My new SKF C3 opens ball bearing was gently tapped until it hit the shoulder on the shaft. To be fair, I did not use a feeler gauge to look for any gap, but there was nothing visible with a light held behind. The bearing was up against the shoulder as you would expect in any other situation.
A C3 bearing is needed, probably because the shaft interference is tight. I used a three-legged puller with a well lubricated jack screw. My puller legs were too short but they are linked to pivot in the middle so I made up longer links from steel strip. Basically make one and use that as a pattern to make the other five.
I pulled the puller up tight and was tempted to hit the screw head to shock the bearing loose - but that would impact the other end bearing, so I turned up the pressure, using a screwdriver between the legs to counter the spanner torque. It came loose with an audible "PING" and then moved quite easily. There is no way something that tight could be fitted with an accurate gap between the inner bearing race and the shaft shoulder.
The new bearing was fitted with an aluminium tube of suitable diameter to tap it into place. It does not need much impact, but pre-heating the bearing to 150 degs C would have been a much better idea. I stand corrected on that one.
When done, I slathered on some grease for start-up lube and boxed up the gearbox. Time will tell if the new bearing out-lasts the new clutch.
The gear oil filler has a 12mm AF hex socket and my goodness it's tight. I had a 12mm ring/open spanner with a 19mm hooked into the open end before it shifted. Maybe try a breaker bar next time.
Edit -
I filled the gear oil with car front end still on axle stands. This will have the box slightly over-filled as it took 1.8 lites before oil was dribbling out of the filler hole. It just might help the input bearing to be better lubed. We will have to see how it goes.
