General New 4x4 Cross Underseal - Dinitrol v Lanoguard v Waxoyl

[WitleyPanda]

That's an impressive amount of time, is that via using the Bilt Hamber product? I don't mind having to re apply a coat of something say every 10 years but having to do it yearly is a bit of a joke if you ask me.

Done with various products over the life. Not done annually/ bi- annually on the outside. Initially would have been done with old school products, POR chassis paint and waxoyl in the box section. When the cost of these seemed to leap, I decided to do some proper research into what coatings were used in commercial/marine/ extreme environments. Came across the Bilt Hamber and various high loaded zine paints/coatings. So when it was at the early 20s age went the whole hog. Week off work, large compressor, 50kg shot media and went front to back. Hence the comment about preparing and base coatings. If the under layers are going to peel and already have corrosion cells behind, the top coating of what ever is compromised or have reduced protection. The problem with box sections is once they start to corrode unless you cut large access holes you never get them clean, but at least a wax, any wax slightly more permanent. From that exercise I doubt that just a soft wax would have given another ten years of life? I did top up the internals of the box chassis, but external left it alone. Chassis was eventually replaced with a galvanised one. Obviously this option not open on a Panda, but I am trying to see if I could fabricate a galvanised sump guard with minimal tooling.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I am grateful to all the comments on here re experiences. Im going to do the first one with Bilt hamber products and see how it goes. For what its worth I used up some spay hammerite on ours in 2020 and its done well. Springs still look very good. I expected it to fail on them.

 

[The Panda Nut]

A long time ago (so things may have changed) my late mum's Renault was Dinitrol protected. But, as @lambou1d says above, it forms a skin which can crack and peel, letting water in behind. This led to some fairly spectacular rust forming in the front wings that I always said would not have happened if left as from the factory and the mud washed out now and again. Car bodies weren't galvanised then, but are now, and that offers by far the best protection to the bodywork (including box sections). However, the thin black paint on the suspension parts (especially the rear beam), and the 4x4 under tray, is appalling and there, some from of non-setting coating (wax/lanolin or similar), reapplied now and again would seem to be an excellent precaution to take. I plan to do mine in the summer when everything's warm and dry.

Its warm and dry now! Ha ha.

 

[WitleyPanda]

Its warm and dry now! Ha ha.

All change by the weekend

 

[Big gerry]

I'll be getting my new Cross 4x4 undersealed to protect it long term. I got Dinitrol done on my RS Megane last year which was 6 years old at the time. Only the rear beam was a bit crusty and they treated any corrosion before applying the Dinitrol then doing the cavity wax. I'd read Dinitrol was overally a better product hence I chose it over Waxoyl.

Now someone recently mentioned Lanoguard to me so I'm interested to see how this compares to Dinitrol? What experiences do people have here?

Hi lanoguard was easy applied but dosnt last long enough wax oil I didn’t like either I was recommended old engine oil it’s a bit of a mess to spray on but lasts forever it drys up after a couple of days and it’s like a hard shell would you believe it soaks into the metal