Technical Change front end on 09 ducato x250 to 2015

[the green vanper]

Usually relays are used to connect receivers which use higher current (headlights, motors, heaters) to spare switches and wires and money on them. A switch able to pass 30A for a long period of time will be bigger (uglier) and more expensive than one that that can pass 1A.

The signal is switched by the small switch, goes through the relay which powers the high current part of the circuit.

I don't know if the same logic is applied here, but I think it's not. Although could be similar.

Normally (lights off and ignition on) the LEDs are lit up (the current flows to the LEDs), but when you switch on the dipped beam, the current is being cut off from the DRLs.

Check that on your diagram pins 87 and 87a are similar, but can serve 2 different devices. If you connect only one device, one of the two pins can be left empty.

In my diagram both DRLs were ment to be connected via same pin on same relay.

According to what NeilDD just wrote, the relay can be different. Hope the electrician checked what he got.

 

[Seanwinder22]

@Seanwinder22
be careful s there are two types of relay available.
Form A
Form B
Although they are the same functionally they have different pinouts

Yes this is my point buddy
I’ve told the sparky the lay out got told here
So today I thought let me check if matches this relay
And it doesn’t
This is why main beam went out and side light bulbs are blowing

 

[Seanwinder22]

Usually relays are used to connect receivers which use higher current (headlights, motors, heaters) to spare switches and wires and money on them. A switch able to pass 30A for a long period of time will be bigger (uglier) and more expensive than one that that can pass 1A.

The signal is switched by the small switch, goes through the relay which powers the high current part of the circuit.

I don't know if the same logic is applied here, but I think it's not. Although could be similar.

Normally (lights off and ignition on) the LEDs are lit up (the current flows to the LEDs), but when you switch on the dipped beam, the current is being cut off from the DRLs.

Check that on your diagram pins 87 and 87a are similar, but can serve 2 different devices. If you connect only one device, one of the two pins can be left empty.

In my diagram both DRLs were ment to be connected via same pin on same relay.

According to what NeilDD just wrote, the relay can be different. Hope the electrician checked what he got.

Yep thanks
And nar he hasn’t obviously lol
But my fault I think because I read out what you said
But checked this morning while had 10 mins before work
He’s got the earth wire coming from x250 going to pin 85 on relay which on diagram from Amazon should be to positive trigger source

 

[Seanwinder22]

I may be wrong but from the relay here’s what I would do
Pin 87a to drl positive
Pin 30 ignition positive
Pin 85 side light/markers positive
Pin 86 ground
Pin 87 no connection

 

[Seanwinder22]

I may be wrong but from the relay here’s what I would do
Pin 87a to drl positive
Pin 30 ignition positive
Pin 85 sidelights positive
Pin 86 ground
Pin 87

My relay is this one which this guy shows actually how to use on his drl

 

[Seanwinder22]

Correct way on this relay

 

[the green vanper]

It'd be good to see how this relay works.

The only difference between your idea in post #145 and mine in post #119 are two wires: 85 and 86. Could be it's the difference of the relay type. If not, it's a problem

My idea on my relay type is:

1. when there's no voltage on pin 30 (ignition off), there's no voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs off).

2. when there's voltage on pin 30 (ignition on) and there's no voltage on pin 86 (headlights = side lights off), there should be voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs on).

3. when there's voltage on pin 30 (ignition on) and there's voltage on pin 86 (headlights = side lights on), there should be no voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs off).

Are you able to 'translate it' to you relay type?

 

[Seanwinder22]

It'd be good to see how this relay works.

The only difference between your idea in post #145 and mine in post #119 are two wires: 85 and 86. Could be it's the difference of the relay type. If not, it's a problem

My idea on my relay type is:

1. when there's no voltage on pin 30 (ignition off), there's no voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs off).

2. when there's voltage on pin 30 (ignition on) and there's no voltage on pin 86 (headlights = side lights off), there should be voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs on).

3. when there's voltage on pin 30 (ignition on) and there's voltage on pin 86 (headlights = side lights on), there should be no voltage on pins 87 and 87a (DRLs off).

Are you able to 'translate it' to you relay type?

This is what he was trying to do buddy also he was saying the bulb should be dim I may be wrong here and have it mixed what he said but when dipped beam on drl go off
And and Also need to be wired correctly because should be bright but also dim when others turned on

This morning he is back I will mention this diagram to him on Amazon of relay I have
Surly he knows what to do
YouTube is many videos of my relay wiring drl so we will see
Otherwise I will go collect different relays
But he’s 100% wired them wrong but only looking at images on Amazon how it’s wired
The white wire pin 86 is earth
He’s definitely used black wire pin 85

 

[Seanwinder22]

All sorted full job completed
We now have levelling too
Thanks everyone for the help especially you the green vanper

 

[Seanwinder22]

So he explained about why every pin was taken on the relay and something about the sidelights ignition turn on drl comes on
Turn side light on
Drl turn off same with headlights
But also beam strengh
Turn key drl are very bright
But then need to dim or fade I can’t remember
So I left it to him he had relay wired
pin 30 ignition feed but 15amp fused
Pin 85 ground
Pin 87a drl
Pin 87 sidelights
Pin 86 headlights
It’s worked that’s all I do know

 

[Seanwinder22]

59 plate fiat ducato maxi 160 multijet 3.0 has now had a full facelift
Job 100% complete
Thanks to the few that helped with info
A full video is now available in English

 

[Seanwinder22]

Before the facelift and after
I must say WHAT A TRANSFORMATION worth it 100%

 

[Happydays2024]

Well today didn’t go great at all he spent a few hours on it and had to leave he run out of time
he got all lights working but has a total of 3 wires left which are for auto levelling
He used x2 5 pin relays in total but no connections at all he soldered it all and heat shrink
Reason for relays so not running wires from other head light to one relay so used 2 and run a ignition feed from a wire he found in a harness
So I’m left with no levellers
But also another issues main beam kept going out on its own
Says he will call back Tuesday morning try sort the issues

Hi sorry iv only just seen this as for the head lights wiring i had to get help with this as im no good with that i have got the bits of paper somewhere with what went where ... if you still need it let me know.. i dont get notifications on this thread

 

[Steady1234]

I will do a video on this myself in English so at least one is online
From start to finish
Taking the pre lift off
Doing the welding on the bonnet brackets to the bulkhead
To pinning the brace panel etc
Everything else is pretty simple
The coolant bottle/steering bottle just moves to the back on a new galv bracket that’s about it
Take out old scuttle tray
Can leave old bonnet brackets on with rhd drive because no bracket is in the way of the window on the new scuttle tray to get to coolant
Only left hand drive because of air box on the bonnet

Brace panel needs to be spotted on the leg and a little grinder cut to shape under the panel ready for the headlight bracket

I would say start to finish 2 hours to 3 max
Hardest part is welding new bracket location for bonnet
Once they are on
Good to go
I will take photos and videos of the fix

 

[Steady1234]

Well today didn’t go great at all he spent a few hours on it and had to leave he run out of time
he got all lights working but has a total of 3 wires left which are for auto levelling
He used x2 5 pin relays in total but no connections at all he soldered it all and heat shrink
Reason for relays so not running wires from other head light to one relay so used 2 and run a ignition feed from a wire he found in a harness
So I’m left with no levellers
But also another issues main beam kept going out on its own
Says he will call back Tuesday morning try sort the issues

Hi, I’ve just done the same front end conversion and I’m now at the headlights and struggling,I would appreciate any help you can give me please?

 

[Steady1234]

Hi sorry iv only just seen this as for the head lights wiring i had to get help with this as im no good with that i have got the bits of paper somewhere with what went where ... if you still need it let me know.. i dont get notifications on this thread

Hi, I’ve just done the same front end conversion and I’m now at the headlights and struggling,I would appreciate any help you can give me please?

 

[Steady1234]

All sorted full job completed
We now have levelling too
Thanks everyone for the help especially you the green vanper

Doing the same can you please help,

 

[Seanwinder22]

Doing the same can you please help,

Sorry just seen this
What are you struggling with

 

[Steady1234]

The screws he had in the bag were the screws for the dust / mud covers that go underneath the van. They are generally rusted. Or missing.

The part he's holding at around 6:40 is I assume the front brace panel. It is different than in the x250, as it has side parts that the headlights are bolted to.
The upper rubber mounts of the cooler are the same (6:50), so no need to change them (nor the coolers). He changed those because they had more or less 10 years and thought it's a good moment. Same for the reinforcement which is behind the bumper, it was also rusted and that's why he changed it.

At 7:20 he's explaining the reservoirs and their mounts - the new ones have to get much further back. And as mentionned in the previous post - the new mount is galvanized and is using the existing holes in the frame. Access to the reservoirs is explained at 15:20.

At around 8:50 he's explaining I assume the side brace panels. The old one is different, they are spot welded, so need some work to be removed. Then, the new one has a different shape, so the part remaining on the van has to be cut to shape (9:55). It also needed some rust to be removed (10:20). At 11:03 he shows where the front brace panel should be attached.

At around 12:50 he's explaining that first the front brace needs to be attached to the cooler rubber mounts and levelled. Then, the side braces are bolted to the front one. At 13:24 he explains to align the new side brace to the signs of how the old one was welded. But (which he doesn't mention) it also needs to be aligned in the place shown in the bottom right on the video! He's working on that at 24:57.

Around 22:15 he explains the bolts and nuts - they are all the same

Around 24:45 he explains the colour difference of the plastic wheel arch (?). SEVEL changed the colour of the plastics (probably the supplier) in 2016, so in order to have the same colour, you need to get those from a 2015 - 2016 van.

Sorry just seen this
What are you struggling with

Hi, thanks for your reply, I have the wiring and plugs cut from another vehicle, just what goes to what colour, I have tried testing but when ignition is on there are two live , Im a panel beater and not good with electrics

 

[Steady1234]

Sorry just seen this
What are you struggling with

Hi, any possibility of some help please,