Technical New 2011 Fiat 500 clutch won't disengage

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Technical New 2011 Fiat 500 clutch won't disengage

ShiftyGeezer

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Feb 26, 2025
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Location
Surrey
Hi all. Had to replace my old Ford Ka and decided a red Fiat 500 would be a cool car to have. A very local seller happened to have one, so I bought it at a good price. At the time, the clutch was really stiff but I booked it in to my garage on 6th March for a health check.

Well, since then it's gotten a bit rough. Changing gear has been fine but I've sometimes struggled with clutch control, unsure of the biting point and not comfortably matching revs. At first I put this down to a new car feel, given I've only driven Ford Ka's before. I've only driven 2 trips in this motor, 40 miles total. Yesterday, the clutch seemed looser. However, at a busy junction, stop/start traffic, I stalled a couple of times and then couldn't fully disengage the engine. Took the back routes home and the clutch seemed to work, but reversing into the garage, the biting point seemed to slip lower and lower until again I floored the clutch pedal but it wasn't fully disengaging.

I've search the web and this forum threw up a few similar experiences. I just checked the Clutch Fluid level and it's full. It's quite a dark colour. I also tried changing gear and I can move the stick without pressing the clutch pedal. Is that supposed to be possible? I thought the gear stick was supposed to be physically locked in place. Next step is probably a fluid replacement, but I'm not up for bleeding it. Is there something I can do to get it good for taking to the garage (10 mile drive)? Is it worth replacing the clutch fluid in the reservoir without a proper bleed? Is there a trick like pumping the clutch that'll get it 'good enough' to make the journey?
 
Year
2011
Mileage
60000
Is there a way I can fudge it long enough to drive it to the garage?
IF your able to take both the battery and its tray off the car you will see the slave cylinder sitting on top of the gearbox! get someone else to sit in the car and pump the clutch pedal whilst they are doing that spray a load of wd 40 over the push rod thats moving in and out and over the leaver pivot point on gear box if that makes it feel a little better then coat the pushrod with some grease put back together and try it it might free things up enough to get you to a workshop
 
The slave does sound suspect.. but you could also have a shagged clutch.

60k is in the Death Zone for 500 clutches.. they're small and the cars get used around town a lot... so the clutch does plenty of work.


As above, lube up the slave push-rod *and* the end of the rod. The end of the rod should fit into a nylon cup located in the release arm... but that can go AWOL so your rod might be grinding into the metal of the arm. Also lube the release arm pivot... although in my experience these never seize up.

Then bleed the clutch circuit. The nipple lets the fluid out but it doesn't unscrew, despite (I think) having what looks like spanner flats moulded to it. Instead there's a a recessed screw/hex next to it, that opens the flow. Bleed it like brakes...

If that doesn't help much (esp. if it still feels heavy) then I would book a clutch swap. The clutch should be really light when it's new.


Ralf S.
 
Can you drive it without a clutch. Short answer is yes, but the caveat is that if you get it wrong you could end up needing a gearbox or having a crash.

Warm the engine up and switch off, then start it up on first gear. It will move immediately so make sure nothing is coming!

By matching engine revs and road speed you can go up and down the gearbox without a clutch, changing down is a lot harder than changing up.

Look well ahead as you will need to switch the engine off if you stop. Anticipating light and junctions helps as does using quiet roads at a quiet time of day.

I've driven many miles like this without a clutch but it's not something I would recommend to a stranger.
 
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