Technical KriTip's 1.2 16V Sei Project

[T.E.D. Jordan]

Didn't want to put a damper on your exhaust after id read you were going for powerflow, but i feel you'll only have problems. The grade of stainless they use is not what the make it out to be, their welding is usally mild steel on stainless via MIG, producing alot of unecessary turbulence on the inside of the exhaust. Only thing i can say thats positive is that you've managed to tell them exactly what you want, and it does look the part. They usally sound awesome too

Jordan

 

[MiG]

I'd talk to performance alloys. I find it very difficult to believe that an Italian company doesn't make wheels in 98pcd (Alfa, Fiat. Lancia fitment) in 14 and 15. More likely performance alloys don't stock them.

I rather like those wheels, and they're very cheap. Talk to performance alloys (and/or to OZ in Italy). If they won't do you some, tell 'em you'll go to Compomotive (direct) -- that should really **** them off!

ain't OZ wheels made in Japan now and don't have the quality they used too ? S'what a few local shops round here told me.

They do look the part tho...

 

[CinqyAbarth]

et voila..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/14-ALLOY-WHEE...ryZ28648QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
same style-ish as the Super Ts, 4x98, 6x14 ET35..

Ii bet if you put Abarth centre caps in there you couldnt tell the difference between them and OZs. And theyre half the price!

Can probably get them to fit some 195/45/14s on there cheapish aswell as theyre quoting 175/60s for £99 a set!

That's what id do if i had a budget for 14" wheels.. or keep an eye out for some Punto 14x6 Abarth Speedlines like i just sold!

HTH
Craig

 

[Chas Uno]

Won't wider tyres make it worse in the rain as the cars so light and can't displace the water?

Over-tyred small/ light cars in the wet can 'aquaplane'. There's already been a few threads of people on FF who fitted very wide tyres to their car and then ending up crashing after suddenly 'losing' the front or back end in the wet

 

[fingers99]

Over-tyred small/ light cars in the wet can 'aquaplane'. There's already been a few threads of people on FF who fitted very wide tyres to their car and then ending up crashing after suddenly 'losing' the front or back end in the wet

Even big, under tyred cars can aquaplane. But having decent tyres is a pretty good defence against it. Aquaplaning almost always happens at fairly high speeds in a straight line and feels very different from losing the front or rear end. Because it happens in a straight line, it's usually possible to recover from aquaplaning, even on a bike. 195s are not spectacularly wide.

 

[StoneNewt]

Even big, under tyred cars can aquaplane. But having decent tyres is a pretty good defence against it.

Totally agree the V70 aquaplaned like a b**ch on conservative width 215 'summer' tyres, however on nice n' wide 255 'winter' tyres she's quite happy through standing water and even on snow. The wider tyres performed better due to the fact they have a higher grove to contact area ratio.

Aquaplaning almost always happens at fairly high speeds in a straight line and feels very different from losing the front or rear end. Because it happens in a straight line, it's usually possible to recover from aquaplaning, even on a bike. 195s are not spectacularly wide.

Again agreed, just realising what's going on can be a problem... First time I encountered it in the V70 the engine revs increasing for no apparent throttle input with an accompanying a feeling of instability didn't ring the alarm bells till well after it had settled again.

 

[randomizered]

Just got back from the stoke meet, some nice cars :yum:

Here's a little tip for anyone who does this though...... make SURE your crack sensor bracket is secure!!!!!

Mine came loose at high speed on a country lane during an overtake and led to total power loss, a stop in a dangerous place, and trying to fix in the rain.

It then came loose a second time on the same journey!!!! Again it was on an overtake, but this time on a dual carriage way luckily by a lay by I coasted into


Tomorrow its anti vibrate washers and a stupid amount of thread lock!!!!! Don't want that to EVER happen again lol.

Kristian

 

[randomizered]

Still no videos im afraid but sometime this week I promise.

Had a funny noise ever since dropping the alternator onto the pulley, bearings are on their way out now I think.

Also getting smoke out of the breather filter as well, so that needs an investigation.....praying its not worn piston rings



After reading fault codes I'm getting P0340 cam timing faults, and randomly and engine management light with p0300 multiple random cylinder misfire.

I have been speaking to JR and he also gets the P0340 code as well, I was hoping it was a dodgy sensor.

I presume the lobe on the cam on the 16v appears at a different part of the engine cycle, compared to the 8v. I have no doubt the cam timing fault causes the P0300 as well.

I really need a dual channel oscilloscope and an mpi sei and my car to compare the sensor outputs at the same time.

This is really swaying me to after market ECU as these problems will be alleviated, but I will have to save up before I can do it.


Nothing is ever simple is it lol. Any thoughts and ideas on my problems, feel free to shout

KRistian

 

[davethetrike]

This is really swaying me to after market ECU as these problems will be alleviated, but I will have to save up before I can do it.


Nothing is ever simple is it lol. Any thoughts and ideas on my problems, feel free to shout

KRistian

That oscilliscope business sounds a bit complex!!!!

I've got 2 things bugging me about megasquirt at the mo but it should be ready soon latest will be next week. Hang fire and see what happens. Mind you the way things go for me it'll be the end of July!
I ran my standard 8v spi ecu with the afr meter connected, surprisingly it was tolerable except for quick revs.... lean.

No luck with a remap then?

 

[randomizered]

I haven't had the map done yet....it seems to be running ok apart from the ecu errors caused by different hardware.

I'm desperately trying to pay the card off, and as soon as its done, it will be a remap or aftermarket, but with the cam timing problem at the moment, it looks like aftermartket is the only way.

Oscilloscopes are no probs...3 years electronic mobile phone repair, RF and BB, i am more than capable, I just don't have the set-up as it lots of ££

THe AFR meter sounds very nice for temp peace of mind....is that MS or some seperate sensor?

Kristian

 

[davethetrike]

I haven't had the map done yet....it seems to be running ok apart from the ecu errors caused by different hardware.

I'm desperately trying to pay the card off, and as soon as its done, it will be a remap or aftermarket, but with the cam timing problem at the moment, it looks like aftermartket is the only way.

Oscilloscopes are no probs...3 years electronic mobile phone repair, RF and BB, i am more than capable, I just don't have the set-up as it lots of ££

THe AFR meter sounds very nice for temp peace of mind....is that MS or some seperate sensor?

Kristian

I fitted 2 guages before the project started (chinese ebay so very cheap) one was afr, one was 'boost'. The afr was supposed to be for 'peace of mind' and the boost - well lets hope. However, the Afr fluctuates a lot -you can watch the Lambda correcting the mixture once youve got used to it - and takes a little interpreting. Because it was fitted before the engine swap I can see that it is basically OK but running lean when I squeeze the loud pedal quick.

Expense, yeah I've blown a hole in my bank account, I've got some money maturing in around 12 weeks so the game starts afresh then. But thats respray and bodywork + wheels - I'm hoping no further expense until then.

 

[randomizered]

Did your AFR come with a lamda or sensor? I have just been looking at them, and I think a wideband lamdba gives the best results.

£69.33 delivered for a Bosch one. I guess you are using one though, as MS will need one?

Kristian

 

[arc]

you need a controller to 'drive' a wideband lambda. a wideband sensor without one is just a pair of narrowbands wired together... pretty useless.

theres stuff out there re building your own; but this is generally regarded as the best for the money.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

It has two configurable analog outputs on the controller, if you configure it to output between 0 and 1v (the range of a NB sensor) and connect one output to the ECU and the other to an AFR gauge. That way the ECU is getting a wideband signal, just in the voltage range it'd be expecting. and the AFR gauge will display the signal too.

my raidHP gauge did not come with a lambda sensor. I was expecting it to for what it cost.. i didnt need the sensor, but i wanted it!

megasquirt can use a narrowband sensor, or a wideband sensor if wired up as described above through a controller.

 

[randomizered]

Ah, I see. I thought MS could take the WB as a direct input with the driving done of the MS iteslf.

What is the point of the WB with MS if it is only used to simulate a NB?! Just so you can also drive a display?

Kristian

 

[arc]

Ah, I see. I thought MS could take the WB as a direct input with the driving done of the MS iteslf.

What is the point of the WB with MS if it is only used to simulate a NB?! Just so you can also drive a display?

Kristian

It doesn't emulate a NB sensor. A NB sensor is only accurate at stoichiometric, if it drifts off that it can tell you it's rich or lean but not accurately by how much either way.

A wideband sensor with controller with give you an accurate reading of the AFR regardless of what it is, the controller then converts this to a reading the ECU is expecting. The only emulation of the NB sensor is the voltage range it outputs, on a stock setup a WB sensor will operate between 0 and 5v.. which an ECU expecting a NB signal ain't gonna like.

The Emerald ECU has a WB controller already built in i think. Specs seemed a bit vauge on that though to me.

 

[davethetrike]

Megasquirt can read a wideband and a narrowband. You can also (using wband) set target afr in each tps / rpm / map range. I haven't gone the wideband route although ARC iirc has. Megasquirt - via a laptop can also shoW mixture strength. I used an afr meter because I thought it would help me with setting mixture, but thats crap. It is very vague but, sorta useful. Don't spend your money on it IMO.

Just to clarify.
MS will work with NB or WB (I don't know about a controller as I haven't gone this route) and the point is that you can set targets for afr with wb and megasquirt will sort the afr (using the results from the wb sensor)for you... which it can't do on nb, nb has to work with your ve table, Megasquirt does not not need an afr meter it has one built in to the msquirt software.


Sooner or later one of us, Asteris, Arc, myself or Eskimo God , maybe someone else, will crack it. And then we can get away from mapping standard ecu at £££££££s. Megasquirt at less than £300 built including a stim will then represent very good value for money.

 

[randomizered]

I just got accepted on a 13 month 0% balance transfer card, so can now get this issue sorted soon

From getting the MS in the post to up and running, do you think a weekend is feasable?

If it preassembled, all i need to do is match the looms up, put some dodgy base map in and go for map as you drive?!

For £275 (plus a few options, multi-map + knock) and a WB lambda and poss controller, it is a bargain.

I'm looking at the Omex 600 and Emerald, but the costs are so much higher, I figure MS is worth a serious look! Just depends how easy it will be.


To be honest its a shame I have to ditch this ECU. It supports knock, and sequential injection!!! But the sequential injection is only in the really expensive managment systems that are way out of my leauge.

I'm looking at buying from www.extraefi.co.uk . The guy seems good, and the prices are nice, with the loom and everything else. 7-14 day lead time.

Where did you both get yours from? Arc, yours took ageas didn't it! Dave, yours arrived quickly?

Cheers for all your help

Kristian

 

[eskimo_god]

i know that dave got his from Bill Shurvinton not sure about arc

ive been looking at emareld as well but cant find any cheaper than £550

if you made up your loom using a dummy ecu before you took your car off the road i would say its possiable in a weekend

ill aways give you a hand i need to learn a bit

 

[randomizered]

£580 is the cheapest I have found exc VAT, so £681 inc vat. Is that £550 including VAT?!

Kristian

 

[davethetrike]

From getting the MS in the post to up and running, do you think a weekend is feasable?

If it preassembled, all i need to do is match the looms up, put some dodgy base map in and go for map as you drive?!

For £275 (plus a few options, multi-map + knock) and a WB lambda and poss controller, it is a bargain.

I'm looking at the Omex 600 and Emerald, but the costs are so much higher, I figure MS is worth a serious look! Just depends how easy it will be.


I'm looking at buying from www.extraefi.co.uk . The guy seems good, and the prices are nice, with the loom and everything else. 7-14 day lead time.

Where did you both get yours from? Arc, yours took ageas didn't it! Dave, yours arrived quickly?


Kristian

1 It's possible, when its been sorted and you are very confident with it. I'm neither so would say no, longer, much longer.

2 Yes, but no-one has done it yet and nothing is proven.

3 It is a bargain - if it works - you will need a stimulator as well!

4 He has an excellent reputation, I bought mine from Bill - 2 weeks from asking to arrival built.
5 Hang fire a week, as even the question af whether it is hall effect or VR is still debatable.
6 Good Luck
Arc has taken a different route................:worship: