Technical Corroded axle advisory on mot. I looked. Wish I hadn't. :o/

[spidermania]

Grease is cheaper, which is good. I'm thinking of putting used oil on the harder to smear in bits, then grease on top.

Tricky proposition. The main problem in this scenario is trying to do it all on the cheap, understandable. In a perfect scenario we have the vehicle in a garage on a proper lift. Not crawling underneath it working in braille. Your oil won't last so it's fruitless and your grease idea can even be corrosive if it gets into the wrong areas with fly-off. However it all looks good on paper as they say.

As mention above just get it good enough for MOT. Don't lose sleep over it or let it morph into a psychosis.

 

[sherbsville]

Tricky proposition. The main problem in this scenario is trying to do it all on the cheap, understandable. In a perfect scenario we have the vehicle in a garage on a proper lift. Not crawling underneath it working in braille. Your oil won't last so it's fruitless and your grease idea can even be corrosive if it gets into the wrong areas with fly-off. However it all looks good on paper as they say.

As mention above just get it good enough for MOT. Don't lose sleep over it or let it morph into a psychosis.

lol it's starting to morph into psychosis lol. Thing is I'm pisces, and therefore INCAPABLE of making a decision. If the waxoil is worth it, I don't mind doing it. I want to do it as properly as I can. I want it to last as long as poss, and if that means fancy spray stuff, then I will do it. I figure if I'm crawling under, I will do the best I possibly can, first time. It's not about the mot, it's about giving bubbles a long and enjoyable life. Especially as the poor baby has to deal with the bumps and mud at the allotment.

 

[GettinBetter]

thankyou. I really should use some while cutting the connifers and stuff, as that wrecks my eyes, so getting some for this might make me wear em for hedge trimming.

narrator: it wont.

Seriously, you should. I've spent many hours in a clinic on our local trading estate in years past, having metal particles removed.
The clinic was only five minutes walk, and rarely many if any people there. Then spending the rest of the day with a patch on til the anesthetic wore off.

It was easy then, nowdays you can wait hours/days to get a 'possibly' professional to deal with your problem.

The fact that I have to wear glasses makes it a little easier, but I have had some near misses with flying debris getting past them.
Just keep your eyes closed for an hour and see how you manage. It's no joke.

 

[GettinBetter]

.... I want to do it as properly as I can. I want it to last as long as poss, and if that means fancy spray stuff, then I will do it. I figure if I'm crawling under, I will do the best I possibly can, first time.....

This isn't a one off job, the elements are continually attacking the underside of your vehicle. It is a annual job, or longer depending on weather, terrain, solution used, and climate in your area. You take a look periodically, and assess whether it needs doing or not. But don't assume you can do it once and forget about it forever. You need to stay vigilant.

 

[spidermania]

I figure if I'm crawling under, I will do the best I possibly can, first time.

Your attention to detail is commendable and to be applauded. What I hope to convey to you is, it may not be good enough, because you simply cannot meet that standard crawling around underneath on your back.
As you mention above, do the best you can with what you have to work with and then walk away from it and enjoy it.

 

[GettinBetter]

.....As you mention above, do the best you can with what you have to work with and then walk away from it and enjoy it.

Exactly, hence my use of old oil, (& white spirit which evaporates but ensures the oil is sprayable and penetrates) in a spray gun.
I do the vehicle when I take ownership, and localised areas as I maintain. So if I'm doing any work on the front, the front underside gets a liberal coating when I've finished working.
Takes about 3 or 4 mins, say 10 including filling gun.

It collects a layer of dust, which helps protect from stone chips, and a I normaly spray the next coat straight over the top. Next time you come to undo any nuts/bits etc, its a piece of cake.

 

[sherbsville]

Seriously, you should. I've spent many hours in a clinic on our local trading estate in years past, having metal particles removed.
The clinic was only five minutes walk, and rarely many if any people there. Then spending the rest of the day with a patch on til the anesthetic wore off.

It was easy then, nowdays you can wait hours/days to get a 'possibly' professional to deal with your problem.

The fact that I have to wear glasses makes it a little easier, but I have had some near misses with flying debris getting past them.
Just keep your eyes closed for an hour and see how you manage. It's no joke.

Thankyou. I wear glasses, so always think it'll stop bits of conifer. They stop the big chunks, not the stoopid dust. I will defo wear em for the rust tho. I used to be an a&e nurse, so you think I'd be more careful when hedge trimming, but I always think about it when I'm done.

 

[sherbsville]

Exactly, hence my use of old oil, (& white spirit which evaporates but ensures the oil is sprayable and penetrates) in a spray gun.
I do the vehicle when I take ownership, and localised areas as I maintain. So if I'm doing any work on the front, the front underside gets a liberal coating when I've finished working.
Takes about 3 or 4 mins, say 10 including filling gun.

It collects a layer of dust, which helps protect from stone chips, and a I normaly spray the next coat straight over the top. Next time you come to undo any nuts/bits etc, its a piece of cake.

oooooh, how much oil to white spirit pls? I have one of those pump sprayer things for the garden. A little one. I could use that on the bits I can't reach. Do you think it'd go through it? I will grease the rest.

I will check every year when I change the oil from now on, but I will try to check every 6 months so I can look at other stuff under there too.

To clarify, the plate thing on the wheel. Can I put stuff on the side I can see? With the bolts? Should I avoid stuff going in between the disc plate things, or doesn't it matter?

Thankyou

 

[Bonefish Blues]

If there are components you want to protect then aluminum foil is excellent to keep stray spray away and removes just as easily afterwards.

 

[GettinBetter]

oooooh, how much oil to white spirit pls? ......

I use about 60 oil to 40, it not exact, and whatever makes it easy to spray.

....To clarify, the plate thing on the wheel. Can I put stuff on the side I can see? With the bolts? Should I avoid stuff going in between the disc plate things......

Yes, its vitally important to not get oil on your discs and pads, or you'll have no brakes, til it burns off. Not something you want to entertain. Not worth putting it on the exhaust either.

For the wheel nuts and disc area, brush on some copper grease. Be aware that centripetal force will take any excess grease outwards so don't get carried away near the disc. I always grease the bleed nipple too, again when it needs to be undone, it'll be easy.

 

[John202020]

How long are you keeping the car, 3 or 4 years? Then just leave it alone and don't bother, it's not that bad? If keeping for the remaining life of car then you're better off using the correct treatment and time to do right?

 

[rmjbn1]

Yes, its vitally important to not get oil on your discs and pads, or you'll have no brakes, til it burns off. Not something you want to entertain. Not worth putting it on the exhaust either.

I'm fairly certain when OP says disc plate things she's referring to number 5 in her photos, the backing plate for the drum brake (correct me if I'm wrong):

@sherbsville you don't need to worry about these either way.

The drums don't need treating as they're not going to fall apart from rust.

But it doesn't matter at all if you get grease on them. The braking surfaces are safely tucked up inside the drums.

GettinBetter is absolutely right about keeping oil and grease away from all exposed braking surfaces such as front disc brakes and pads (and inside the drums).

 

[rmjbn1]

These are the spring pans you need to focus on:


Coat them all over, inside and out.

I would argue the rest doesn't really matter. The axle is unlikely to snap anywhere else. If the coil springs rust they can be easily replaced.

There is a range of different options on here, they're all good. It only depends which approach you'd prefer, but I think jrk's and GettinBetter's solutions might be best for you as they're quick and easy.

I can reach mine on a Panda without lifting it, maybe a 500 is lower, you might want to run your rear wheels up on boards for some extra clearance.

 

[chris3234]

Definitely need to focus on the spring pans as that where they snap

Ideally bottom shock boots removing and axle swinging down to allow the spring to be removed for access to clean and treat inside fully

 

[Bonefish Blues]

Could have been worse like ours

To be fair, not everyone's car has been parked at the bottom of the ocean for 70 years like yours clearly has

 

[Bonefish Blues]

These are the spring pans you need to focus on:
View attachment 453606
View attachment 453607
Coat them all over, inside and out.

I would argue the rest doesn't really matter. The axle is unlikely to snap anywhere else. If the coil springs rust they can be easily replaced.

There is a range of different options on here, they're all good. It only depends which approach you'd prefer, but I think jrk's and GettinBetter's solutions might be best for you as they're quick and easy.

I can reach mine on a Panda without lifting it, maybe a 500 is lower, you might want to run your rear wheels up on boards for some extra clearance.

Agree. OP, if you do only one thing, do this bit.

 

[sherbsville]

If there are components you want to protect then aluminum foil is excellent to keep stray spray away and removes just as easily afterwards.

Thankyou, that's a great idea.

Aaaand YES! lol number 5 is exactly what I meant. i think you should be concerned you are so good at understanding what I mean. Thankyou for translating!

I'm fairly certain when OP says disc plate things she's referring to number 5 in her photos, the backing plate for the drum brake (correct me if I'm wrong):
View attachment 453601
@sherbsville you don't need to worry about these either way.

 

[vexorg]

I'd say just common sense, i can see a wire brush going wild and ripping up rubber and plastic.

I'm surprised mot inspectors allow wet coating, brake lines get a warning if you treat them, why should the axle be different, could be hiding something sinister.

Personally I'd buy a new axle if i was concerned enough to treat it. They are known to be rubbish, so just delaying the inevitable.

 

[John202020]

Re looking at the pictures( what's up with the view figs?) unless you're keeping for some time, whilst yes you can go wild either treat just the spring pans or leave all alone, especially if you're not confident?

 

[jrkitching]

I'm surprised mot inspectors allow wet coating

It's not a safety issue unless it's hiding a defect.

They are known to be rubbish, so just delaying the inevitable

It's not inevitable; if you protect it against corrosion, it will last the life of the car.

If you don't give it additional protection, you'll likely have to replace it.

It's either a £5 tube of grease now, or a £1000 axle replacement (if not doing the work yourself) at some point in the future. I know which I'd choose.