll save £40 or £90 for a few more hours
Kristian
Speaking of tools, when picking up a bearing at a local factors I found a laser cam locking kit but was £95...so I popped to my local FIAT dealer to spick one up.
They are instructed by FIAT head office that they cann't sell cam locking tools!!!! I asked about renting, they enquired but said no in the end...so it shop4parts to get them, but sadly my work filters the site, so have to wait till this evening
At least I'll save £40 or £90 for a few more hours Kristian
Tell them its a restrictive trade practice and contary to European law. If they refuse to sell you'll report them to your Euro MP. Works everytime with Volvo dealers!
Cheers cc1, but i reckon I'll leave it, should wear off i think. Too much money on tools
Speaking of tools, when picking up a bearing at a local factors I found a laser cam locking kit but was £95...so I popped to my local FIAT dealer to spick one up.
They are instructed by FIAT head office that they cann't sell cam locking tools!!!! I asked about renting, they enquired but said no in the end...so it shop4parts to get them, but sadly my work filters the site, so have to wait till this evening
Kristian
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The threads not dead, its coming along slowly
This week I've been on my push bike all week as I took the car off the road to do a wheel bearing. That went pear shaped and cost me a lower arm, but now the bearing is back in (£10 replaced at local garage, I already bought the bearing).
Here's the current status of that job Check out all my oil spray keeping things from rusting
To go with the new arms I have Powerflex front bushes on order, superflex ARB bushes and mounts will be here tomorrow, I figure what the heck
I decided that as progress is coming along, while its on the stands, i may as well start the swap, which I estimate will take a week or so. I have one side apart anyway and the drives shafts will have to come out for the swap, so its seems silly to do all that work again.
The cylinder head is back on the extension is still off with the cams out, but my cam lockers arrived today from shop4parts, so i can get the engine fully rebuilt by saturday and the flywheel clutch on :slayer:
I have some magnecore leads arriving tomorrow as well, and some NGK iridium IX plugs.
Needless to say all that is not cheap. Bushes (ARM and arms) were £75, plugs £25, HT leads £62, cam locking tools £42, all the little things sure add up lol.
I now need to read the manual to figure out exactly how it should all come out, and go back in so wish me luck
Kristian
This week I've been on my push bike all week as I took the car off the road to do a wheel bearing. That went pear shaped and cost me a lower arm, but now the bearing is back in (£10 replaced at local garage, I already bought the bearing).
Here's the current status of that job
Check out all my oil spray keeping things from rusting To go with the new arms I have Powerflex front bushes on order, superflex ARB bushes and mounts will be here tomorrow, I figure what the heck
I decided that as progress is coming along, while its on the stands, i may as well start the swap, which I estimate will take a week or so. I have one side apart anyway and the drives shafts will have to come out for the swap, so its seems silly to do all that work again.
The cylinder head is back on
the extension is still off with the cams out, but my cam lockers arrived today from shop4parts, so i can get the engine fully rebuilt by saturday and the flywheel clutch on :slayer: I have some magnecore leads arriving tomorrow as well, and some NGK iridium IX plugs.
Needless to say all that is not cheap. Bushes (ARM and arms) were £75, plugs £25, HT leads £62, cam locking tools £42, all the little things sure add up lol.
I now need to read the manual to figure out exactly how it should all come out, and go back in so wish me luck
Kristian
nice progress
nice to see your starting the conversion now the only thing i would stress to you is dont rush putting the engine together in any way if you rush something and dont torque it all up correctly it could all go pearshaped or even worse with the tight confined space of the cento bay you could end up taking the engine out again
projects do get out of hand my last sporting proved that a cheap money earner project turned into a mint lovely car but at twice what i estimated, something i really dont want the current car to turn into
while im replying a lad on my other forum runs a lupo gti on throttle boddies :yum: and these of course necessitated the use of stand alone management BUT he has kept the standard ecu and that runs the clocks and everything else and the other (think its motech) runs just the engine something you could definately consider if you did decide on aftermarket management
one thing i will say though i have been looking at many pics of 16v cento engine bays and the five good pics iv found all show the car still has fiat management but im unsure whether it would be the cento system or the punto system in place of the cento system, if you start taking polish language lessons you could use their forum and save a fortune on the ecu
wayne
nice to see your starting the conversion now the only thing i would stress to you is dont rush putting the engine together in any way if you rush something and dont torque it all up correctly it could all go pearshaped or even worse with the tight confined space of the cento bay you could end up taking the engine out again
projects do get out of hand my last sporting proved that a cheap money earner project turned into a mint lovely car but at twice what i estimated, something i really dont want the current car to turn into
while im replying a lad on my other forum runs a lupo gti on throttle boddies :yum: and these of course necessitated the use of stand alone management BUT he has kept the standard ecu and that runs the clocks and everything else and the other (think its motech) runs just the engine
something you could definately consider if you did decide on aftermarket managementone thing i will say though i have been looking at many pics of 16v cento engine bays and the five good pics iv found all show the car still has fiat management but im unsure whether it would be the cento system or the punto system in place of the cento system, if you start taking polish language lessons you could use their forum and save a fortune on the ecu
wayne
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Here's the car at the moment.
Rear arms, driveshafts, hubs, bumper, rad, piping etc removed:
Heres the head gasket leak that occured twice after having the gasket go and head skimmed:
Staring to disconnect everything!:
The enigne rebuilt, with the manifold attached, you can see where it comes out under the sump
Took the sump out and resealed it the other day, all looked fine. Could still do with a bit of cleaning, but thats all cosmetic really!
On a dificulty scale compared to the 8v, I'd say at least double! Makes sense though really, theres pretty much two of everything lol
I think by tomorrow, I can drop it all down and out without the hoist, and hire one for the weekend to try and put the new one in.
I'm having a bas**d of a job getting the manifold of the flex section though, been whacking and hammering for an hour or so tonight, and still can't seperate it!!! Thinking about taking the whole exhaust and manifold down in one section
Coming along though!
Any questions or comments, just shout
Kristian
Rear arms, driveshafts, hubs, bumper, rad, piping etc removed:
Heres the head gasket leak that occured twice after having the gasket go and head skimmed:
Staring to disconnect everything!:
The enigne rebuilt, with the manifold attached, you can see where it comes out under the sump
Took the sump out and resealed it the other day, all looked fine. Could still do with a bit of cleaning, but thats all cosmetic really!
On a dificulty scale compared to the 8v, I'd say at least double! Makes sense though really, theres pretty much two of everything lol
I think by tomorrow, I can drop it all down and out without the hoist, and hire one for the weekend to try and put the new one in.
I'm having a bas**d of a job getting the manifold of the flex section though, been whacking and hammering for an hour or so tonight, and still can't seperate it!!! Thinking about taking the whole exhaust and manifold down in one section
Coming along though!
Any questions or comments, just shout
Kristian
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Spray the exhaust joint with wd and use water pump pliers to twist the pipe.
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It's had a good soak of penetrating oil, but didn't think about twisting with clamps.
Don't know what a water pump pliers are, but I guess two large mole grips may do the trick, although I'm still doubtfull as it did take a massive beating I think the flex may have flexed too much anyway, in which case i may end up cutting it off
Kristian
Don't know what a water pump pliers are, but I guess two large mole grips may do the trick, although I'm still doubtfull as it did take a massive beating
I think the flex may have flexed too much anyway, in which case i may end up cutting it off Kristian
If you can drop the manifold off the studs then that should give you some good leverage.
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Yeah, I comes off the studs.... I should know, it fell on my chest as i was playing under it with no nuts attached and it slipped off the studs If it was anything heavier I wouldn't have risked it.
It can drop about 6 inch thanks to the flex. From there I tried twisting, and getting a long bar and mini sledge and trying to force it off.
I'll try grips and twisting but i guess its one of those c**p jobs that take loads of effort and time for very little reward
Kristian
If it was anything heavier I wouldn't have risked it.It can drop about 6 inch thanks to the flex. From there I tried twisting, and getting a long bar and mini sledge and trying to force it off.
I'll try grips and twisting but i guess its one of those c**p jobs that take loads of effort and time for very little reward
Kristian
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The design of that standard manifold is appalling:yuck:
It makes the punto ones look hi tech and they're just rubbish...
Sorry, digression.
Looking at all that hard work I might just change my mind about mine!
It makes the punto ones look hi tech and they're just rubbish...
Sorry, digression.
Looking at all that hard work I might just change my mind about mine!
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ive got a tri pod hoist you can use if you want rather than hiring one.
good luck dude, I'll pop up one day ( i keep promising lol) to have a ganders got some tools as well if you need to borrow anything
Yeah, I comes off the studs.... I should know, it fell on my chest as i was playing under it with no nuts attached and it slipped off the studs
It can drop about 6 inch thanks to the flex. From there I tried twisting, and getting a long bar and mini sledge and trying to force it off.
I'll try grips and twisting but i guess its one of those c**p jobs that take loads of effort and time for very little reward
Kristian
I think the best bet would be to drop the whole exhaust, Then you can work on it easier.
That's what i did. You can then use an old screwdriver to splay the joint open and reduce the surface tension. The problem might be that the clamp has put a groove in both parts of the exhaust and rust is a good bonding agent.
