Technical Clutch slip 2004 Panda 1.2

[DaveMcT]

35 Kg feels about right. It "can" be done on your driveway, but you need some lateral thinking as it far to much to manhandle into place. A jack underneath and ratchet strap from above turned out the winner. A steel tube (round or square) across the top allows the webbing to slip and rotate the box. The jack always twists and tilts the box so you can't get it turned to where it needs to be.

On that bearing. Mine rotates freely feeling as good as it did before I stripped the box. As already said, I could only feel the the rattle and lumpiness after the bell-housing/cover was removed. Seal drag, etc hid the subtleties of the worn bearing.

 

[DaveMcT]

The car is running again. If you have done a 100HP clutch DO NOT assume the 1.2 is the same. There are subtle differences that make some jobs a real struggle. The 100HP gear cables are quite easy to unclip. The 1.2 are hidden by "stuff" so you ant get at them to pull it knock them out of the slots. Both boxes are heavy but the 100HP is much easier to align and push into place. The 1.2 was a nightmare, though I did find a good method for next time for lifting and rotating the gearbox into place.

 

[koalar]

The car is running again. If you have done a 100HP clutch DO NOT assume the 1.2 is the same. There are subtle differences that make some jobs a real struggle. The 100HP gear cables are quite easy to unclip. The 1.2 are hidden by "stuff" so you ant get at them to pull it knock them out of the slots.

Seems a long winded way I just pop the ball joint joints apart and undo the bracket and move the whole lot out of the way

You only have to knock them out of the slots when you are changing the gear cables

 

[DaveMcT]

Seems a long winded way I just pop the ball joint joints apart and undo the bracket and move the whole lot out of the way

You only have to knock them out of the slots when you are changing the gear cables

That would have been easier. I probably got target fixation. Access to the bolts looked more hassle but it's clearly not.

 

[unfacedman]

Yes. It was indeed a nightmare to set the box back in.

One of its bolts is a part of the housing, used as a guidance bolt and is tighten with a nut. So as it is beginning to set it its hole, you can't anymore rotate the box right-left to align the input-shaft teeth into the clutch.

That's took really a lot of time and what helped on the end was a good spanner sat on the crankshaft's pulley nut from the other side, to rotate the whole clutch assembly until the box (with some pressure from the other, box's side at the same time) just popped in.

 

[DaveMcT]

The ratchet strap around the box and a round steel tube across the engine bay did the job. I had the engine also supported on a strap and hanging low at the clutch end. The jack and strap around the box allowed me to get the box aligned with the engine. That was impossible with the jack alone. Once the gap to engine is the same all around and the bolt holes like up its quite easy to push into place. The gearbox turns easily so the clutch plate splines align themselves.

I bought some M12 x 1.25 bolts 125mm long. The idea was to cut off the heads and use two as locating dowels to pre-align the gearbox. I never needed them. They would need flats filing on the end for unscrewing but that's easy enough to do. As said. I never needed to bother.

 

[koalar]

The car is running again. If you have done a 100HP clutch DO NOT assume the 1.2 is the same. There are subtle differences that make some jobs a real struggle. The 100HP gear cables are quite easy to unclip. The 1.2 are hidden by "stuff" so you ant get at them to pull it knock them out of the slots. Both boxes are heavy but the 100HP is much easier to align and push into place. The 1.2 was a nightmare, though I did find a good method for next time for lifting and rotating the gearbox into place.

Normally they just push on fairly easily

Sometimes they don’t

This one didn’t so I fitted the engine mount back to check if everything is in alignment a little adjustment of the jack under the sump and it push right on

 

[rmjbn1]

I followed the procedure given in Williams Mobile Clutch YouTube video as closely as I could and I think it's a good guide...
... until he lies on his back with the gearbox on his chest and pushes it up into position. I tried that and failed. It was too heavy for me to lift long enough to manoeuvre it into place.
Luckily I had a glamorous assistant to help hold the box up from above, and even more luckily it then slid straight on.
I had the engine supported by a jack and timber under the sump, hanging down a little from the front engine mount (as in the video).
I agree, it seems to be down to luck if the splines are aligned or not.
The last clutch I did (on my other car) was a pig to reattach the gearbox. I ended up recentring the clutch three times before I could finally get them to mate up.

 

[DaveMcT]

I had the engine on a strap like above but the timber ran fore-aft with batten to spread the load. I supported the box with a ratchet strap and jack so I could get the strap just right.

The five speed box is well balanced with the strap around bell-housing to box joint area. A steel tube instead of 4x2 allows the box to rotate. Simply jacking it always pulls it around. There is no centre point to jack against.

I didn’t need them. However, long bolts M12x1.25 with heads cut off would give useful guides to locate the box before the drive spindle connects. Once it’s connected, screw them out and fit the correct retaining bolts.