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Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

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Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

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gazzaman2k said:
bit pricey like :
Click to expand...

Not for the piece of mind (and worry) that it brings. I have one fitted into my coupe (permantely as its a permanent install wideband) and its something i would be buying again when i install a turbo in the wee project cinq. Means you know whats happening with fueling at all times. 3 items i reckon that a turbo conversion needs over and above...

Oil temp gauge
Wideband lambda
Electronic boost controller.

Ross
 
I think he meant its a bit pricey at £180 plus not in the UK. You can get them for £135 buy it now on ebay. As said though its deff a requirement, I also have one on my 1242 mpi turbo cinq with an AFR gauge.
 
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Sorry I didnt really look at the listing, I didnt see it comes with the gauge!!
Thats not too bad a price really.

You dont really need an AFR gauge. The AFR comes up on the laptop while you are tuning megasquirt. I only fitted an AFR in case something goes wrong and the fuel leans right out.

I bought my wideband kit on its own to get me going and got the gauge later once it was all working ok.
 
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jamie86 said:
would fit an intercooler definately and also an oilcooler...

Not sure for definate if you have the space never fitted mine :eek: but if you get a Punto GT oil and inetercooler the oil bolts to the back of it (chris (blu) may of find out by now)

Yes you will need a FCD and would recommend new pump and regulator also didn't have one on mine but it does no and apparently is much better now (y)
Click to expand...

Going back a bit on the thread but only just found this one so bear with me.
Yep theres plenty of room there to hang the oil cooler off the back of the punto GT IC as it is on the punto but plenty of room to put it alongside as well as on Aarons old imola cinq.

On fueling side i think on of the reasons this tub has been so reliable is the standard injector is setup to run between 2 parameters (can't remember but think they are between 0.8 & 1.2 bar). Meaning some of the cars that have been converted have been running at the lower end of this window and thus have been running lean. Having spoke with aaron about it we kinda decided mine must be at the higher end and thus not had such an issue with underfuelling as some. When i got the car it ran just fine but spluttered at bit at higher revs, but i've put this down to the pump being 96k miles old and has been turbo'd for some time, being low boost originally.
When i changed my pump (now one from a Coop 20VT) i have put in a regulator in before the split to the 2nd injector (thanks for the diagram btw aaron) so the 2nd injector is running 2.5bar rising to 3bar(ish) on boost. It is an idea to put in a guage to measure the standard one which can be adjusted with a small allen key, but because mines never had an issue with fuelling i've just left it.
 
Not any gauge will fit Slinky Cinq. Most are for narrowband lambda's which are as good as disco lights. For that LC-1 kit you need a innovate gauge whether it be the air/fuel one or the XD-16 gauge as i have.

Ross
 
The XD-16 is a nice gauge, and with some of the other innovate stuff, if a really fantastic multifunction gauge. It also supports logging etc.

The one linked in the eBay auction is the pretty basic readout with none of the fancy stuff.

Pretty much any AFR gauge should do the job though....if it's a narrowband gauge, you just set the LC-1 to NB output on whatever output you linked it to.

Even use a multimeter if you really wanted :idea:

However for ease of use, guaranteed compatibility, etc. the innovate guages are the best.

I won't be having one in mine. As long as i can log it, and MS knows the AFR, that will do for me.

I got mine from an authorized UK distributor via eBay..can't remember how much now, but was a good price (y)

To cut costs if money is tight, get the gauge later ;) The WB is a must though and far cheaper than an engine rebuild :D :D

Also if going MS route, consider a knock sensor and circuit. I got the circuit from canada for just under £40....very worthwhile!

Kristian
 
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yep, something like that would also work.

the XD-16 is best of both as it has a moving "dial" and AFR numerical readout.....but i think i'd rather the "dial" than the numerical readout of the cheaper innovate dial, as its more visual....you don't have to convert AFR readings in your head to know if they are good or bad, and the scale/sensitivity of the gauge can be adjusted by the LC1 anyway (y)

Kristian
 
There honestly is no point in looking at the narrowband. It will just flip from one to the other constantly. The gauge you have shown brooky, shows lean, rich and stoich. Its a narrowband i believe. Wideband always has a numerical output along with a "dial" as kritip mentions.

Just one thing tho, dont get a knock sensor. It will cost you more in mapping, than getting a new engine would. They have to be fined tuned to the harmonics of the engine, so that if "knocking" or "det" occurs, it knows the difference. Otherwise its just a useless sensor. I did look at getting one in the coupe, and could get a great price on a well known brand, but in the end its just not gonna be worth it.

Also something to remember if buying second hand. A wideband lambda sensor has to be replaced every 10k i believe. So factor that in when buying a second hand unit, as it may be on its last legs, give you incorrect readings and then you need to spend x amount replacing.

Ross
 
kritip said:
If your mapping yourself though, the extra time is of no consequence. The circuit I bought was tuned to the number of cylinders and cc of the block, so hopefully will work ok. Note I haven't tried it yet though, it may be pants lol

Kristian
Click to expand...

Its unlikely that it will be an effective tool im afraid.

Ross
 
it is that *that* difficult to set up a tune a knock sensor. given that knock is audible, when you are setting the sensor - if it detects knock, and you cannot hear it through the tube you've got pointing at your engine block.. then its not set right.

onto AFR displays, i use a HP Nightflight gauge. It is similar to what has been posted. It is a "narrowband gauge". all this means is that the voltage range it accepts is between 0 and 1v, not 0 and 5v like a wideband signal. However, it does not matter, the LC1 has two analog outputs. You set one to output between 0 and 5v (for the ECU) and the other to 0 and 1v (for the gauge).

Just because it is being display on an NB gauge, does not make it a NB readout. It is still WB.
 
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