Technical Panda 169 overheating

[Chico1983david]

If anyone can give me any advice before i take her to the garage would be appreciated. So driving today I noticed a bit of over rev when changing from 2nd to 3rd, left it be until I noticed the temperature gauge climbed up! Checked under the bonnet and radiator fan was on, first time I’ve ever seen it running. Checked coolant levels which was fine but did notice a foam on the top when i got a light to it. Engine was very hot. Oil levels fine so just looked around and noticed a crystallised buildup of coolant on the side of the radiator. I tried cleaning it to see if I could see it leaking. I’ve not plugged it in yet. Took it around the block for 10 minutes and temperature went up nearly to the top. Google says waterpump or thermostat

 

[koalar]

Are you sure it's got coolant in

Looks like a large leak

And low down

Probably the steel side of the radiator has rusted through

Undo the bleed screw, right hand side of the engine, looking from the front

Adds coolant and report back how much it takes to fill.

Don't drive the car until this is sorted.

 

[Chico1983david]

Are you sure it's got coolant in

Looks like a large leak

And low down

Probably the steel side of the radiator has rusted through

Undo the bleed screw, right hand side of the engine, looking from the front

Adds coolant and report back how much it takes to fill.

Don't drive the car until this is sorted.

View attachment 427552

 

[Chico1983david]

I’m assuming you mean this! But before i did that I checked on the coolant level and it’s dropped to just above minimum line yet it was showing just under max when I looked earlier after the drive

 

[koalar]

I’m assuming you mean this! But before i did that I checked on the coolant level and it’s dropped to just above minimum line yet it was showing just under max when I looked earlier after the drive

You need to open the bleed screw

If air is in the system it will expand and push the level artificially high

I suspect it will take over 2 litres to fill

From memory it's about 4.5 litres total

 

[Chico1983david]

Do i do that when engine is running or when stood cold?

 

[koalar]

Do i do that when engine is running or when stood cold?

Cold

I"d test with water, incase it pours out

You can always syphon off with a pipe

You can't run for too long without coolant as it will corrode internally, but fine for a day or so to test

 

[Chico1983david]

Cold

What do I do once I open it

 

[Chico1983david]

What do I do once I open it

And thank you for replying

 

[koalar]

Measure how much water it takes till coolant comes out of the screw hole

Over heating to max is pretty hard to do in 10 minutes as you can run a couple of miles without any coolant

Fingers crossed there's no expensive damage

Obviously a new radiator will be required

Not a big job

 

[koalar]

Yep that the bleed screw in your photo

 

[DaveMcT]

Fit a diesel or 100HP radiator with remote coolant bottle. Parts costs are slightly higher, but you get a much better view of your coolant level.

 

[Yolanda]

Fit a diesel or 100HP radiator with remote coolant bottle. Parts costs are slightly higher, but you get a much better view of your coolant level.

Thats interesting as I've allways thought that there isn't enough water in my 1200 8 valve. So would that system hold more water, and is there a place to fit the bottle.

 

[Chico1983david]

So yesterday I topped it up with just water as it looked low after just being stood. Today I noticed same thing, dropped really low but with no puddles. Started it up until normal temperature and undid the pressure valve slightly and coolant was coming out so it’s pumping through. I took bumper off to get a better look at the radiator leak and it’s dry. I’ve got no white smoke so assuming head gasket is ok. Think I should just take it to the garage

 

[DaveMcT]

Thats interesting as I've allways thought that there isn't enough water in my 1200 8 valve. So would that system hold more water, and is there a place to fit the bottle.

The radiator support frames are the same right down to Air-Con condenser brackets. 100HP and Multijet both use a full width core with separate expansion tank. The bottom outlets are different but the hose can be modified with an alloy or steel sleeve and a pair of clamps.

The biggest concern is the (so-called) QD hose connectors. I have not managed to remove them from any of my cars. A bare radiator would be a problem so check it comes with the connectors.

 

[koalar]

So yesterday I topped it up with just water as it looked low after just being stood. Today I noticed same thing, dropped really low but with no puddles. Started it up until normal temperature and undid the pressure valve slightly and coolant was coming out so it’s pumping through. I took bumper off to get a better look at the radiator leak and it’s dry. I’ve got no white smoke so assuming head gasket is ok. Think I should just take it to the garage

Still looks like the steel side plates on the radiator have rusted away, Anyhow For that much staining it's a fairly big leak and low down

If you can remove the front bumper you can change the radiator

 

[koalar]

Thats interesting as I've allways thought that there isn't enough water in my 1200 8 valve. So would that system hold more water, and is there a place to fit the bottle.

Roughly 4.5 litres is plenty, When working well the fans rarely come on, My fans have not been on this year (except after the core plugs failed) even when stuck in traffic,

When draining the system there's a surprising amount left in the car,

 

[Yolanda]

I posted this some time ago but I think it's worth mentioning again. I bought my car July 2021 with a similar rad leak and popped a bottle of KSeal in whilst I was looking round for a new rad. The rad is still bone dry and I never got round to buying a new one. However I only use the car as a run about, so don't do any long runs, but for owners that use there cars on a daily basis/long runs holidays etc a new one is a must.
PS. I carry a 1 Ltr bottle of coolant in the boot just in case. Like many on here I'm the old school type (old being the operative word) and check the oil/water at least once a week.

 

[DaveMcT]

I flush my cooling systems with water then drain. I next add 2.5 litres of coolant concentrate and top up with water. This ensures the final concentration is at least the correct spec. I avoid K-Seal as it an clog water pimp and sensors. Less "sophisticated" anti leak products are ok for pin-holed rads.

 

[Yolanda]

I flush my cooling systems with water then drain. I next add 2.5 litres of coolant concentrate and top up with water. This ensures the final concentration is at least the correct spec. I avoid K-Seal as it an clog water pimp and sensors. Less "sophisticated" anti leak products are ok for pin-holed rads.

I've not had any problems with the KSeal I've fitted the new thermostat as previously mentioned and bled the system since using it and every thing is working fine. I take your point though, but if you Google it it's a lot better than it used to be eg more refind for todays applications and its sold all over the world. It does state on the bottle that after putting it in and the leak has stopped you can drain the system and re fill with the correct coolant mix.