I am out tomorrow morning with no internet unless I find a cafe 
Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....
- Thread starter milleplod
- Start date
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Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....
RDM1
Established member
Sure no worries I'll just post my findings when i do but if you could consider them as ok and give me another place to check I'd be grateful
Right we need to be sure
Red and white to any black and purple should be near to battery voltage
Before at ignition on we were dropping 3.5V but the battery wasn't
While cranking it should remain above 8.5V, I picked that figure as that's the minimum the body computer needs, the ECU need slightly less but don't have the exact specifications
Assuming that's okay we need to clear the codes
Switch the ignition off and back on and read the codes again
With the scanner data logging the RPM and voltage, see if the 3 second delay is still present
Red and white to any black and purple should be near to battery voltage
Before at ignition on we were dropping 3.5V but the battery wasn't
While cranking it should remain above 8.5V, I picked that figure as that's the minimum the body computer needs, the ECU need slightly less but don't have the exact specifications
Assuming that's okay we need to clear the codes
Switch the ignition off and back on and read the codes again
With the scanner data logging the RPM and voltage, see if the 3 second delay is still present
RDM1
Established member
Bottom right pin: ignition off: 12.20v
Ignition on: 12.01v
Cranking: 9.95v->10.00v
Bottom left pin: ignition off: 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.99v
Cranking: 9.57v->10.07v
Top left pin: ignition off: 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.98v
Cranking: 9.53v->9.85v
Top right pin: ignition off 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.97v
Cranking: 9.37v->9.81v
Hello everyone hope you're having a nice weekend/holiday, these are the values i got after taking a lot of time making sure by probing from behind but keep in mind that on and cranking are dropping after every crank and second value while cranking is after about 2-3 seconds of continuous cranking hope these values clears any suspicions but now they seem normal to me
Ignition on: 12.01v
Cranking: 9.95v->10.00v
Bottom left pin: ignition off: 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.99v
Cranking: 9.57v->10.07v
Top left pin: ignition off: 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.98v
Cranking: 9.53v->9.85v
Top right pin: ignition off 12.20v
Ignition on: 11.97v
Cranking: 9.37v->9.81v
Hello everyone hope you're having a nice weekend/holiday, these are the values i got after taking a lot of time making sure by probing from behind but keep in mind that on and cranking are dropping after every crank and second value while cranking is after about 2-3 seconds of continuous cranking hope these values clears any suspicions but now they seem normal to me
Normal
RDM1
Established member
So what's next then? And by the way i think the bcm is the one lacking the proper power because sometimes the neutral beep when ignition closes doesn't trigger and this is the first time it does that twice too
Does that mean it's different to here
The meter must have been okay here as two of the four wires were okay
RDM1
Established member
No no forget the old one for some reason it you don't push the prob extremely hard you won't get a right value so apparently last time i didn't push the prob all the way in because this time i was sure because i started with ignition off getting the same battery value then continue with ignition on than cranking
And now we touched things we need to confirm everything, is still the same
Clear the codes
Switch the ignition off and back on and read the codes again
If everything is the same, there shouldn't be any
With the scanner data logging the RPM and voltage, see if the 3 second delay is still present
Have the same codes come back
Clear the codes
Switch the ignition off and back on and read the codes again
If everything is the same, there shouldn't be any
With the scanner data logging the RPM and voltage, see if the 3 second delay is still present
Have the same codes come back
RDM1
Established member
I'll have it checked tomorrow but keep in mind that the voltage is normal but RPM was delayed a lot but I'll monitor them both together while at it
RDM1
Established member
Hello there just managed to check them and this is the video before the battery died anyway as you can see now there is something illogical as there is voltage spikes on ignition on without cranking on the ECU and these are faults that were acting previously but this time showed up no idea what is their problem
Attachments
RDM1
Established member
And on the ECU forgot to take a picture of the faults but it was RPM sensor and the phonic relearns fault with a total of 5 faults on the ECU
This time we have RPM and cranking at the same time
The RPM is a valid speed
The massive spikes aren't good, the brake switch will be the new beep from the gearbox.
There pretty short, too quick for a multimeter to measure
Do you have the CODE card for car
The RPM is a valid speed
The massive spikes aren't good, the brake switch will be the new beep from the gearbox.
There pretty short, too quick for a multimeter to measure
Do you have the CODE card for car
RDM1
Established member
Uhmmmm unfortunately no and not even the owner manual
RDM1
Established member
And the brake switch randomly shows up although it is functioning properly and while at it which code card are you referring to?
The immobiliser CODE was printed on a card
It allowed the accelerator pedal to input the CODE incase of key fail
It was given with the car except here in the UK where you have to ask for it from the main dealer
It can be read directly from the body computer with the right equipment
It allowed the accelerator pedal to input the CODE incase of key fail
It was given with the car except here in the UK where you have to ask for it from the main dealer
It can be read directly from the body computer with the right equipment
This noise needs addressing
Without a clean power and ground, the sensors and communication will not work
Even if the door was opening and closing it should not drop as much as cranking
If you just switch the ignition on and leave it
Does it settle down
RDM1
Established member
First the door was closed and the pumps had filled their pressures and went out, so these spikes came with only ignition on while I'm sitting in the car nothing else
RDM1
Established member
And i think this weird spiking is the starting issue
If you can get it to settle a bit you can try nudging a few cables gently, while watching the scan tool and see if you can make the spikes appear in time with the taps
Start with the big things
Gently tap the ECU once every second, is the a corresponding spike
Gently tap the BCM once every second, is the a corresponding spike
Wiggle the chassis lead
Tap the joint purple and black wire join
And so on
Start with the big things
Gently tap the ECU once every second, is the a corresponding spike
Gently tap the BCM once every second, is the a corresponding spike
Wiggle the chassis lead
Tap the joint purple and black wire join
And so on
