Technical Stilo 1.9jtd acceleration dead for a few seconds

[B0yCk]

I came back here, because an error reappeared: P0704 - Clutch signal (picture attached)

i erased this error few weeks ago, and now on a fast scan on my freetime i saw it again

how to solve? any ideea?

 

[Shadeyman]

Check the switch at the top of the clutch pedal, there may be a loose connection or the switch itself may have come loose.

 

[B0yCk]

Hello, in order to not open another thread, i will post here.

I have made a 'morning' test about my EGR (measure his working value in % with EcuScan).

So, i think i;ve selected what it should be selected, and the procent is showed in the attached picture. In movement, the value changes to 1% and remains at 1% until i put the car on still(and it rises up to maximum 46-47%).

I think this is not good, i do not know how to interpret this.

 

[Peat]

Symptoms are exactly the same as when the brake light switch is out of calibration.
See guides above to re-cal.

 

[B0yCk]

Peat, i have a new brake switch, no more dead acceleration, just posting my today test of my EGR value and my observation about the test.

Just expecting answers like: "clean and it wil work, or replace or something else."

 

[B0yCk]

Just cleaned the EGR, and no result, still to 45% of his rate of working, on FEcuScan

 

[sussexa]

what conditions is it at 45% ? this sounds normal if its operating say at idle or coming off throttle, if you select desired and actual airflow and egr % and let idle then rev car you should see egr go from open to close(mine stops at 4%) and the desired and actual airflow should rise together if say your egr went to 4%, desired airflow went to say 500mg and actual airflow lags behind say 300mg id say your egr is sticking open if its within 50mg id say normal.
and while your on fes you can select fuel level and see if the signal fluctuates as your gauge does , if it does look to sender end problem if it doesnt look towards gauge end problem.

 

[B0yCk]

yes, 45% on idle , and 1% in movement. i read that the value should be around 99-100%.(maybe i do not know correctly)

and the fuel level indicated in FES in % , fluctuates depending of the fuel gauge needle

 

[sussexa]

just did a few measurements to confirm egr operation.(but mine is 16v so values will vary)
from cold the egr was operating at 28-30% and my desired air was about 375-400mg/i and actual air followed +/- 10mg/i and reving up drops egr% to 4% but only for a spike.
when warmed up say 5 mins idle
egr stayed closed and with desired air approx 520-540mg/i actual air of +/-15mg/i desired.
if reved at this point the egr would open approx 40% and then modulate for approx 70 seconds before it closes fully again.
will try to get a screen shot up later


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

regarding your fuel gauge id look to fuel sender then

 

[Mark20VT]

My car suffers from the non-acceleration dead spot on an intermitent basis. This is after I fitted new EGR, had a re-map and cleaned the MAF. I have no idea what is causing it, but it is nothing to do with brakes in my case.

 

[B0yCk]

Update about a power loss.

In ther 3rd gear , after 2000rpm ( push the acceleration pedal hard- the car reacts like a tank, but this around 3000rpm where it has a lag about 2 seconds, and then again pulls like a tank until the red line).

In the 2nd gear it;s OK, pulls like a train from 2000rpm to red line and pulls continuously.

My question is why doesn't pulls continuously in the 3rd gear too and has that lag around 3000rpm?

bad fuel? maf? i cleaned the egr .

PS: @sussexa i'm gone take a fes test like yours tomorrow .

 

[B0yCk]

a boost pressure test:
3rd gear, 4000rpm -> 2157 mbar maximum, and i know that should be around 2400mbar? am i right?

no image of the graphic

and again the test was difficult because that lag of power around 3000rpm.

 

[B0yCk]

i think i have a MAF dead or almost dead.

so no error on FES, but i made a test today with the MAF off, and the car works much better and softer and also no more lag between changing gears.

discovered some oil here

 

[Shadeyman]

i think i have a MAF dead or almost dead.

so no error on FES, but i made a test today with the MAF off, and the car works much better and softer and also no more lag between changing gears.

discovered some oil here

Disconnecting a faulty MAF sensor usually improves the cars performance so it looks like you've found your problem.

 

[B0yCk]

New MAF on my car since 10 minutes ago, the car has now more acceleration under 2000rpm.
no time and space to test that jerky working.
so, i replaced it with a new one(i had this ocassion, very cheap, Bosch, original, throught a friend)
so, i will post the old maf dirt, but i came with a question: should i change that maf case too? i changed only the sensor, and i have too the case of the new one, but i didn;t put it, just switched the sensors

 

[Davren]

Bosch only supply the MAF sensor complete with the housing.

 

[B0yCk]

i have the housing for the new one, but i changed only the sensor, keeping the old housing on the car.

my question was that should i change that housing too? or changing the sensor is enough.

and where can i read in FES if the MAF works ok?

 

[Shadeyman]

i have the housing for the new one, but i changed only the sensor, keeping the old housing on the car.

my question was that should i change that housing too? or changing the sensor is enough.

Its ok to replace just the MAF Sensor and use the original Sensor Body, just check there is no debris stuck in and around the mesh.

 

[B0yCk]

i'll go now to the car in 5' to do that.

should i disconnect the battery minus terminal? and should i do something to "calibrate" the new MAF?

 

[Shadeyman]

I always remove the negative lead from the battery when messing with a cars electronics just to be on the safe side but I'm not sure it would do any harm if you left it connected.

Leaving the negative lead disconnected over night will reset the ECU and allow the car to "start from scratch". Allow it to tick over for 5 minutes before driving.