I used to get a lot of rust in my eyes, buy some safety glasses, they only cost a few pounds.cool, so new fear unlocked after looking at safety goggles.![]()
thankyou. I really should use some while cutting the connifers and stuff, as that wrecks my eyes, so getting some for this might make me wear em for hedge trimming.I used to get a lot of rust in my eyes, buy some safety glasses, they only cost a few pounds.
You won't be doing any grinding for this task, you'll want to avoid oil and rust getting into your eyes, nothing fatal, just uncomfortable.
This is what I used https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hammerite-...414713922-B004NMLCGM-&hvexpln=74&gad_source=1omg thankyou all soooooooooo much. I need to re read it all a few times to absorb the info. Taking bits off it really scares me, also I don't know how hard physically it is to undo stuff, but I think it is something I should try down the line. I know years ago I had a car and the springs rusted, so they should come off, but idk if I can.
For now I need to get the rust off, and coat it with something. So the consensus seems to be:
wire brush and screwdriver to get the gunk off, but get a brush to go on the drill, as my arms will fall off if i try by hand. (Which I was gonna try lol).
Maaaaaaaaybe use a rust remover on bits I can't reach? The springs maybe? I know this is stupid, as never used it, but if i do, does that need to be rinsed off? If I don't take em off, how to I clean the remover stuff off? Edit: Thankyou, asnwered right away. I need a convertor, yay!
Paint or spray with something that doesn't harden. A specially made product, grease, or used oil. I'm gonna do an oil change soon (eeeek), so will have oil. I just bought some lith moly grease. Is that ok? I didn't know there were different types of grease until the other day.
Also, as a total novice, do I need to lift the car or take the wheels off? Both things scare me, but I bought a lifting set from halfords, so have the stuff. Just not the nerve.
Thankyou all so much for all the responses.
I think I would advise any novice not to get under a car on stands without the supervision of someone with experience of doing it safely.as a total novice, do I need to lift the car or take the wheels off?
There's enough room (just) to do this; I'd suggest putting an old duvet on the ground, both to improve comfort and catch any mess.To a novice I would say leave the car on the ground
There was an advisory on mine for rear spring corrosion. I took a squint and it was clearly superficial. Some aerosol grease spray later and the MOT Tester has not found the need to mention it on either test since.Grease, oil, or any wax based non-hardening proprietary product, will be absorbed into the existing rust and that will be sufficient to protect the solid metal underneath.
What's to mention?There was an advisory on mine for rear spring corrosion. I took a squint and it was clearly superficial. Some aerosol grease spray later and the MOT Tester has not found the need to mention it on either test since.
Yes, it is OK to only lift one side of the car, that won't cause any damage.Is it safe to only raise one side of the car with the axle stands? Will it hurt the car? That seems safer, right?
1&2 are indeed plastic, connected to the fuel tank. Leave well alone.The ? and erm also scare me. Can i go near it all with a wire brush?
You better not either !I still wont do it
Do you have any thick solid wood boards or planks?
So you need to be absolutely certain it's safe
You better not either !
I've followed your thread since it posted. First of all that is 'surface rust', meaning it's not bad at all. Look around your area and find a local yob and give 'em 20 quid to give it brush and spray with some rust oleum paint.
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yes, I have a drive. I have one random piece of railway sleeper, its not very big, as dad made me boxes for my strawberries from em, and put bits of em under the bench so it was easier for him to get up from it. I can see what random bits of wood dad had at the allotment. I don't think theres anything wide enough there. There is also a corner o' mystery in the garage, that has loads of random bits of wood. I think there's a solid wood kitchen cupboard that might work. I don't think it's thick enough from memory. I might be able to stack something under it.Do you have a drive, off the road?
Or access to any firm, stable, preferably level ground you could use to work?
I've worked on my car at my workplace when I was living in a flat. Workmates thought it was hilarious of course :/
Do you have any thick solid wood boards or planks?
I have some scaffolding boards I place behind the rear wheels and reverse onto when I just need a little extra room.
I've been getting under cars since I was a teen and it still scares me. And maybe that's for the best - it's a dangerous thing to do, things can and do go wrong and people get hurt.
So you need to be absolutely certain it's safe, and that only comes with experience. Sometimes I'll jack up the car, decide I'm not happy with it and start again. Sometimes the trolley jack doesn't roll smoothly or starts leaning.
Yes, it is OK to only lift one side of the car, that won't cause any damage.
The important thing is knowing what to watch for, where to support the car's weight without damaging anything, carefully transferring weight from the jack to the stands.
I would only put the car on stands when necessary, for working on brakes/suspension etc.
Otherwise I would say it's safer to only lift it as much as you need to for access. Driving the wheels up on to something solid would always be my preference.
That' brilliant, thankyou!Am I the only one looking at this and thinking a small 2-3" or so lift will do it? Park on the planks/thick plank. Handbrake hard on. Car in gear. Chocks in front and behind front wheels, just for every good & reassuring measure because you're understandably nervous. Reach under with brush and scrub away - paying particular attenion to parts e,r, and m. Use spray grease with a nozzle or something like this good ole' product that's been around for donks:
Job will be a good (enough) one.