Technical Rear Brake disc problem panda 4x4

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Technical Rear Brake disc problem panda 4x4

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Sep 13, 2023
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Location
Manchester
Dear All,

I hope you are well.

My car playing jokes on me again.

I changed all disks and pads last year.

Please see the video , the rear discs are building some rust , I think is a lot and not classic rust colour that sometimes happen when breaks are wet.

Sometimes I hear squick noise when I take my car after work on reverse ( leaving the car park) but it disappear quick
What it could be ?

The pictures show the 2 rear disk breaks , one is in better condition ( rear right) the rear left if the very rusty one. But they were both like that like 2 weeks ago...
 
Model
Panda 4x4 antarctica 1.3 diesel 75h
Year
2014
Mileage
96000

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Use some fine emery paper and clean the disc. They look quite good. I find the brakes need annual cleaning and lubrication. R The squeaking can be cured by adding the vibration dampers un the car with a heavy weight in it occasionally it makes the brakes work much harder and keeps them free. The squeaking can be stopped by adding teh vibration dampers fitted to newer models. The replace a caliper bolt on each side. I can say they work as I have had with and without.
 
Use some fine emery paper and clean the disc. They look quite good. I find the brakes need annual cleaning and lubrication. R The squeaking can be cured by adding the vibration dampers un the car with a heavy weight in it occasionally it makes the brakes work much harder and keeps them free. The squeaking can be stopped by adding teh vibration dampers fitted to newer models. The replace a caliper bolt on each side. I can say they work as I have had with and without.
Please let me know where to find those you replaced . I will bring the car to my local garage to check the breaks , I did a full service in December I think they must have checked and clean the breaks .
 
Please let me know where to find those you replaced . I will bring the car to my local garage to check the breaks , I did a full service in December I think they must have checked and clean the breaks .
I have seen them on Mopar.com parts website. It may be a dealer only thing now. I would watch eBay and look for people braking the car. Dealer price is extortion.
 
Looking at the OP's photo the essential is to be able to take off the caliper and the bracket. Those need cleaning and lubrication :)
Yes that would help. I dont think you can get the bracket off without the disc being free. Catch 22. I manage to get the backs of the discs without shifting the brackets as these are very firmly fixed. Its not easy, but a suitably shaped piece if wood can hold a sheet of emery and you can work very slowly round. A nasty job if ever there was one.
 
The rear brakes have very little effect when there is not a heavy load in the back of the car. Carrying something (or someone?!) heavy in the back now and again and then going for a drive where the brakes get a lot of use does seem to help 'exercise' the rear brakes and keeps them clean and allows them to operate freely.

Also, especially at this time of year when salt is being put on the roads, its important to regularly rinse the brake callipers throughly (the front and back brakes) with the jet from a hose (not a pressure washer just a hose). This washes away the salt and mud that build up and make things like the brake calipers corrode and move less easily. (Note: don't do this on a day when frost is forecast as otherwise the mechanism freezes overnight - I've experienced this, reaching the end of my cul-de-sac and finding I have no brakes. Now always check them as soon as I move off in winter!
 
Last edited:
Dear All,

I hope you are well.

My car playing jokes on me again.

I changed all disks and pads last year.

Please see the video , the rear discs are building some rust , I think is a lot and not classic rust colour that sometimes happen when breaks are wet.

Sometimes I hear squick noise when I take my car after work on reverse ( leaving the car park) but it disappear quick
What it could be ?

The pictures show the 2 rear disk breaks , one is in better condition ( rear right) the rear left if the very rusty one. But they were both like that like 2 weeks ago...
It just needs using! The difference in rust per side probably is due to the direction of wind and rain that night?

Others may disagree with me, but this is most easily removed by applying handbrake while in motion. The bottom line is disc brakes like to be used. I've a Volvo 940 that gets SORNed most summers and I can guarantee an MOT advisory for pitted discs unless it has the equivalent of an Italian tune up on the brakes up and down the motorway before the test.

Regarding the noise I do get that on my 4x4 TA when reversing but again it seems to be related to the light corrosion on the disc.
 
this is most easily removed by applying handbrake while in motion

done this with my last few cars and not had a problem with rust or pitting on the rears - just don’t overdo it, once a week (even fortnightly) firmly applied on a dry road (so you can feel the braking) for 3 or 4 seconds is all that’s needed (make sure no-one’s following you!)
 
It just needs using!

Yes, of course.

Rust is not a problem here, it will be removed with the brake pad pressed to the disc.

The problem is why the caliper piston is not pressing the disk pad evenly on the whole surface, as on the other side. It can lead to a huge build up and an edge (?? don't know the correct word) on the outside of the disc.

1737826035397.png


I know the car has ABS, but both wheels should brake more or less equally, a big difference might cause the car to spin on a slippery road. Been there (OK, my ex-wife was when she was pregnant) and the cause was just one caliper that was not working as it should. Luckily nothing happened as the speed was minor and the road was empty, but the stress was enough.

It was my father's spare car she was using at the time. A FIAT... :p
 
Yes, of course.

Rust is not a problem here, it will be removed with the brake pad pressed to the disc.

The problem is why the caliper piston is not pressing the disk pad evenly on the whole surface, as on the other side. It can lead to a huge build up and an edge (?? don't know the correct word) on the outside of the disc.

View attachment 459273

I know the car has ABS, but both wheels should brake more or less equally, a big difference might cause the car to spin on a slippery road. Been there (OK, my ex-wife was when she was pregnant) and the cause was just one caliper that was not working as it should. Luckily nothing happened as the speed was minor and the road was empty, but the stress was enough.

It was my father's spare car she was using at the time. A FIAT... :p
I have a theory that it is the caliper slider pin rubber bushes being old and soft. This seems to allow the caliper to twist just enough to prevent it sliding. On my daughters 169 I changed the calipers (OK fronts) and the probelm went away. The calipers were not seized but the discs rusted terribly. AVOID Fiat for these parts they want £30 for each corner!!! You can get the bushes elsewhere. The load sensing brakes dont do much at all unless the car is laden down as Herts Hillhopper has said. The rubber bits hold the caliper body paralel to the slider pins even a slight deviation from perfect will cause some resitance to sliding, and may cause sticking even if the caliper piston moves entrely as it should. Also clean and grease the sliders with proper brake brease. Copper grease is unsuitable and also causes issues if used on slder pins. I use Bosch brake grease which is good but there are many others.
 
I have seen them on Mopar.com parts website. It may be a dealer only thing now. I would watch eBay and look for people braking the car. Dealer price is extortion.
See Italiparts web site under Panda they have these in stock 29 jan 25
 
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