Technical Rear wheel bearing

[bugsymike]

Some while ago I came across an interesting article on torquing up critical engine bolts. It's written for aircraft engines, but the engineering principles discussed are equally relevant to pretty much any internal combustion engine. It gets interesting towards the end of the second page, and reinforces most of what's being said in this thread.

We also had a dial gauge on a large steel block which was great for checking if cylinder blocks were true, but even without that I regularly used a steel straight edge and a feeler gauge on blocks and heads.
Jrk's attachment makes interesting reading and of course harder to walk home when your aircraft engine packs up .
Reminds me of an old boy when I was an apprentice, he had been an aircraft mechanic on seaplanes coming up to WW1 where they started them by priming, pulling on the propeller and then jumping off the pontoons/floats into the sea as it fired, so if the mechanic had done a poor job he then had to climb back out of the water soaking wet and pull on the prop again!'
He was a tough old bird, an uncle of the garage owners, his party trick was to stop a car engine by putting his hands across all four brass spark plug terminals, he was 80 years old then

 

[DaveMcT]

My 1.3 JTD crank end bolt (the one with left-hand thread) needed a locking tool to fit the damper pulley bolts and a tube to extend my 24 inch breaker bar. It pinged nicely and unscrewed.

I borrowed Mike's big torque wrench for tightening the new bolt (Thanks Mike ) to 260 Nm if I remember correctly. It all went well but its easier to set it to 150Nm (less force = more control) and then do the 90 degrees angle. My own wrench would have done that.