Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

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Technical 1242 8v SPI Preparing Engine For Turboing

indeed, the crank pulley looks different.

this is what mine looks like

DSCF3697.jpg
 
Well, you can't see the crank cog as its hidden behing the pulley ;)

The pulley on the 1.2 is different to the 1.1. The timing teeth on the alterntor pulley sit on the outside of the pulley, and the crank sensor sits further out to compensate.

You can swap the pulley around for any you like though if you move the sensor, the bolt holes are the same. My 16v has the 1.1 alternator pulley bolted to the 16v crank, with a bracket shifting the sensor out.

Shame I can't see arc's picture at the minute. Work is blocking his site :eek:

Kristian
 
hmm :confused: i'll leave the pulleys as they are for now, we'll see when it comes to putting the belt on. Whats this about the wategate needing room ot open? How far does it move? Any other pics you need to see if I have enough room just let me know and i'll get em taken

thanks again

Lenny
 
nice one ;) alex said to me afterwards that it should be ok anyways :)

Another thing i need to know if anyone can help is inside the flange of the turbo elbow (the face that mounts to the exhaust side of the turbo) does it have a recess machined in it to allow that little actuator inside the exhaust side of the turbo to open fully? And one a little more trivial than that, are exhaust studs high tensile? Or would i be alright making some out of SS studding? (threaded bar)

Thanks again

Lenny (y)
 
use high tensile bolts matey or else ull never get them out again if having to tinker with the turbo after a few months of use they rust in a gooden ;)

my flange hasnt got a recess for the wastgate just opens about 5mm to let the pressure out into the exhaust
 
right-o lol one less job to do, and one more lol. I'll have to nip to the scrappers someimt eand get some manifold studs, cos i only got 2 :eek: haha

thanks again

any word on whether i need to modify the water pipe? trying to keep things rolling along steadily so bits don't get left out until the last minute lol

Cheers (y)
 
Well, you can't see the crank cog as its hidden behing the pulley ;)

The pulley on the 1.2 is different to the 1.1. The timing teeth on the alterntor pulley sit on the outside of the pulley, and the crank sensor sits further out to compensate.

You can swap the pulley around for any you like though if you move the sensor, the bolt holes are the same. My 16v has the 1.1 alternator pulley bolted to the 16v crank, with a bracket shifting the sensor out.

Shame I can't see arc's picture at the minute. Work is blocking his site :eek:

Kristian

not quite accurate. the 16v has a differently located sensor, but the 8v's do not. The trigger wheel is different on the 1.2 as it has a harmonic dampener tin the middle (hence it looking different to Brookys), but essentially it is the same part.

wonder why it blocked my site, i took the pictures of boobs off there :confused:
 
haha :p thanks for the compliments, but they're not my boobies :p i'll make sure the comments are passed on :p lol

Anyone got any real decent pics of their tub lump? (in or out of the car) so that i can study them and see what's what. Like Gazzamans ones in his project thread.

Thanks again

Lenny
 
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hi again!
Cracking on, I made a mock up of the sandwich plate today, phoned up mocal and asked how wide the sandwich plate was, he said it's about 1 1/4" so i used some 1 1/2" box section and drilled a hole through it, tapped one side m20x1.5 and welded a stud to the other side (to sit the filter on, like the extension bolt from the sandwich plate) see the pics below.

It was very hard to get the filter on to the extension stud once i had spun the sandwich plate mock up on to the oil pump! I'm just wondering if this is due to the extra 1/4" on the thickness of the box section? if so then all is well, as the sandwich plate with be that 1/4" smaller when i get it. Also in the pics you will see that one of the turbo exhaust flange bolt holes is now close to the oil filter when it is on, again this could be so close due to the extra 1/4" that I have on the box section.

All ideas appreciated

Thanks again

Lenny

 
another quick Q for people, does the 1242 8v SPI TB have the 20mm spacer under it like the others do? cos i went to the scrappy today, and in my haste just grabbed some TB bolts (the ones for that secure it to the inlet manifold) from an 899 cinq, and they're not long enough to reach through the TB assembly and spacer to thread into the inlet manifold :eek:, i'm guessing this is because they are from an 899? do i need to get them from a 1242 engine?

thanks again

Lenny
 
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