Technical Sluggish Panda 1.2 Euro 5

[A3jeroen]

I'd try one from a scrap car if you can get one (voor weinig).

gr J

 

[koalar]

I think it is safe to say that the lack of power is caused by some sort of safe mode or limp mode which is activated by DTC P1220.

Correct

 

[koalar]

I'd try one from a scrap car if you can get one (voor weinig).

gr J

I believe for flyby wire throttle bodies the panda an 500 share the same accelerator pedal including the dualogic

The diesel is different part number

 

[The Panda Nut]

not by much; shimmed OHC engines generally are fine for at least the first 75k miles. My own Panda is now on around 125k and there's no reason to suspect the valve gear needs reshimming.

I had one of ours checked at 37,000 miles and it was apparently still exactly right. Hydrualic lifters have some advantages it seems. The dealer said they had never seen one in much need of reshimming.

 

[koalar]

If the throttle body or pedal are changed

You are supposed to perform a relearn


I suspect it not too critical if the sensors are the same brand, but might be an issue if fiat use more than one brands

 

[Martijn169]

If the throttle body or pedal are changed

You are supposed to perform a relearn


I suspect it not too critical if the sensors are the same brand, but might be an issue if fiat use more than one brands

I'd try one from a scrap car if you can get one (voor weinig).

gr J

I am working on getting a used one from a scrapper.

I guess a relearn would only be necessary to optimize the functionality of the accelerator pedal? Not to get it functioning in the first place,
First priority is to get rid of this issue and then I will start optimizing.

I will keep you posted!

 

[MrMagoo]

I didn't do a relearn on mine, I just put it in. It was from a Fiat 500. I believe the Ford Ka is the same.
You can cross check the part number.

 

[koalar]

Just yet I used the OBDII dongle to look for irregularities in the accelerator pedal.
When I don't touch the pedal the APPS readings are 15% and 21%. This seems quite a difference to me. And it would fit the observation that the P1220 DTC returns immediately, also when the pedal is not touched.

View attachment 464088

Curious

Is this with cheap ELM327 Bluetooth dongle and the free car scanner app for an android phone

Cool it can reads both tracks, A lot only read the primary one

 

[Martijn169]

Tomorrow I am going to pick up an accelerator pedal from a scrapper. Luckily I can swap it for a throttle body I picked up earlier and don't need.

I will let you know the result!

 

[Martijn169]

Today I have picked up an accelerator pedal from a scrapper. From the outside ot looked very good, no apparent damage or connector corrosion.
As I did not want to look like a fool at the breakers yard I took the accelerator pedal home to install it there.

Installation was a piece of cake. The most complex aspect was to find a comfortable position in which I could loosen and fasten the retaining nuts.

Long story short, I managed to install the 'new' pedal and it solved the issue. Yes, it really did.
What a joy it was to drive the car for the first time without any limitation. It feels really swift, especially compared to the situation where the opening of the throttle body was limited to 30%.

Of course I have also chevked for DTC's. After removing the stored P1220 from the ECU the liberating message appeared that there are no more active DTC's!
Result!

For future reference I have also checked the absolute pedal position when the pedal is at its resting position. This to get an idea about the 'normal' values. Below the result. So no or very small difference between the two seems to be allowable for the ECU to judge the pedal position information as plausible.

For now thanks to all for your help in solving this issue.

 

[Martijn169]

Out of curiosity I disassembled the faulty pedal to find out that somebody had opened the potentiometer assembly before me. I don't know if this has been the cause of the pedal failing or if somebody tried to fix the pedal.

In any case, I took a picture of its intestines. Below you will see a picture.

 

[MrMagoo]

Has your EML light been disabled?

 

[Martijn169]

Has your EML light been disabled?

I don't know. Can that be done (electronically)?

 

[koalar]

I don't know. Can that be done (electronically)?

Yes

But not easily

I only know of one case from a wrong ECU bought online where the light was programmed out, as far as I can tell from the label yours is the correct ECU for your car, so it very unlikely

There are other reasons for no engine check light

Here's mine with a faulty earth cable

No engine, oil or battery lights but the immobiliser is on at ignition on

I would expect at least the oil or battery to be wrong also, but yours is a different dash to what I normally see, this is why I asked to see the dash earlier but everything else except the engine light looks right


But seeing it's very easy to check, clean and unpainted part of the engine block and the top of the battery negative terminal, multimeter on volts, probes on the block and negative, get someone to crank the car, should be below 0.2V although it will not be an issue up to 0.5V

I don't think it will be faulty, but once confirmed okay we can at least move on

I would connect to the instrument cluster panel via the diagnostic port and toggle the light on and off, But I don't know of a free or cheap software solution that definitely does that

Someone could have removed or tapped over it for selling the car or inspection/test

 

[Martijn169]

Someone could have removed or tapped over it for selling the car or inspection/test

This I already checked.
The light has not been taped off and there are no signs of the cluster been tampered with.
The PCB of the instrument cluster is locked into place in such a way that it would show if it would have been removed earlier. As far as I have seen that is not the case.