Having given Heighway a spray with the Lanoguard, I can confirm that it looks like it does what it says on the tin...
It has a reputation that it requires heating prior to spraying, in order to not clog the applicator gun but I didn't heat my goo - although it was in the house for a few days prior, rather than in the garage, and the weather was fine (ambient c. 8 ~ 10C).
The applicator bottle itself looks like a slightly tricker version of a regular spray bottle... but I noticed it atomises a lot more than, say, a recycled window cleaner bottle etc. I didn't have problems with it clogging, even overnight.. although I cleaned the tube and nozzle/head with Fairy liquid before I put it away.
The goo is quite thin and creeps everywhere, so no worries about spraying it onto seams etc.. it works its way along crevices and into voids, which seems like a good thing. It drips a bit when it collects at drip points.. so I put a sheet/my body underneath to keep the driveway clean.
It "dries"... although this is my least favourite aspect of the product, although getting under the car without ramps to apply it, runs it close. Lanoguard says leave the car in the fresh air for 2-3 days.. so I left mine on the driveway for a whole week. However it was still "greasy" even after 2 weeks. Anything you'll need to handle (suspension, or even if you're crawling under the car) feels greasy (or waxy, I suppose) as if it was covered in regular grease, and dirt does stick to it. Lano' will make working on the car a lot messier, I suspect.
After a month, the wax feels more like candle wax, in that it is "soft" but not wet. I wouldn't fancy that it will stay unmoved if you grab something coated in it but it doesn't attract grit and dirt any more, which is handy since Lanoguard say you can spray "everything" (apart from the brakes), and having "sticky" on CV gaitors etc. that then catches grit, does not seem to qualify as a "result ".
I also put some down my inner wings, since 2ltrs is loads (I used approx. 1ltr for the whole car) but I noticed that since the wings get warm, from engine heat, the wax becomes soft again even after it's nominally dried. I'd probably try to keep it off any warm surfaces next time, just to prevent them getting soft > sticky > gritty.
To my mind the goo is better suited to box sections and cavities, and the underside of the car as long as you don't crawl around under it. Certainly nooks and crannies and brackets and jacking points etc. can all benefit. Anything "visible" or that you have to handle is more a matter of opinion. In a lot of respects the sheep dip is not much different from regular grease.. and people don't routinely coat their cars in grease for a reason.
I'll keep an eye on it, to see how we get on. I would recommend it for its water repellence (although it's early days, obviously) and it seems as though it will last well, particularly in the under-body nooks.
I've posted some photos of the X so you can see what it looks like, The colour is slightly yellow (like sheep pee) but it doesn't adversely affect the appearance of painted surfaces... they just take on a matt waxy appearance. You can see on the trailing arm that there's a fingerprint in the surface, so you can get an idea of how it handles. In the suspension photo you can see that on the lower wheel arch, the goo is still wet (this photo was +7 days).
Ralf S.
I will photograph it as I go about my merry business I'm expecting a lot of filth and swearing but I want keep the car till I retire so I don't want a rotten subframe to spoil that, i am a glutton for punishment but I genuinely love my little panda
