Technical Rear Light Cluster Issue

[Murraymint]

Just had a look through mt photo collection, and sorry but I didn't take particularly useful photos.
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That’s perfect mate. Thank you very much

 

[s130]

As I thought the Black wire and soldered inside wire to metal bus rail is the negative full ground return for the whole of the rear light cluster.

So with side lights, brake lights, indicators and fog lamp all running at the same time the current going through the rear *single* pin connector is going to be challenging. For some cars it might not be an issue but for others it could. Basic problem in my view is that the designer underrated the maximum power load AND how long that load could be in operation for. Add age, contact oxidation, etc. then pin to socket impediance will increase resulting in power loss and heating in the connector.

 

[2FiatsRon]

Such goodwill gestures are often reliant on having the car serviced at a dealer.
Car sales are low profit, and generally cars are very reliable, meaning the dealer has little work to do. Insisting on dealer servicing to maintain warranty, and any later out-of-warranty payments, helps the dealers with more work and greater profitability. Without profitable dealers, there are no new car sales.

One way to help prevent the problem of connectors melting in the rear lamps is not to hold the car on the foot brake for longer than needed. If you think you are going to be halted for more than a few seconds apply the parking brake and release the foot brake. This will prevent heat build up in the rear lamps. My car a 2016 500X auto using this method has not had a problem after 63,000 miles.

 

[Murraymint]

One way to help prevent the problem of connectors melting in the rear lamps is not to hold the car on the foot brake for longer than needed. If you think you are going to be halted for more than a few seconds apply the parking brake and release the foot brake. This will prevent heat build up in the rear lamps. My car a 2016 500X auto using this method has not had a problem after 63,000 miles.

Interesting, will let the wife know. But good tip.

 

[danbosy]

Just had a look through mt photo collection, and sorry but I didn't take particularly useful photos.
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Hi Arekp,
I’m having exactly the same problem, I have ordered already the light bulb holder+plus a new TE connectivity but it won’t arrive ASAP so I wanted to use your method in the meantime but I wanted to ask what cable are you using as an extension before I start doing anything.

 

[arekp]

Pretty sure it was a 1mm wire.

 

[s130]

Rear light cluster with Side, Brake and Indicators is made of three 21W bulbs. Two for side & brake (modulated as both work in parallel) and one for indicator.

So 3 x 21 = 63 Watts. Say 65W to be conservative. That a 12V is 5.5A (approx). So you need a wire capable of running a 6 Amps continuous. As the wire will not be bundled in a loom with the other wires then you need not de-rate it. That said 10Amp high current density wire is now available with smaller cross sectional areas so I would go for that, i.e. 10Amp rating.

 

[AlexTGates]

Just had a look through mt photo collection, and sorry but I didn't take particularly useful photos.
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Hi All,
Suffering the same issue on our 66 plate 500X these pictures have been invaluable in resolving the issue, thank you very much.

What I will say in addition to the above however is that there is a dedicated pin half way down the board for ground loop and can attach with a female crimp spade connector (I reinforced the joint post crimp with solder) rather than just a soldered joint to the board which doesn't like vibration.
You have to remove a bit of the tail light side plastic to allow the wire enough room to not get crushed / sit too close to bulb when re-assembled.
I drilled a small 3mm hole for the 1.5mm/sq wire I used on the underside to help prevent water ingress and then packed out with a couple of pieces of heat shrink to better protect insulation from any vibration

Externally I routed up towards the original connector and cut the ground and terminated both sides with more spade connectors with weather proof boots.

Upon trialling the repair the lights are noticably brighter than the non repaired side... so I might have to do this on the other side too...

Thanks,
AlexTGates