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Technical X244 cruise control retrofit 2.8JTD 2005-factory parts?

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Technical X244 cruise control retrofit 2.8JTD 2005-factory parts?

I have got the brake switch out!


I disengaged tthe connector tab, rotated the switch off its bayonet so as to tilt it (tried this before tho'), and let my temper out on pulling the plug out. It gave, so then had room to get the switch body out. The tit on the new swich was as stated too long, so I cut off the rounded head and the short square section belw it. It is neow exactly! the same length as the old one. Getting the new one back will be hard I expect. BUT I hve managed to get theintermediate piece of loom out, about 6 inches, with the switch plug one end, and a socket the other. I can solder now in comfort before running the replacement gauntlet, at least.

So to be clear- I now bridge wire switch pins 1 and 3, spurring off this bridge to yellow stalk cable? Pins 1 and 3 being normally closed and check out thus for correct continuity, going openwhen brake is pressed, and the oppsite on 2 and 4, for brake lights. Will, therefore, 1 and 3 bridge supply my + swiched voltage- internally from pin 2 or 4- or do I need it from elsewhere? I know I keep asking the same old stuff, but I'm bouncing off walls here with the frustration of a job I wished I had never started!
 
I have got the brake switch out!


I disengaged tthe connector tab, rotated the switch off its bayonet so as to tilt it (tried this before tho'), and let my temper out on pulling the plug out. It gave, so then had room to get the switch body out. The tit on the new swich was as stated too long, so I cut off the rounded head and the short square section belw it. It is neow exactly! the same length as the old one. Getting the new one back will be hard I expect. BUT I hve managed to get theintermediate piece of loom out, about 6 inches, with the switch plug one end, and a socket the other. I can solder now in comfort before running the replacement gauntlet, at least.

So to be clear- I now bridge wire switch pins 1 and 3, spurring off this bridge to yellow stalk cable? Pins 1 and 3 being normally closed and check out thus for correct continuity, going openwhen brake is pressed, and the oppsite on 2 and 4, for brake lights. Will, therefore, 1 and 3 bridge supply my + swiched voltage- internally from pin 2 or 4- or do I need it from elsewhere? I know I keep asking the same old stuff, but I'm bouncing off walls here with the frustration of a job I wished I had never started!
 
Ocwobio said:
I have got the brake switch out!

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So to be clear- I now bridge wire switch pins 1 and 3, spurring off this bridge to yellow stalk cable? Pins 1 and 3 being normally closed and check out thus for correct continuity, going openwhen brake is pressed, and the oppsite on 2 and 4, for brake lights. Will, therefore, 1 and 3 bridge supply my + swiched voltage- internally from pin 2 or 4- or do I need it from elsewhere? I know I keep asking the same old stuff, but I'm bouncing off walls here with the frustration of a job I wished I had never started!
Click to expand...

Sorry NO!

May I start with defining the states of the switch. Out of the box, switch pins 2 & 4 will form a NC pair (compare with old switch) for the stop lights, and pins 1 & 3 will be NO for cruise control. This is the opposite of what you may reasonably expect, but when in situ the switch button is held depressed by the brake pedal in its released (normal) position. The eLearn diagrams take this operated state of the switch as Normal. For simplicity, I will follow this convention, and assume that the switch is mounted on the vehicle.

Terminal 4 of the switch is connected to 12V obtained via 7.5A fuse F26. Wire colour should be Blue/Green (LV in Fiat code). You need to link this wire to terminal 3 of the switch Blue wire (L in Fiat code), and extend to the yellow wire of the Alfa 147 switch stalk. (The existing wire on terminal 3 routes directly to connector D160A/1 and terminates there.)

To complete the switch terminal information pin 2 Red/Black (RN) connects to the stop lights, and pin 1 Grey/Black (HN) connects to the EMC A54 via D001/B, and D004A/A08. I have not checked but I think that D004A is the connector in the base of the engine bay fusebox.

Now that you have the switch out, would it be possible to enlarge the slot? That is what I did.
 
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No need to enlarge the slot, got the new one in Ok and connected up,,,, bit awkward to say the least. I have put my bridge between blue and grey. Wrong then! Wondered where the supply would be from.
I had removed and replaced (after bridging) the 6 inch link between switch and loom, tomorrow I will re do the connections there linking the blue/green pin 4 to the blue pin3. I had already tested pin 4 for keyed supply last week. I admit to being caught out checking the new switch- realised the brake side with it extended would be NC when not fitted to bracket and pedal. Opposite being true for pins 1 and 3 being NO unless fitted also.

Many soldered joints and graduel shortening of loom pieces makes rectifying things harder. So, link 4 to 3 then off to the yellow stalk. Pin 1 left as is. I have actually linked off 1 to 3, so will 'simply' remove that one and put it on 4.

I also found that the stalk has 2 screw holes, only one of which (lower) can be used, I will have to cut the second mount boss off to enable flush fit. Also the Alfa screw is too small for the Fiat swich block mount hole. I found an easy way to route the cable from left to right, going down below heater controls and back of the map packet. I will post pics when done.
 
No need to enlarge the slot, got the new one in Ok and connected up,,,, bit awkward to say the least. I have put my bridge between blue and grey. Wrong then! Wondered where the supply would be from.
I had removed and replaced (after bridging) the 6 inch link between switch and loom, tomorrow I will re do the connections there linking the blue/green pin 4 to the blue pin3. I had already tested pin 4 for keyed supply last week. I admit to being caught out checking the new switch- realised the brake side with it extended would be NC when not fitted to bracket and pedal. Opposite being true for pins 1 and 3 being NO unless fitted also.

Many soldered joints and graduel shortening of loom pieces makes rectifying things harder. So, link 4 to 3 then off to the yellow stalk. Pin 1 left as is. I have actually linked off 1 to 3, so will 'simply' remove that one and put it on 4.

I also found that the stalk has 2 screw holes, only one of which (lower) can be used, I will have to cut the second mount boss off to enable flush fit. Also the Alfa screw is too small for the Fiat swich block mount hole. I found an easy way to route the cable from left to right, going down below heater controls and back of the map packet. I will post pics when done.
 
Ocwobio said:
I also found that the stalk has 2 screw holes, only one of which (lower) can be used, I will have to cut the second mount boss off to enable flush fit. Also the Alfa screw is too small for the Fiat swich block mount hole. I found an easy way to route the cable from left to right, going down below heater controls and back of the map packet. I will post pics when done.
Click to expand...

Applicable wiring diagrams for the brake pedal switch are:

1. Cruise Control E5060, and 2. Brake Lights E2021.

I sawed the conical upper mounting off the Alfa 147 stalk. I had a rumage for a suitable self tapper in my oddments jar, and ended up trimming one down to exact length on an ancient hand grinder. I would not recommend a power grinder. Too dangerous, but it may be possible if necessary to shorten a screw held in a vice, by using a Dremel or similar tool.

To replace the removed upper mounting, I added a short metal tie piece on the under side. Only about 20 to 25mm long from memory. one screw into the full depth of the slot in the Alfa moulding, and the other end to pick up an assembly screw in the Ducato column switch assembly. If the Alfa stalk is pushed up and down the Ducato assembly distorts. Could not expect more than that. Careful cutting of the slot in the lower column cover, to give a good fit further improves ridgidity. Carefiul measuring and trimming of a template for the slot helped.


I do have a photo of the above metal support in my camera, but it is a bit soot and whitewash, so difficult to extract detail.
 
Progress up now. I have broken and re-made the incorrectly made bridge connections for the brake light contacts now correctly bridging pin 4 to 3, and having a spur off 3 to the yellow stalk wire (not yet connected). I have checked for correct continuity in the harness before plugging in and they are OK. Continuity between pin 3, 4 and yellow to stalk is good. Connected harness section back into loom and connected battery. 12v supply to pin 4, pin3, and yellow stalk wire,and with key on shows battery volts, currently 12.16 ish,and drops to about 11.5 with brake pedal applied when checking between pins 1 and 3 (cruise control monitor pins in brake switch).So now I need to check correct function of pins 1 and 3 for continuity with brake off, and brake light function. Oh, and engine run!! But this after all the stalk wires are connected and stalk mounted. I will advise later. If all OK, I then have to connect remaining stalk wires from column back to d018a, do multiecuscan relearn, as I have it, then test and report.

By this time I can take the brake switch plug off the swich, and remove said switch with reckless abandon, now I have worked it out. The way that works for me is- partly release the plug, amybe half way, roeate the switch 90 degrees to disengage from bracket, withdraw it silghtly, angle it in towards the centreline of the vehicle, and angle downwards with one finger behind the lip of the plug, to guide it over the metal bracket, and pulling as it clears and out it popped. Can't believe it was such a hassle- hopefully banished now if ever needed again!
 
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I am pleased to see that you are making progress.

Very interested in your switch removal procedure. I followed this route exactly, upto the point of removing the connector from the inclined switch, but just could not get the connector clear of the switch. Hence the filing to widen the slot slightly. I had also considered partial removal of the pedal assembly, but that seemed far too complicated.
 
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Communicator said:
I am pleased to see that you are making progress.

Very interested in your switch removal procedure. I followed this route exactly, upto the point of removing the connector from the inclined switch, but just could not get the connector clear of the switch. Hence the filing to widen the slot slightly. I had also considered partial removal of the pedal assembly, but that seemed far too complicated.
Click to expand...

Well I was fed up and angry, which helped. I showed it who was the guv'nor, not in a mood for messing and such like. It might have felt like something would break, but in the end the switch housing deformed enough to let the plug out, and it did so without damgae. I am happy I have no problem with this now, and would rather not have to bother, but not a'feared of it either now!

I have re-attached the pins I cut off the stalk lead after removal from the plug thereon, and put them back in the plug. I had some superseal female pins from a superseal socket that are a perfect match. So I crimped and soldered these to the relevant wires in my 7 core from D180A, put heatshrink round them, and they are then pushed onto the male pins in the stalk plug. very nice, and simple, neat too. Going to check all the cross cab wires then the big switch on!

BTW, I have a dashcam to go in, a Nextbase 222. it also comes with a sticky mount that can go on a dash top, as well as the sucker, which you cannot use. I have a redundant electric control panel mount on my dash, and it will go on there. Downside is it is very sensitve to shocks activating record switch on, which makes a chiming sound. Loud noises can make it do so, so no good at night. It may be possible to turn this off in menu, but will have to check when I've finished the other job. The 322 has GPS which is a bonus.
 
Ocwobio said:
____________________________________________________________

BTW, I have a dashcam to go in, a Nextbase 222. it also comes with a sticky mount that can go on a dash top, as well as the sucker, which you cannot use. I have a redundant electric control panel mount on my dash, and it will go on there. Downside is it is very sensitve to shocks activating record switch on, which makes a chiming sound. Loud noises can make it do so, so no good at night. It may be possible to turn this off in menu, but will have to check when I've finished the other job. The 322 has GPS which is a bonus.
Click to expand...

Did I mention that I was also interested in Dash Cams, as opposed to Screen Cams (with rubber sucker), or are you psychic? I have been looking into this and have already installed a supply cable under the parcel shelf.

You mention both Nextbase 222, and 322. Is that a typo?


Perhaps we ought to start another thread?
 
Not a typo. I bought the 222. actually I bought 2. I will post a pic tomorrow ehrn Billy sun pops up again. The only snaI forsee, is due to the eide angle lens, there will be a huge amount of the dash top in the image.I have one in my espace, which is on the screen, and suffers a bit too like this. The burstner one will be much lower and near to the dash top. I too have blinds so on glass is no real help, unless taken off each night. Don't think another thread is needed unless you do, in which case I will try to add something useful to it.

Pics tomorrow of the cruise so far. Hopefully!
 
Oy, so many typos ! Failing wireless keyboard batteries and a springy little terrier jumping up on me!

Dashcam- maybe a new thread as there may be lots to add from others? . I am doing a new thread now on cruise control as it may be of further interest. Logic suggests a dedicated MoHo forum, but the largest wants you to pay for the privilege. So not for me when better i available for free.

Thanx are due to all who responded and helped me with this- not one condescending or unhelpful reply. This is the most complete and useful forum I have come across. AND we are not held to ransom for subscriptions, like some do!
 
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Ocwobio said:
- not one condescending or unhelpful reply.
Click to expand...

I have been following this saga with admiration and bated breath (as well as shock regarding the replacement of the brake switch!) so am embarrassed to confess that I have never used the factory fit cruise control on my van :eek:
 
Can anyone tell me if this is the right plug ? Colours are slightly different 83FF4B08-A232-43AD-A279-352C060DFBFB.jpeg
 
Sorry, but your picture does not look like the correct connector.

The required connector is of Delphi manufacture, and has 6 poles. The centre two poles are larger, and are associated with the aircon.

The connector, D018B, is located above and perhaps behind the LHS fusebox. Wire colours are, pin 1 pink/green, pin 2 red/green, pin 5 yellow/black, pin 6 white/violet.


I do not have aircon, but there are still 2 wires, (one thick red) inserted into the centre two poles, of one side of the connector.

See this link to Italian forum "Camper Online".https://translate.google.com/transl...fa-147-su-ducato-244-aiuto/222555&prev=search
 
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As communicator says, it does not look like the correct plug. Not all vans have it. If you tell us exactly which vehicle you have, it may be possible to help you find it if it's there. My base vehicle is an 05 X244, 2.8JTD right hand drive, with aircon.
 
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I do not have aircon on my x24
4.
The connector under discussion (D018B) has the thick red wire on pin 3 (D018B/3) and a smaller wire on D018B/4.

ELearn shows this wire as being part of the control circuit for the compressor engagement.

If you have aircon, then both of the centre pins of D018B will be populated.

Like Ocwobio, I have not succeded in inserting new male pims into D018B, even though they were bought as Delphi. The Italians seem to have succeded with this assembly.


Current arrangement is pins insulated with heatshrink, then more heatshrink to make up 2 pairs further secured with cable ties. Individual pairs then inserted into socket, with 2 more ties round previously mentioned ties, and socket body. I am not proud of the result but it works and will not fall apart. It keeps my options open.
 
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