Gman88667733
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Just another thought, the discs I got didn't have any sort of oil coating on, they were a matte finish, so I didn't bother cleaning them off before installing. Is this correct?
Technical Smell + noise?
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Technical Smell + noise?
Yes if they had Matt silver paint on you don't clean it off, the pads rub it off for you........but guess what? ...... Yes it smells a bit !
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Gman88667733
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Okay. Well I'll get some new sliders ordered tonight. I'll do a few more miles with various types of braking and see what happens.
Is there a sure fire way to see if the piston is sticking? They both moved back very easily when I unscrewed the brake fluid reservoir lid.
Because both sides are hot, seems unlikely that it is sticking suddenly though.
If the piston was sticking you would not be able to spin the wheel by hand.
If the piston was sticking you would not find it easy to push back into caliper.
If the piston was medium sticking the disc would get so hot the surface would turn blue.
If the piston was sticking a lot the disc would get so hot it would be glowing red.
Do not do various types of braking just drive so you can brake gently for the first 200 miles , unless you have to brake hard to avoid an accident . To avoid an accident brake as hard as you like.
Gman88667733
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Okay. I'll try and ignore the heat for now then and reassess in a few days after I put a few more miles on it
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Under inflated tyres or wheel tracking out of line will heat the tyres.
You can check tracking (roughly) by driving for a mile on a straight road. Stop gently and feel the tyre tread temperature. If one edge is significantly warmer you have a tracking issue.
Outside warm points at toe in.
Inside edge warm point at toe out.
Mine pulls left when set to zero degrees (correct). Setting a little toe-in stops the pulling and evens up the tread temperatures. Why? I have no idea. My wife's Panda is fine when set to the book.
You can check tracking (roughly) by driving for a mile on a straight road. Stop gently and feel the tyre tread temperature. If one edge is significantly warmer you have a tracking issue.
Outside warm points at toe in.
Inside edge warm point at toe out.
Mine pulls left when set to zero degrees (correct). Setting a little toe-in stops the pulling and evens up the tread temperatures. Why? I have no idea. My wife's Panda is fine when set to the book.
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The left hub mounting bracket is jigged incorrectly, causing the left pull. Some, it appears seem to have been manufactured correctly.
Sadly, the aftermarket axle manufacturer has copied one exactly, so it pulls exactly as OE. Missed opportunity.
Their OE sample must have been damaged in transit, as all the little brackets arrive bent. Having seen a stack of new ones at the sellers, they are all identical, all the brackets bent exactly the same. ("You want this copied - we'll copy it.") Easy to bend them into correct position.
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The stub axle can be shimmed. Another job to have a go at.
Funnily enough, the garage four wheel tracking/alignment test showed the back axle as zero degrees both sides. All very odd.
PS a Rover (Oxford) buyer once told me about his discussions with Chinese manufacturers.
Quality control. Ah yes, we do qwo-rity. Where you wan stikka?
I mean do you work to CE quality. Of course where you wan stikka? On top? On bottom? Big one? Small one?
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Gman88667733
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Checked the wheels again. O/S is less free today. Gentle pressure moves the wheel, but doesn’t spin it. I can spin it half a turn with a gentle push, no more.
About to check the N/S - that was identical. They do spin, so I suppose they can’t be stuck
About to check the N/S - that was identical. They do spin, so I suppose they can’t be stuck
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Gman88667733
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The tracking is out, it pulls to the left when steering wheel is straight.
Getting new tyres on Thursday and am changing the other front strut before then, so ill get them do the tracking when putting the tyres on, so everything is OK.
rears should spin freely
fronts have the drag of the drive shafts
you should be able to spin them with one finger but they will stop almost immediately
the little sheet that comes in the box with them normally specifies cleaning as they are covered on a waxy coating not oil these days. Be burnt off by now anyhow.
Lot of disc's have a painted coating thesedays so don't require cleaning
Gman88667733
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Mine were painted. The paint has pretty much all worn off now.
Gman88667733
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That sounds about right for my car!
Gman88667733
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Both struts are now on. Getting the tracking done on Thursday with the 4 new tyres.
New slider pins are due tomorrow as well.
It'll be like a new car! Fingers crossed...
New slider pins are due tomorrow as well.
It'll be like a new car! Fingers crossed...
Gman88667733
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Dropped a bit of a clanger.....
The slider pin was ridiculously tight all the way and the very end snapped off in the carrier for some reason. Typical!!!
Any ideas?
Due to get new tyres Thursday, so need to sort it tomorrow!
Edit - local garage said they'll sort it tomorrow if I drop the carrier in.
Moral of the story is, make sure you have the right tools! I was whacking away at it with a regular Allen key and a hammer. Must order a hex set to go with my big breaker bar.
The slider pin was ridiculously tight all the way and the very end snapped off in the carrier for some reason. Typical!!!
Any ideas?
Due to get new tyres Thursday, so need to sort it tomorrow!
Edit - local garage said they'll sort it tomorrow if I drop the carrier in.
Moral of the story is, make sure you have the right tools! I was whacking away at it with a regular Allen key and a hammer. Must order a hex set to go with my big breaker bar.
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Get a blow torch on it till it gets red hot or as hot as you can get it then drop it in a bucket of water. Repeat at least 5 times.
Then see if there is enough of pin left to get grips onto and try to unscrew.
If you can get it out reheat to red but let in cool naturally at room temperature till cool.
I think the tight to the end is due to threadlock liquid there appears to be a blue colour near the threads .
Heating should release the thread lock but it has to be very hot.
If the threads that you could see unscrew weren't rusty a single heating should work.
Heating should release the thread lock but it has to be very hot.
If the threads that you could see unscrew weren't rusty a single heating should work.
