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I'll be following the Haynes manual, i've pictured that. The exhaust has to come off, the rest of it hasn't sunk in yet.
Opinions on this trolley jack?
- Thread starter AnthonyH
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Opinions on this trolley jack?
Oh yes, that looks more like it! you can see what I mean now about the length of the lifting arm and how it directly dictates the maximum height it can achieve. I'm actually quite impressed with the size of the saddle on the wee jack - so often these wee jacks have such small diameter saddles. My old blue jack is pretty much identical in all important respects to the 1153 and I worked with it as my only jack - for home use - for best part of 20 years and never found it limited what I wanted to do.It has arrived and I've just pictured it. I'm reasonably impressed, it isn't a return that a previous customer didn't like, and while I haven't used it - I'm looking forward to!
For comparison my chinese toy is sat next to it. It deffo weighs 19kg, versus 5kg.
If you can think of any easy to do house tests i'll give it a run through! And thanks for the recommend
View attachment 447853
As far as giving it a "house test" it might be worth pumping it up as high as it will go. If it doesn't go up to near the vertical it might be an indication that it's low on oil. By the way, "proper" hydraulic jack oil contains additives to reduce moisture which will lengthen the life of the jack so always use "proper" jack oil for topping up. The real test will come when you first try raising the vehicle with it though. Please do keep us informed.
let me know what you think, with prime day coming up it might be worth me getting one.
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This picture is showing the heights, my old one couldn't get the car up onto the maximum stand notch/pin. And the new one gives me room to spare even.
Aye, doesn't look too bad does it? I was only referring, above, to the engine not dropping out if not supported. Of course anything else bolted to the subframe, like suspension arms and steering parts will need to be undone too. I notice they suggest painting marks between the body/chassis and subframe to aid refitting but this probably won't work for you as you're fitting a new subframe. Anyway, it'll only really make a difference if there's lots of slack around the mounting bolts which would allow the subframe to be misaligned - This was a problem on the Mondeo where special aligning bolts had to be used when reassembling. I doubt if it's going to be a problem for you but you could paint something like tippex on the body around the mountings so that a "ghost image" of where the old one lined up will aid you fitting the new subframe? I wouldn't stress out about it though, doubt if it'll be a problem? - anyone know any different?
Only other thing that comes to mind is to look out on an older car like this in case someone has routed fuel or brake lines, or replacement wiring, such that it obstructs removal of the old subframe.
When you're reassembling front wishbone inner mountings put the fixing bolts back through them but just do the nuts up finger tight and leave the final tightening until the car is resting on the ground in a fully settled condition. So run it back and forwards over, say 6 feet or so, a couple of times to fully settle the suspension at it's normal resting height before fully torque tightening them. This avoids the rubbers getting "wound up" which is what will happen if you fully tighten them with the car still up in the air and the suspension on "full droop" If you fail to do this the rubbers will fail prematurely. This advice applies to any rubber bush of this type so rear shocker lower mounts are another to think of if you're ever doing rear shocks.
To the uninitiated that doesn't look like a big difference does it? However, those who've worked with one of these wee jacks will know what a big difference that extra reach makes.
The wee red/orange coloured jack looks like it's got quite a big extension under it's saddle. I'd be interested to know how the closed - resting - heights of the old and new jacks compare? Looks like the wee red jack wouldn't go so low as the new one?
If you don't already have a jack puck/pad then it's a cheap addition that's well worth considering. It protects the sills from paint scratches - and later rust forming - and, because it's rubber and slotted, reduces the risk of the jack saddle slipping. You can make your own from a hockey puck I'm told and I make my own from wood with bits of old inner tube on top. They're so cheap though I'll just buy one when my home made one's are done. If you're wondering what I'm talking about it's this sort of thing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15581201...zx-KfOve-5I1OEvO6FJKd_7ueFiQv2ksaAq5dEALw_wcB
Edit, Just look at the second picture down on the left hand side of that Puck advert. See what I mean about these jacks all being made in the same factory, probably somewhere out east? If that's not a generic version of our 1153 I'll eat my hat!
PS check puck dimensions when buying, they seem to come in different diameters.
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
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The red/orange jack is about 5mm lower when resting but there's not much in it.
Thanks for the link to a jack puck/pad, i've needed one of these for a long time but not got round to it, but now's the time
Thanks for the link to a jack puck/pad, i've needed one of these for a long time but not got round to it, but now's the time
Just seen this at local auction, it won't end there but starting bid £1
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That does look nice. I would buy that in a second! Is that a general auction or a motor auction?
Look on their website, anyone can bid, but note Buyer collects!
Couple of other things come to mind. The Haynes manual recommends renewing the pinch bolt on the steering column and I would tend to do that myself as they can get bent and weakened when originally tightened. Watch out though they are often high tensile 10.9 not the less strong and more common 8.8. - look on the head and you'll often find the numbers there.
Also Mr Haynes recommends having the front wheel alignment checked as soon as possible. I'm pretty sure they really mean the Toe settings (in or out). This is probably a sound suggestion but if the old suspension bushes/ball joints/track rod ends were in good serviceable condition and you've bought a good quality subframe then I wouldn't get to het up about this. Yes, ideally it's a good idea because a small adjustment might be needed due to manufacturing tolerances in the new part. But if you've not been having problems with steering pulling to one side or excess/unusual tyre wear with the old subframe fitted then it's unlikely the new one is going to upset things much. If you decide not to spend the cash on having the toe in/out checked (a full alignment check is much more comprehensive and expensive so I don't think they are talking about an "alignment" check here although many tyre outlets refer to a simple toe in/out check as an "alignment" check) Then keep an eye on how the front tyres are wearing. If the wheels (talking about front wheels here of course, although rears can show abnormal wear too but are not usually easily sorted out if they do). What you're looking for is excessive wear on either inside or outside shoulder rubber (the edge of the tread) coupled often with "feathering" of the tread pattern. Shoulder wear is pretty easy to see just by looking at the tread area of the tyre but feathering can often be a little less obvious. If severe it presents as a "lipping" of the tread block pattern and what's causing it is that the front wheels are not running parallel to one another - either splayed out or in in other words. An easy way to check this is to stand to the side of the vehicle and, with the wheels in the straight ahead position, run the palm of your hand over the tread pattern at right angles. So in towards the centreline of the car and back out again. If the lipping is most noticeable when running your hand inwards then the wheels are "Toed out" or "splayed" if you like. If the opposite, most noticeable when dragging your hand back out over the tread, then they are "Toed in" Or "pidgeon toed" if you like? Ideally the edge of the grooves in the tread pattern should feel the same in both directions and neither shoulder excessively worn. However it's not an ideal world is it? so most cars will tend to wear their inner shoulders slightly more because, with rubber bushed front suspension the rubber bushes tend to "give" under braking which allows the front wheels to splay out slightly under braking thus wearing the inner shoulders more quickly. This gets worse the older the bushes and the harder the vehicle is braked. It's a vicious circle. the harder you brake the more the wheels splay out and the more you force them to splay out the more the bushes soften and degrade so the more your tyres wear. So, what's the lesson? Look well ahead and allow the car to loose way on it's own then brake gently if needed. Your wallet will appreciate it!
I run my hands over the tyre treads on our cars when I check the levels so probably once a fortnight on average - more often on the Scala and Panda because they are outside the front door and less often on the others because I don't see them so often. You can quickly pick up that you've got a problem by checking the tyres in this way and then go on to do a more detailed check if needed. Can be a little "mucky" if you've inconsiderate dog owners in your street!
Also Mr Haynes recommends having the front wheel alignment checked as soon as possible. I'm pretty sure they really mean the Toe settings (in or out). This is probably a sound suggestion but if the old suspension bushes/ball joints/track rod ends were in good serviceable condition and you've bought a good quality subframe then I wouldn't get to het up about this. Yes, ideally it's a good idea because a small adjustment might be needed due to manufacturing tolerances in the new part. But if you've not been having problems with steering pulling to one side or excess/unusual tyre wear with the old subframe fitted then it's unlikely the new one is going to upset things much. If you decide not to spend the cash on having the toe in/out checked (a full alignment check is much more comprehensive and expensive so I don't think they are talking about an "alignment" check here although many tyre outlets refer to a simple toe in/out check as an "alignment" check) Then keep an eye on how the front tyres are wearing. If the wheels (talking about front wheels here of course, although rears can show abnormal wear too but are not usually easily sorted out if they do). What you're looking for is excessive wear on either inside or outside shoulder rubber (the edge of the tread) coupled often with "feathering" of the tread pattern. Shoulder wear is pretty easy to see just by looking at the tread area of the tyre but feathering can often be a little less obvious. If severe it presents as a "lipping" of the tread block pattern and what's causing it is that the front wheels are not running parallel to one another - either splayed out or in in other words. An easy way to check this is to stand to the side of the vehicle and, with the wheels in the straight ahead position, run the palm of your hand over the tread pattern at right angles. So in towards the centreline of the car and back out again. If the lipping is most noticeable when running your hand inwards then the wheels are "Toed out" or "splayed" if you like. If the opposite, most noticeable when dragging your hand back out over the tread, then they are "Toed in" Or "pidgeon toed" if you like? Ideally the edge of the grooves in the tread pattern should feel the same in both directions and neither shoulder excessively worn. However it's not an ideal world is it? so most cars will tend to wear their inner shoulders slightly more because, with rubber bushed front suspension the rubber bushes tend to "give" under braking which allows the front wheels to splay out slightly under braking thus wearing the inner shoulders more quickly. This gets worse the older the bushes and the harder the vehicle is braked. It's a vicious circle. the harder you brake the more the wheels splay out and the more you force them to splay out the more the bushes soften and degrade so the more your tyres wear. So, what's the lesson? Look well ahead and allow the car to loose way on it's own then brake gently if needed. Your wallet will appreciate it!
I run my hands over the tyre treads on our cars when I check the levels so probably once a fortnight on average - more often on the Scala and Panda because they are outside the front door and less often on the others because I don't see them so often. You can quickly pick up that you've got a problem by checking the tyres in this way and then go on to do a more detailed check if needed. Can be a little "mucky" if you've inconsiderate dog owners in your street!
You could tow it homeLook on their website, anyone can bid, but note Buyer collects!
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Righto, I'll find a new pinch bolt. Its better to get one of those ASAP. Hope their not hard to find.
I have some toe in on my other car, probably the rear axle bushes, so I'm keeping track of one of the tyres there. Its hard to say if this car will need any tracking, but i'll heed your advice and keep checking the tyres on this car.
I'm still looking for a pad of the right diameter, it looks like 60mm is a common diameter but the new trolley jack has a diameter of 50mm. I can find one of the right diameter that sits inside the cup flat, but I want the 1cm line/ridge/hole (not sure if this is the right terminology).
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I'm currently trying to find the "steering collumn universal joint pinch bolt" for a 2010 Punto EVO using ePER, but not having much luck. Is it at the link below somewhere?
This is what it looks like.
This is what it looks like.
Is it bottom of page?:-I'm currently trying to find the "steering collumn universal joint pinch bolt" for a 2010 Punto EVO using ePER, but not having much luck. Is it at the link below somewhere?
| SCREW M10X35 |
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It could be Bolt 6 on that ePER page, M10X35 as you've indicated, but i'm not sure. I'm not familiar enough with the steering collumn.
Presumably the bolt you undo is nearest to the steering rack if dropping subframe?
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The illustrations all show it being used with the type of jack you've bought - ie. not a "proffessional" large jobbie. So I think it'll be fine.
As far as the pinch bolt goes, try giving Shop4parts a ring: 01274 734082. I've been buying stuff from them for years and find them very helpful with stuff like this. They are not "high pressure sales" people and I've been given good info by them without even buying anything. Useful to know they stock and/or can access more than they list on their website. I haven't ordered anything from them for a while, simply because I've not needed to, but there should be a discount code somewhere on the forum for them. You have to make a donation to forum funds to access it, but it doesn't have to be a large one. Worth looking into if you're making a large order.
Edit. Probably the shipping will be unacceptable on a small item like this, but they'll probably be able to give you the proper part number.
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I needed a jack “yesterday” so got a cheap trolley jack. It’s adequate for lifting a Panda. I put the swivel cup under the front subframe bolt so it can’t slip. That leaves enough room for the axle stand to go under the box section used with garage post lifts. A softwood block protects the paint and avoids any slipping.
It’s adequate when you accept the limitations. My axle stands are rated 2 tons each.
NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK.
It’s adequate when you accept the limitations. My axle stands are rated 2 tons each.
NEVER EVER GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK.
