Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

Currently reading:
Technical '06 Panda crank sensor issue.....

One more thing is that the insulation came off midway down the engine and was repaired and having heard a lot how bad fiat wirings are i didn't want to take a chance so i replaced about 6 inches of the wires that had the copper with slight corrosion starting to build up so I changed both segments off the wires both the signal and ground as i read on the internet but apparently the oil sensor wasn't firmly seated I'll try and make sure tomorrow and will send you an updated video and this one is from before we started messing with the ECU so you can say that this is the main way the car used to behave because today i searched all day between the ECU and cps and there's a lot still disassembled.
One more thing that could help us that the check engine light has always been slightly dimmer than it should be because of i give order for it to light up through the scan tool it lights slightly brighter than shown in the videos
 

Attachments

  • VID-20231107-WA0004.mp4
    8.3 MB
Last edited:
Measure the voltage between the engine block and the battery negative, while cranking

Here's a faulty one, the battery and oil go out while cranking

And the block goes positive




Something is badly wrong as the battery check light goes out while cranking


The engine check light
Oil light
Battery light

Are all hinting the ECU has not good power and ground


The simplest way to confirm or eliminate is a voltage drop test while cranking
 
Thank you very much will do this first thing in the morning after securing the oil pressure sensor plug and will update you with what happens
 
Alright so good morning I checked the oil pressure sensor's connector it was loose so i pressed it as it should and here are the videos of the voltage drop test

and how the dashboard is behaving after seating the oil pressure sensor's connector was pushed all the way in
 
I'm not sure if it might be the cause but when i check using the scan tool on the gearbox sometimes i get an alternator fault although when the car was working it was charging perfectly fine
 
That's great

The voltage drop is a little high but acceptable and will not stop the car from starting, nothing to worry about

What's changed the battery charge light is staying on now


Now the dash is behaving is there any RPM signal on the scan tool
 
No not on the dashboard nor on the scan tool but when i use the multimeter i can see fluctuation when probing on the back of the wires which means the cps is working i think
 
Cool

You may have to clear the code

It see it as an intemitant signal when compared against the camshaft sensor, some model will not fire untill its cleared

After clearing it, don't crank the engine, switch the ignition off and back on and read the codes again an make sure its really gone, I have had trouble clearing codes on some Pandas with some software

Before it trips another error code

Let's make absolutely sure the ECU isn't getting any signal at all

Take a spark plug out and ground it against the block and see if it sparks
 
Alright I'm going to plug an old working external one and try it on the engine but i have cleared the fault and tried reading to make sure it was gone and indeed it did go away but after thati tried cranking and still the same thing no startup but I'm gonna go try with the plug
 
Alright I'm going to plug an old working external one and try it on the engine but i have cleared the fault and tried reading to make sure it was gone and indeed it did go away but after thati tried cranking and still the same thing no startup but I'm gonna go try with the plug
That's great, it does no seem like it but we are moving forwards
 
Ok so i just tried it there's no electricity on the spark plug
 
Btw at first rpm on the dashboard wasn't reacting and the scan tool did read an ECU reading of the RPM but now there's no feedback on both ends
 
Btw at first rpm on the dashboard wasn't reacting and the scan tool did read an ECU reading of the RPM but now there's no feedback on both ends
Not too worried about the dash at the moment,

If the battery been flat or the body computer isn't getting enough voltage the there is a delay until the body computer resets

Just need the ECU to spark first
 
Not too worried about the dash at the moment,

If the battery been flat or the body computer isn't getting enough voltage the there is a delay until the body computer resets

Just need the ECU to spark first
I am worried about the bcm because it was tempered with the previous owner with some add-ons for some music of the sort like extra speakers and such because the Plastics in the rear leading to the trunk showed a lot of broken pieces to have the wires led to the trunk where he had some sort of music system laid back there as i think with the radio changed to an aftermarket one that's why my biggest concern is the bcm causing all the troubles and if you could clear my worries that the immobilizer flashing in the dashboard is not related to what I'm experiencing and got nothing to do with the bcm that is hosting the immobilizer
 
Immobiliser is behaving normally in the videos yes it should flash

The key is seen
The code transmitted to the ECU
The code transmitted back to the BCM

The light goes out
 
Back
Top