Technical correct antifreeze/coolant for mk2

Currently reading:
Technical correct antifreeze/coolant for mk2

Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
5,297
Points
1,303
Location
In PandaLand
Just a quick one......

Had a search but as usual lots of irrelevant stuff came up :(

So as the last owner had helpfully topped up the coolant with about a litre of water I think it's a good idea in this chilly spell to drain down and refill the system with appropriate mix.

Leading me to the question which mix to go for? Never seen parrotflu on the shelves so what's the best thing for her please.
I'm even planning on using deionised water:p

Looking forward to a nice drive out in Fizzle just don't wanna end up with a frozen block of ice up front :)

Thanks everyone :)
 
Paraflu is definitely the best - you want the blue one, not pink. Trouble is the expense! If you've ever seen the insides of a 30 year old car exclusively run with Paraflu you know it's worth the extra - no corrosion and no sludge build up!

Unless you know that yours has been run on Paraflu just go for a decent brand of blue antifreeze & mix 50/50. Drawback of Paraflu in a dodgy system not used to it, is that it can cause leaks as it clears out the crud.

If you want Paraflu you need to go to a dealer, or try Ricambio. About £8 a litre last time I got it - £2 for Total's version, so you pays your money & takes your choice. (y)
 
Last edited:
Whats so special about Paraflu? Just normal coolant in a Fiat bottle isn't it, any car run using decent quality antifreeze that is changed when it should be will be just as corrosion and sludge free as one run with Paraflu. Antifreeze is often overlooked which is where the problems start.

You can use blue or red, blue will need changing after 2 years, red after 5, either is fine, red just costs a little bit more.
 
Red has organic inhibitors based on OAT I believe & is therefore not recommended for older Fiat's including the Panda.

No they aren't all the same - you'd have to study Selenia's technical fact sheets to work out how though. They all meet some minimum standards, but not all are aiming for the same standard.

My Coupe still uses only Selenia Racing oil for a similar reason. My old Sisley at 126k makes do with anything decent though as it's probably past subtleties! (y)
 
This seems to be the standard technical info:

OAT corrosion inhibitors provide excellent long-term protection for aluminum and cast iron, but may not be the best choice for older cooling systems that have copper/brass radiators and heater cores. It depends on the formula.

There is also talk of problems with gaskets & seals.

Much like the ethanol problems in petrol by the sound of it - best to avoid and stick to the Fiat recommended formulation for long term peace of mind imo. Nothing I have seen recommends this for pre 2000 cars, so I'll stick with blue.

Maybe we should reconvene in 20 years and see what the result is. :idea:
 
Last edited:
Nothing I have seen recommends this for pre 2000 cars, so I'll stick with blue.

Yes, but the same engine has been used from mid 80's to date. This is what I'm getting at, no changes, so how is it fine in a mk3 Panda with 1108cc FIRE lump, but not a Selecta with the same 1108cc FIRE lump :confused:

I can understand perhaps the likes of the mk1 Panda engine, and pre 80's Fiats, but can't see the logic with the FIRE engined Panda's.
 
I found this info on the Selena site........

Optimal removal of heat from the engine combustion chamber.
Maximum protection against:
freezing (down to an outside temperature of -40°C)
the formation of scaling;
boiling in the summer months, in motorway pileups

No wonder it's so dear if it can survive motorway pileups :eek:
 
Yes, but the same engine has been used from mid 80's to date. This is what I'm getting at, no changes, so how is it fine in a mk3 Panda with 1108cc FIRE lump, but not a Selecta with the same 1108cc FIRE lump :confused:

I can understand perhaps the likes of the mk1 Panda engine, and pre 80's Fiats, but can't see the logic with the FIRE engined Panda's.

The water doesn't just go in the engine - a modern version won't have the same radiator, heater matrix, hoses & gaskets. Although it's the same basic engine it probably won't still be using exactly the same grade of materials inside the engine as my 1986 FIRE one did either, though it might of course!

No-one has a definitive answer but to be safe I follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

And I don't like the idea of waterless either whatever they claim about it......
 
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Attachments

  • $(KGrHqR,!p4FBpqLnhZnBQf8RiQImw~~60_35.JPG
    $(KGrHqR,!p4FBpqLnhZnBQf8RiQImw~~60_35.JPG
    7.2 KB · Views: 40
Anything you put in it will be better than it has now, don't go near Halfords unless you have a trade card, find a proper motor factors instead, should work out alot cheaper.

The Comma XStream G48 is actually green in colour, the same as normal blue stuff as far as I know though.

Blue is recommended but red is just as compatible imo, if it wasn't I would have two Pandas with no coolant and a big puddle on the floor. Anything you put in it will be better than it has now.

Have you checked to see what colour is actually is at the moment?
 
Back
Top