Can someone please offer advice for me changing my B’s timing belt? As a low cost retiree I want to consider changing the belt myself. I would hope to avoid buying the two camshaft lock tabs and ask is it reasonable to change the belt while relying on careful marking of relevant wheels - both camshafts with crank at TDC, crankshaft, other wheels non-critical. Or would this be foolish? Thanks for advice.
Technical Advice requested re Timing Belt change
- Thread starter LezLezLez65
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Advice requested re Timing Belt change
I did mine with minimal experience the job isn’t too difficult, but,I would not suggest doing it cam lock tool
As I have sold my B, I still have the tool in my garage if you want to make me an offer
As I have sold my B, I still have the tool in my garage if you want to make me an offer
Davefridge
Established member
Instead of using cam lock tools maybe you could remove cam bearing caps, place a rubber washer/elastic band and refit the caps to lock the cams in correct place (having found tdc first). I find the hardest jobs are :-
Getting the wheel arch liner out.
Getting the belt covers off.
Releasing the auxiliary belt.
Getting new cam belt on.
Hope this helps!
Getting the wheel arch liner out.
Getting the belt covers off.
Releasing the auxiliary belt.
Getting new cam belt on.
Hope this helps!
If you:
1) Know the car runs fine and is not sluggish etc.
2) Know that the current timing is correct, e.g. you know it was last timed with the correct tooling
then you can do the cam belt change by accurately marking everything up provided that:
a) when the new belt is fitted then the run/fit from the exhaust cam sprocket to the crank drive sprocket is an exact tight and snug fit. To check this place the bottom of the belt on the crank and wrap to left and wedge in place. Now try to put the belt over the right/exhaust cam sprocket. Nothing must move and if a nice tight/snug fit the you can carry on over the inlet cam and the rest of the path.
If all still looks OK then tension the belt ensuring nothing moved. If still all OK the hand rotate the engine four times till the marks should all align again. Repeat. Check tensioner is still pointer aligned. Check tension on exhaust to crank by finger twisting the belt on the middle of the down run. 45 degree twist should be firm and beyond 45 to 90 much harder.
If all the above is correct then you will not damage the engine. The next part is a test drive. Does it drive OK. On return check the timing again. If all is well then "Job Done". If not you are going to have to get the propper tooling and also cam cover gasket kit (large outer gasket and four inner seals for the spark plug holes) and start again
Some extra tips to be even more sure and easier.
a) get engine to a TDC postiion. Most accurate way withot tooling is to use the timing marks and inspection hole on the top of the gearbox bell housing. Remove the rectangular rubber plug. There are 3 notches on/in the edge of the window casting. TDC is the LEFT most, middle 5 deg. and right 10 deg.
b) now use large screw drivers / bits of wood to wedge the flywheel to stop from moving. Make sure nothing can drop through into the bell housing
c) make a long cardboard/other pointer finger with straight edge that you can attach to the crank pulley end. This being a larger diameter than the crank pulley means that using this as a marker as well will easily show any crank movement
d) use those paper "bull dog" spring clips (wedge shaped clips with folding arms) to hold the timing belt onto the sprockets. Make life easier and reduces errors and delt slips when you were not looking.
Finally
Suggest you get a full timing kit. Belt, tensioner, static belt stretcher/pulley and water pump. The water pump uses an "O" ring so no sealant is required.
PLEASE NOTE! Doing any cam belt change without tooling can be done BUT IS NOT ideal or recommended. On older Fiats like Uno, Tipo, Tempra, Strada then the engine management systems and fine timing tuning were not an issue. On later models where cam position sensors are also used then the systems tend to be far more fussy and more finely setup. Often being just one tooth out on a cam spocket or even less on the crank can completely mess the engine performance/driveability up.
As with all DIY safety first and all responsibilitiy is yours!
1) Know the car runs fine and is not sluggish etc.
2) Know that the current timing is correct, e.g. you know it was last timed with the correct tooling
then you can do the cam belt change by accurately marking everything up provided that:
a) when the new belt is fitted then the run/fit from the exhaust cam sprocket to the crank drive sprocket is an exact tight and snug fit. To check this place the bottom of the belt on the crank and wrap to left and wedge in place. Now try to put the belt over the right/exhaust cam sprocket. Nothing must move and if a nice tight/snug fit the you can carry on over the inlet cam and the rest of the path.
If all still looks OK then tension the belt ensuring nothing moved. If still all OK the hand rotate the engine four times till the marks should all align again. Repeat. Check tensioner is still pointer aligned. Check tension on exhaust to crank by finger twisting the belt on the middle of the down run. 45 degree twist should be firm and beyond 45 to 90 much harder.
If all the above is correct then you will not damage the engine. The next part is a test drive. Does it drive OK. On return check the timing again. If all is well then "Job Done". If not you are going to have to get the propper tooling and also cam cover gasket kit (large outer gasket and four inner seals for the spark plug holes) and start again
Some extra tips to be even more sure and easier.
a) get engine to a TDC postiion. Most accurate way withot tooling is to use the timing marks and inspection hole on the top of the gearbox bell housing. Remove the rectangular rubber plug. There are 3 notches on/in the edge of the window casting. TDC is the LEFT most, middle 5 deg. and right 10 deg.
b) now use large screw drivers / bits of wood to wedge the flywheel to stop from moving. Make sure nothing can drop through into the bell housing
c) make a long cardboard/other pointer finger with straight edge that you can attach to the crank pulley end. This being a larger diameter than the crank pulley means that using this as a marker as well will easily show any crank movement
d) use those paper "bull dog" spring clips (wedge shaped clips with folding arms) to hold the timing belt onto the sprockets. Make life easier and reduces errors and delt slips when you were not looking.
Finally
Suggest you get a full timing kit. Belt, tensioner, static belt stretcher/pulley and water pump. The water pump uses an "O" ring so no sealant is required.
PLEASE NOTE! Doing any cam belt change without tooling can be done BUT IS NOT ideal or recommended. On older Fiats like Uno, Tipo, Tempra, Strada then the engine management systems and fine timing tuning were not an issue. On later models where cam position sensors are also used then the systems tend to be far more fussy and more finely setup. Often being just one tooth out on a cam spocket or even less on the crank can completely mess the engine performance/driveability up.
As with all DIY safety first and all responsibilitiy is yours!
Thank you Brian Poole. I will study your advice in detail and hope to proceed. Thank you. LezLezLez65
Hi, I am unclear about your advice re camshaft clamps. Do you recommend them, or not? If your answer is “yes” I would make you an offer. LezLezLez65
Thank you Dave Fridge. I will study your advice in detail and hope to proceed. Thank you. LezLezLez65
Sorry, mistyped.
I wouldn’t do it without the clamps.
Right now, my garage is full of furniture as I am doing some work on the house, give me a couple of days and I will dig them out and give you a shout
The tools for the job are quite cheap i'd say. And very cheap in comparison to having a garage do the job.
Doing the job yourself is a good idea, but i'd say buy all the tools that are suggested even if they are only every used once.
Doing the job yourself is a good idea, but i'd say buy all the tools that are suggested even if they are only every used once.
