Technical B1001-13 fault help!

[SarahAck]

Issue with my fiat 500 (2010), bought privately so history unknown.

Car wouldn’t turn on with car/padlock image. Followed a few things on google about holding down buttons on the key randomly light went off and started (now I think this was a fluke) Drove to Halfords fitted new battery, lights all of happy days!

Drove 50/60 miles got fuel, car wouldn’t start, same padlock light. Towed home, put new Earth cable on, no difference.

local lad came with diagnostics, whilst we are talking and he’s setting up his equipment we realise light is off, car struck up fine (always the way!) he still plugged it in (see image) he followed the instructions to clear the code and observe.

1 weeks driving approx 110-150 miles . Light back on. I do not trust it at all and it’s stressing me out! I think I need an auto electrician to find a fault? Has anyone else had similar and able to resolve it themselves?

( I only have 1 key)

Much appreciated

 

[bugsymike]

What battery fitted at Halfords, one in key or engine starting battery as I noted on the diagnostic report it said battery voltage 10.2 volts which is definitely wrong/very low.
Needs checking!!!

 

[SarahAck]

What battery fitted at Halfords, one in key or engine starting battery as I noted on the diagnostic report it said battery voltage 10.2 volts which is definitely wrong/very low.
Needs checking!!!

Engine battery! Oh! I will get that checked thank you!

 

[John202020]

What does "key transponder " open circuit mean? Receiver faulty?

 

[SarahAck]

What does "key transponder " open circuit mean? Receiver faulty?

I don’t know hoping someone has had similar

 

[John202020]

As a guess I'd say the immobiliser transponder receiver has a faulty connection/is faulty?
This would explain the key symbol and cannot start car, key not recognised therfore won't allow to start? If it's intermittent that would also explain why it's fine one moment not the next?
Note the battery state in the key fob makes no difference in this case

 

[bugsymike]

Engine battery! Oh! I will get that checked thank you!

I don't know if your car has Stop/Start system, if so it should have a certain type of battery and there is a certain process involved in fitting.
Either way whenever I fitted a battery to a customers car, I always checked that the fault was actually the battery and fitted the correct one recommended for that model and I tested the cars charging system too , so as to ensure there was no other fault causing the problem.
Basically you could fit a hundred brand new batteries to a car but if the cars charging system isn't 100% then the car can still breakdown again.
The 10.2 volts in that diagnostic report must be corrected first as low battery voltage affects many things on a modern ECU controlled vehicle and is a major fault on the car.

 

[puntodeltathema]

I think I'd be checking the connections to the immobiliser/CODE receiver by the steering column key switch. Bottom half of steering column trim would need to be removed to allow this. Even if they look OK, unplugging and replugging any connectors a couple of times to "work" the contacts clean may be worth doing. Disconnect the battery before doing this.

Nick

 

[SarahAck]

It is not stop/start. Thank you, I will get the battery checked

 

[SarahAck]

I think I'd be checking the connections to the immobiliser/CODE receiver by the steering column key switch. Bottom half of steering column trim would need to be removed to allow this. Even if they look OK, unplugging and replugging any connectors a couple of times to "work" the contacts clean may be worth doing. Disconnect the battery before doing this.

Nick

Thanks Nick I will get my husband to do this

 

[SarahAck]

I’ve checked the battery and all ok, phew. We’ve had a look at the key and think it’s not the original, code cleared, opened key to have a look, key back in and problem back so we feel we’ve replicated the issue and it’s the key? Multiscan suggests this. I only have 1 key (we think that’s the issue) so can I just go to Timspons? Or am I needing a code from Fiat?

 

[bugsymike]

Just a point , if you say the battery is OK , why did the scan report show a voltage of 10.2 volt?
Who says the battery is OK and what did they test?
If battery in good order voltage should read at least 12.5 volts and with engine running I would expect to see roughly 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
If it is showing that now great, but what has been changed since the 10.2 volt reading on the scan?

 

[SarahAck]

Just a point , if you say the battery is OK , why did the scan report show a voltage of 10.2 volt?
Who says the battery is OK and what did they test?
If battery in good order voltage should read at least 12.5 volts and with engine running I would expect to see roughly 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
If it is showing that now great, but what has been changed since the 10.2 volt reading on the scan?

Plugged it in the multi scan a couple more times 12.4 and then up to 13.8 running. The only difference since that 10.2 is the physical driving of 1 week . No clue

 

[John202020]

Post a picture of your key?
Ours for our 09

 

[varesecrazy]

Timpsons.. or a proper autolocksmith

I always make a point of having a spare

For a Grande Punto..it was 20 minutes and £60 for a basic key..

But a massive bonus if you lose the use of the FIAT key

 

[SarahAck]

Timpsons.. or a proper autolocksmith

I always make a point of having a spare

For a Grande Punto..it was 20 minutes and £60 for a basic key..

But a massive bonus if you lose the use of the FIAT key

That’s the plan tomorrow, if it’s just a new key I will be so happy

 

[varesecrazy]

That’s the plan tomorrow, if it’s just a new key I will be so happy

Do let us know how it goes

 

[portland_bill]

I'm surprised its not been mentioned already, but the main battery earth cable needs careful checking.
This is a weak point on Pandas and 500s. The earth cable is aluminium, and corrodes internally, sometimes breaking, but otherwise causing a high resistance. That would account for a good battery if tested, but the ECU reading much less.
Ideally, put a jump lead from battery earth (negative) to the engine or gearbox. Then see if battery voltage appears at the ECU.

 

[SarahAck]

I'm surprised its not been mentioned already, but the main battery earth cable needs careful checking.
This is a weak point on Pandas and 500s. The earth cable is aluminium, and corrodes internally, sometimes breaking, but otherwise causing a high resistance. That would account for a good battery if tested, but the ECU reading much less.
Ideally, put a jump lead from battery earth (negative) to the engine or gearbox. Then see if battery voltage appears at the ECU.

We put a new Earth on following reading the forum , no change unfortunately

 

[portland_bill]

We put a new Earth on following reading the forum , no change unfortunately

Check the plenum chamber below the wipers, or more specifically, the 'duckbill' drain tubes. If the chamber fills with rainwater, it overflows inside the car, often straight onot the body ECU. Might be an idea to check the ECU connectors for water.

The main feed cable has been reported occasionally as defective, but I think they are copper, so much longer lasting. Never a bad idea to check them though. Then every earth point you can find, especially any on the top of the engine, I think the ignition ECU may earth there (not sure on which vehicles). May also be an earth under the battery tray. (recollections of historical posts)
My MES does report a lower voltage at the ECU then across the battery, but usually only around 0.5v. Need to find why yours is so low. Somehow the voltage is not getting through unimpeded.