I'd try one from a scrap car if you can get one (voor weinig).
gr J
gr J
Technical Sluggish Panda 1.2 Euro 5
- Thread starter Martijn169
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Technical Sluggish Panda 1.2 Euro 5
Correct
I believe for flyby wire throttle bodies the panda an 500 share the same accelerator pedal including the dualogic
The diesel is different part number
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I had one of ours checked at 37,000 miles and it was apparently still exactly right. Hydrualic lifters have some advantages it seems. The dealer said they had never seen one in much need of reshimming.
If the throttle body or pedal are changed
You are supposed to perform a relearn
I suspect it not too critical if the sensors are the same brand, but might be an issue if fiat use more than one brands
You are supposed to perform a relearn
I suspect it not too critical if the sensors are the same brand, but might be an issue if fiat use more than one brands
Martijn169
New member
I am working on getting a used one from a scrapper.
I guess a relearn would only be necessary to optimize the functionality of the accelerator pedal? Not to get it functioning in the first place,
First priority is to get rid of this issue and then I will start optimizing.
I will keep you posted!
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I didn't do a relearn on mine, I just put it in. It was from a Fiat 500. I believe the Ford Ka is the same.
You can cross check the part number.
You can cross check the part number.
Curious
Is this with cheap ELM327 Bluetooth dongle and the free car scanner app for an android phone
Cool it can reads both tracks, A lot only read the primary one
Martijn169
New member
Tomorrow I am going to pick up an accelerator pedal from a scrapper. Luckily I can swap it for a throttle body I picked up earlier and don't need.
I will let you know the result!
I will let you know the result!
Martijn169
New member
Today I have picked up an accelerator pedal from a scrapper. From the outside ot looked very good, no apparent damage or connector corrosion.
As I did not want to look like a fool at the breakers yard I took the accelerator pedal home to install it there.
Installation was a piece of cake. The most complex aspect was to find a comfortable position in which I could loosen and fasten the retaining nuts.
Long story short, I managed to install the 'new' pedal and it solved the issue. Yes, it really did.
What a joy it was to drive the car for the first time without any limitation. It feels really swift, especially compared to the situation where the opening of the throttle body was limited to 30%.
Of course I have also chevked for DTC's. After removing the stored P1220 from the ECU the liberating message appeared that there are no more active DTC's!
Result!
For future reference I have also checked the absolute pedal position when the pedal is at its resting position. This to get an idea about the 'normal' values. Below the result. So no or very small difference between the two seems to be allowable for the ECU to judge the pedal position information as plausible.
For now thanks to all for your help in solving this issue.
As I did not want to look like a fool at the breakers yard I took the accelerator pedal home to install it there.
Installation was a piece of cake. The most complex aspect was to find a comfortable position in which I could loosen and fasten the retaining nuts.
Long story short, I managed to install the 'new' pedal and it solved the issue. Yes, it really did.
What a joy it was to drive the car for the first time without any limitation. It feels really swift, especially compared to the situation where the opening of the throttle body was limited to 30%.
Of course I have also chevked for DTC's. After removing the stored P1220 from the ECU the liberating message appeared that there are no more active DTC's!
Result!
For future reference I have also checked the absolute pedal position when the pedal is at its resting position. This to get an idea about the 'normal' values. Below the result. So no or very small difference between the two seems to be allowable for the ECU to judge the pedal position information as plausible.
For now thanks to all for your help in solving this issue.
Martijn169
New member
Out of curiosity I disassembled the faulty pedal to find out that somebody had opened the potentiometer assembly before me. I don't know if this has been the cause of the pedal failing or if somebody tried to fix the pedal.
In any case, I took a picture of its intestines. Below you will see a picture.
In any case, I took a picture of its intestines. Below you will see a picture.
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Has your EML light been disabled?
Martijn169
New member
I don't know. Can that be done (electronically)?
Yes
But not easily
I only know of one case from a wrong ECU bought online where the light was programmed out, as far as I can tell from the label yours is the correct ECU for your car, so it very unlikely
There are other reasons for no engine check light
Here's mine with a faulty earth cable
No engine, oil or battery lights but the immobiliser is on at ignition on
I would expect at least the oil or battery to be wrong also, but yours is a different dash to what I normally see, this is why I asked to see the dash earlier but everything else except the engine light looks right
But seeing it's very easy to check, clean and unpainted part of the engine block and the top of the battery negative terminal, multimeter on volts, probes on the block and negative, get someone to crank the car, should be below 0.2V although it will not be an issue up to 0.5V
I don't think it will be faulty, but once confirmed okay we can at least move on
I would connect to the instrument cluster panel via the diagnostic port and toggle the light on and off, But I don't know of a free or cheap software solution that definitely does that
Someone could have removed or tapped over it for selling the car or inspection/test
Last edited:
Martijn169
New member
This I already checked.
The light has not been taped off and there are no signs of the cluster been tampered with.
The PCB of the instrument cluster is locked into place in such a way that it would show if it would have been removed earlier. As far as I have seen that is not the case.
I have a dash from a Multijet that had the EML knobbled by a previous owner. It had no visible signs that I noticed when I removed it, and the light worked as expected on the replacement dash.
I'll take it apart later and see if I can spot the bodgery.
I'll take it apart later and see if I can spot the bodgery.
Board comes out, but you have to remove the pointers first, they are just pushed on
LEDs are surface mount on the other side
If your meter has a diode test function, most do, put the leads across each LED one way round it should measure a voltage and give a reading and with the leads reversed it should be open circuit
Koalar random thoughts | FIAT Panda (Mk3)
Thought I post on here as the information on sealing rings is hard to come by Oil filters 1.2 There's two types notice the engine number of the swap over The early ones are longer, A it the diameter H is the length C is the outer diameter of the sealing ring Also notice the bypass...
www.fiatforum.com
Victorie!
Enjoy the Panda!
gr J
Enjoy the Panda!
gr J
Martijn169
New member
Thanks!
