Technical Old wives tales or not

[bugsymike]

It is recommended to drive away promptly to help warm up, as with the engine working, it will generate more heat than when idling. Until warm, it injects excess fuel, which will rinse the bores, causing more wear, so if possible to drive away gently, that will be better long term than idling until warm. Has to idle when I'm scraping the ice off of course. In that situation, have the blower on 1 only, not higher, or the higher airflow will cool the coolant and delay warmup. Increase the fan only when the temp gauge moves off the stop. The Panda climate control does this automatically, great fun as it winds it up, like a jet taking off.

If oil additives were necessary, or beneficial, the engine manufacturers would include them in their required specification, or the oil manufacturers would include them. They tend to improve one function, such as lubrication, but may reduce the oil's ability to neutralise combustion acids, or to carry soot to the filter.

Injector cleaner seems to be beneficial, if dosed once or twice a year. Especially on mechanical injection diesels. My brother has had a few old diesels, smoking when bought, dosed with injector cleaner, then again a month later, then annually. The smoking disappears.

The turbo cleaner additive certainly helped one of my daughters VW Golf TDI 130Hp with VVT ( variable vane technology) , pottering around town the vanes would gum up causing limp mode when she did finally boot it, but a can every couple of months did the trick

 

[Yolanda]

Just a thought here. I know absolutely nothing about the 1.3 JTD engine, but if you removed the head could you not work on removing the injector that way. Or is it not direct injection if that's the case wouldn't you just need a new inlet manifold.

 

[bugsymike]

Just a thought here. I know absolutely nothing about the 1.3 JTD engine, but if you removed the head could you not work on removing the injector that way. Or is it not direct injection if that's the case wouldn't you just need a new inlet manifold.

In an ideal World yes, but on these little diesels the injectors go through the cam cover which in turn needs to come off to remove head bolts,.
So much for progress .

 

[Ralf S.]

I tend to drive off gently and leave the beast to warm up before I use too many revs. My old Alfa 155 v6 had 206,000 miles, my 145 ran to 152,000 and my Stilo to 209,000, all with minimal engine oil consumption... so it's not too bad for the engine.

Injector cleaners - I use 100ml per tank of petrol of kerosene, which is 80-90% of what's in RedEx. The rest is Toluene and Acetone etc. but I don't fancy having litres of those lying around in the garage, so I just go with the kerosene. I never had any injector problems (all of the above are/were still on their original factory injectors). When the 145 lost its cam-belt (water pump failed) and holed a piston, I had all the injectors ultra-sonically cleaned. The "before" had them running between 94 and 96% efficiency. Afterwards they were 96-98%, so the kerosene obviously didn't hurt them too much.

For the diesel, I blanked off the EGR and made sure the turbo boost valve was good. They typically lasted 100k for me and the car would get noticeably smokey when the valve died. Otherwise, I'd feed it a combination of Ethyl Hexyl Nitrate (heptane booster) and a home-made kerosene/propanol mixture which again, is most of what's in a lot of proprietary cleaners like Cataclean etc. The intake manifold was fairly nasty but it's a Direct Injection engine so it's a design compromise. I cleaned it out every now and again.. but you ideally need to remove the manifold and blast it. Chemicals alone didn't do it.


Ralf S.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I think the injector itself is toast. If it does not work, I've wasted £70 and have a scrap engine. It's the risk you take.

There's always this option: https://www.injector-removal-service.co.uk/injector-removal/ But i suspect you'll need very deep pockets?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Personally I believe in starting the engine and, as long as stuff like oil light, alternator light, little cold engine "tappy noises" (like the Fire engine's cam follower rattle), all settle down then drive straight off, but gently without either labouring or applying excess revs to the engine. Just drive it lightly loaded. I do this until I judge the engine oil is up to at least 3/4 of full operating temp. My newish Ibiza can display it's oil temp on the little panel between the speedo and rev counter and I've observed that reasonable oil temperature is achieved in roughly twice the time it takes the coolant to reach full operating temperature. This engine is turboed so I'd expect it to heat it's oil more quickly than a normally aspirated engine so it's probably the case that many engines won't achieve full operating temperature of the oil for about three times as long as it takes the coolant to register "normal". It's good to keep this in mind before mashing the throttle to the floor?

I don't believe in oil additives at all, preferring to spend my money on a really good oil in the first place, especially where transmission oils are concerned. Fuel additives, especially for injector and system cleaning, I do believe have a roll to play. I'm running this stuff: https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6900-p-max-advanced-petrol-synthesis.html in the Ibiza just now in the hope it may slow the build up of carbon deposits in it's direct injection inlet tract. Probably won't make much difference, but I can hope - suspect I'll be doing a bit of walnut blasting if I keep her long enough?

Although early on in my career I saw a lot of BL diesels - With their old CAV In line and DPA type pumps (still got my swan neck for spill timing!) the only newer diesels I've looked at have been the old pre PD and then the PD VAG engines. Looked at the 1.6 CR in my boy's last car (Fabia Scout) but rapidly withdrew and punted it to the specialist quick time! The older engines used to clog up their EGR, inlet manifold and inlet ports but good! Take a look on you tube for some entertaining videos of people with innovative ways to clear the deposits! I couldn't believe my old VE 1.9 tdi could still run with how much the inlet manifold bores were closed down to!

Regarding tools, I too have many of my old Britools still as well as some King Dick and German Hazet open enders which seem to resist spreading jaws much better than more modern stuff. I also still have my first serious tool purchase, a 1960's German made Kampfman socket set with Whit and AF sockets, bought while i was still in college and, just occasionally, they still get me out of trouble when hammered onto modern worn/corroded fixings. Never owned, or lusted after, anything with Snap On stamped on it. Also agree that for "serious" home use stuff from the Halfords advance/professional range, Draper, Laser, Neilsen and many other "middle of the road" brand names are really very acceptable and a good alternative at a reasonable price if you're not earning your daily bread with them.

 

[Motorcyclist Colin]

I would say if you are going to"Drive it like you stole it", then drive off straight away gently, until temp. gauge in the middle/normal before you flog the t*ts off it and it will last longer.
Bigger diesels always sound quieter when warmed up and all the metals have expanded.
Re additives, generally modern oils and fuels should be up to the job on their own.
Re tools, I have most of my Brittool combination spanners Whitworth, A/F , Metric that I got as an apprentice over 52 years ago, I have never been impressed by shedloads of over priced Snap On tools in a cabinet big enough for some people to live in, even more so when they cost more than I spend on most of my cars!

"...generally modern oils and fuels should be up to the job" "generally... maybe" but not necessarily so for really old vehicles .
I was forced to fill my Egli Vincent Godet Sport with E10. on one occassion and the bike ran so badly, overheating, very down on power that when I stopped it stalled and flatly refused to start till cold and diluted with some Esso E5.
I never was a professional mechanic (apart from a short stint as an RAC road patrol on a side valve Norton and box sidecar) but I too still have my 1950s Brittool spanners. In those days mid late 50s, the RAC supplied your bike, your uniform, (except boots and gloves, no idea why not) some. minimal training, but NO TOOLS, youwere expected to have/buy these yourself. Some of the working conditions would not be tolerated these days

 

[Ralf S.]

I've got a few Snap-On pieces, but generally as a replacement for anything I break, since that would be the Universe's way of telling me the cheaper tool wasn't up to it. I inherited a 1/2" drive "No.7" ratchet from my old dad and that must be 50 years old now and it's still perfect. It's a lot smoother, almost Swiss-watch like, compared to a modern 3/8" Hilka I bought as a starter 3/8" set (1/2" are getting heavier for me these days).

On the strength of the No.7, I bought a 1/4" drive T72, since it has 72 teeth @ 5 degrees per tooth, which at the time was an improvement on the more usual 60 teeth (@ 6 degrees) ratchets available. It's also machined better than a cheaper ratchet (e.g. the Halfords Prodessional that it replaced) so suffers from less ratchet stall.... (yes, there is such a thing.. ) which is handy when trying to undo a bolt in a tight spot. The newer Halfords Advanced are very good though, so I'm collecting more and more pieces from that range.

I do have some old ("vintage") Gordon sockets ("made in Sheffield" .. youngsters ask your dads) with some wear but never broke one, and Stahlwille spanners ("made in West Germany".. youngsters ask your dads) as above...... but in terms of which ones I actually want to lick, it's still Snap-On for me..


Ralf S.

 

[Yolanda]

I've still got a few Britools and the like from early years but sadly there AF but there are the odd one or two that fit metric nuts/bolts but I can't think which sizes. And that could be because the spanner is a bit worn.

 

[vexorg]

From cold I would always let it idle for 10-15 seconds or so, then by the time I back out the drive and get seatbelt on, maybe a minute or so. However I do tend to drive it gently for the first few miles until things warm up. And being a modern diesel, it takes forever to heat on idle.

As for tools, I've found halfords professional to be very good, and all with lifetime warranty - that they seem to stick to, not had any issue changing the few bits I've broke.

 

[bugsymike]

Personally I believe in starting the engine and, as long as stuff like oil light, alternator light, little cold engine "tappy noises" (like the Fire engine's cam follower rattle), all settle down then drive straight off, but gently without either labouring or applying excess revs to the engine. Just drive it lightly loaded. I do this until I judge the engine oil is up to at least 3/4 of full operating temp. My newish Ibiza can display it's oil temp on the little panel between the speedo and rev counter and I've observed that reasonable oil temperature is achieved in roughly twice the time it takes the coolant to reach full operating temperature. This engine is turboed so I'd expect it to heat it's oil more quickly than a normally aspirated engine so it's probably the case that many engines won't achieve full operating temperature of the oil for about three times as long as it takes the coolant to register "normal". It's good to keep this in mind before mashing the throttle to the floor?

I don't believe in oil additives at all, preferring to spend my money on a really good oil in the first place, especially where transmission oils are concerned. Fuel additives, especially for injector and system cleaning, I do believe have a roll to play. I'm running this stuff: https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar6900-p-max-advanced-petrol-synthesis.html in the Ibiza just now in the hope it may slow the build up of carbon deposits in it's direct injection inlet tract. Probably won't make much difference, but I can hope - suspect I'll be doing a bit of walnut blasting if I keep her long enough?

Although early on in my career I saw a lot of BL diesels - With their old CAV In line and DPA type pumps (still got my swan neck for spill timing!) the only newer diesels I've looked at have been the old pre PD and then the PD VAG engines. Looked at the 1.6 CR in my boy's last car (Fabia Scout) but rapidly withdrew and punted it to the specialist quick time! The older engines used to clog up their EGR, inlet manifold and inlet ports but good! Take a look on you tube for some entertaining videos of people with innovative ways to clear the deposits! I couldn't believe my old VE 1.9 tdi could still run with how much the inlet manifold bores were closed down to!

Regarding tools, I too have many of my old Britools still as well as some King Dick and German Hazet open enders which seem to resist spreading jaws much better than more modern stuff. I also still have my first serious tool purchase, a 1960's German made Kampfman socket set with Whit and AF sockets, bought while i was still in college and, just occasionally, they still get me out of trouble when hammered onto modern worn/corroded fixings. Never owned, or lusted after, anything with Snap On stamped on it. Also agree that for "serious" home use stuff from the Halfords advance/professional range, Draper, Laser, Neilsen and many other "middle of the road" brand names are really very acceptable and a good alternative at a reasonable price if you're not earning your daily bread with them.

The last time I did spill port timing Jock, was in the 1980s when I fitted a York diesel engine in my Land Rover, I seem to recall setting at 12 degrees using a kids protractor on the crank pulley, same sort of speed as Land Rover diesel but another 5 Mpg in every day use.
Gordon and Stahwillie? were well known good quality too, Colin was it RAC or AA Motor cyclists that had to salute if no speed cops about?

 

[Bonefish Blues]

The only Snap On tools I own have been 'donations' I've found under the bonnet, in the boot and so on. I had no idea they were so expensive

 

[bugsymike]

The only Snap On tools I own have been 'donations' I've found under the bonnet, in the boot and so on. I had no idea they were so expensive

My three sets of Britool combination spanners came as a £5 award for being the best practical student of my year at college along with my name in the local paper, I did get the joke in first, by saying "it doesn't say much for the rest of them" .
The spanners are still going strong, but you couldn't buy the smallest one for that price these days.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

The last time I did spill port timing Jock, was in the 1980s when I fitted a York diesel engine in my Land Rover, I seem to recall setting at 12 degrees using a kids protractor on the crank pulley, same sort of speed as Land Rover diesel but another 5 Mpg in every day use.
Gordon and Stahwillie? were well known good quality too, Colin was it RAC or AA Motor cyclists that had to salute if no speed cops about?

Sorry if I'm stealing your thunder Colin but I seem to have early memories of my father being saluted by the AA man when i was just old enough to be allowed to sit in the front seat beside him. that would have been the Standard Vanguard i think, complete with it's "slidy" bench front seat - no belts of course.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

The last time I did spill port timing Jock, was in the 1980s when I fitted a York diesel engine in my Land Rover, I seem to recall setting at 12 degrees using a kids protractor on the crank pulley, same sort of speed as Land Rover diesel but another 5 Mpg in every day use.
Gordon and Stahwillie? were well known good quality too, Colin was it RAC or AA Motor cyclists that had to salute if no speed cops about?

Strange how those sort of figures seem to stick in the mind isn't it - even after all those years. Can't remember if I put on fresh pants this morning but seem to remember that earlier "B" series had valve clearances set to 10 thou both inlet and exhaust but later ones had the exhausts increased to 12 thou? Unusual on the older engines in that it was the same for both inlet and exhaust. Or has my addled brain gone off on one again?

Well, sister in law and wife are once more in charge of the TV so it's Eastenders on iplayer and other such fair. Hence why I'm on here - to retain some vestige of sanity. Anyway, got me to thinking about the makes of tools in my boxes so I've been having a rummage in my "everyday in use" tools. There's other stuff in boxes on shelves which haven't seen the light of day in years (must have a look at them too before I'm too old to be interested.)

So, apart from my big name stuff like the Britool sockets, power bar and various spanners, what names did I find? Well the first thing I dug up was a set of Gordon (Sheffield) "semi dumpy" ring keys which I'd forgotten were in the same drawer as my Gedore (Germany) full size ring keys - mostly I reach for my single hex sockets these days so these ring keys don't often come out to play. Then there's an older set of Draper Professional combination spanners which I've had for years and never managed to break. Others which stand out are Elora (W. Germany) and Teng (W. Germany) The latter combination spanners have been a bit of a disappointment, unlike the Elora, because on the most used sizes the chrome is flaking off and can cut your hands if you're not careful. Luckily though they are AF sizes so I don't use them often. Williams Superslim - mostly for working on brakes, split rings and bleed nipple tools. Wonderful spanners which I've had since I started off all those years ago. A set of early Draper, made in India, AF size ring keys which seem to have survived (I found older tools made in India were generally unreliable so don't know why these ones have lasted so well). A fair selection of different Halfords Professional and Advance stuff which seems to be doing well. Sealey and Bergen sockets which take a lot of work and are doing well, especially the Bergen XI-ON deep sockets which I absolutely wouldn't be without. Footprint screwdrivers of various sizes and a couple of Footprint wrenches. There are more buried deeper and in ones and twos I won't mention apart from the Kampman socket set all of which has survived since the 60s except the ratchet and a Swinborne socket set given me by an old boy who struck up a conversation in my driveway a couple of summers ago when I was rebuilding the front suspension on our Panda. I don't use the whit and AF sockets from it but the extensions and especially the very robust ratchet are often in use to supplement my other socket stuff.

It's been great fun rummaging through stuff I don't often disturb and turning up "old friends" I haven't used in years - sure beats watching the "telly"

 

[koalar]

Engine flushes

We have had two failures recently

Fine before, knocking afterwards

Personally I would expect it to be more likely for an engines to leak like a sieve if it’s a high milage

Once could be coincidence. Twice is unlikely

 

[bugsymike]

Strange how those sort of figures seem to stick in the mind isn't it - even after all those years. Can't remember if I put on fresh pants this morning but seem to remember that earlier "B" series had valve clearances set to 10 thou both inlet and exhaust but later ones had the exhausts increased to 12 thou? Unusual on the older engines in that it was the same for both inlet and exhaust. Or has my addled brain gone off on one again?

Well, sister in law and wife are once more in charge of the TV so it's Eastenders on iplayer and other such fair. Hence why I'm on here - to retain some vestige of sanity. Anyway, got me to thinking about the makes of tools in my boxes so I've been having a rummage in my "everyday in use" tools. There's other stuff in boxes on shelves which haven't seen the light of day in years (must have a look at them too before I'm too old to be interested.)

So, apart from my big name stuff like the Britool sockets, power bar and various spanners, what names did I find? Well the first thing I dug up was a set of Gordon (Sheffield) "semi dumpy" ring keys which I'd forgotten were in the same drawer as my Gedore (Germany) full size ring keys - mostly I reach for my single hex sockets these days so these ring keys don't often come out to play. Then there's an older set of Draper Professional combination spanners which I've had for years and never managed to break. Others which stand out are Elora (W. Germany) and Teng (W. Germany) The latter combination spanners have been a bit of a disappointment, unlike the Elora, because on the most used sizes the chrome is flaking off and can cut your hands if you're not careful. Luckily though they are AF sizes so I don't use them often. Williams Superslim - mostly for working on brakes, split rings and bleed nipple tools. Wonderful spanners which I've had since I started off all those years ago. A set of early Draper, made in India, AF size ring keys which seem to have survived (I found older tools made in India were generally unreliable so don't know why these ones have lasted so well). A fair selection of different Halfords Professional and Advance stuff which seems to be doing well. Sealey and Bergen sockets which take a lot of work and are doing well, especially the Bergen XI-ON deep sockets which I absolutely wouldn't be without. Footprint screwdrivers of various sizes and a couple of Footprint wrenches. There are more buried deeper and in ones and twos I won't mention apart from the Kampman socket set all of which has survived since the 60s except the ratchet and a Swinborne socket set given me by an old boy who struck up a conversation in my driveway a couple of summers ago when I was rebuilding the front suspension on our Panda. I don't use the whit and AF sockets from it but the extensions and especially the very robust ratchet are often in use to supplement my other socket stuff.

It's been great fun rummaging through stuff I don't often disturb and turning up "old friends" I haven't used in years - sure beats watching the "telly"

With out looking it up I thought A series were 12 thou and B series Austin A60s MGBs etc were 15 thou? Now what did I have for breakfast yesterday?
By the way 75 foot pound torque Ford OHV pre cross flow cylinder head bolts anyone?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

With out looking it up I thought A series were 12 thou and B series Austin A60s MGBs etc were 15 thou? Now what did I have for breakfast yesterday?
By the way 75 foot pound torque Ford OHV pre cross flow cylinder head bolts anyone?

Aye, you're right on the valve clearances. I just checked in my data books and both confirm it, advising it be done "cold". So what am I thinking about? Imps? or maybe Allegro or Maxi OHC? I just don't know. Oh how I hate this getting old! My book seems to recommend 65/70 Lb FT for the pre crossflow 1100 Escort but it's not a manufacturer official publication. Temple press car service data compiled by J N Seale.

 

[bugsymike]

Aye, you're right on the valve clearances. I just checked in my data books and both confirm it, advising it be done "cold". So what am I thinking about? Imps? or maybe Allegro or Maxi OHC? I just don't know. Oh how I hate this getting old! My book seems to recommend 65/70 Lb FT for the pre crossflow 1100 Escort but it's not a manufacturer official publication. Temple press car service data compiled by J N Seale.

Hi Jock, I am not sure about the earlier ones, was the Austin A50s 1200cc you mentioned the very early B series? I remember doing a clutch on a Austin Devon pick up and the nuts and bolts (Whitworth?)that held the bellhousing, there was one right behind the distributor that was a pain to access, that and column change rods in the way also. The fact it was a local farmers work vehicle, covered in cow crap and I was working on a outside ramp/pit in winter time didn't help!
I did have a look at an old Haynes for Mk 2 Cortinas, but most of them were crossflow 1300cc and 1600cc, I think the 1100cc was a crossflow in the Fiestas. That agreed with you at 65/70ft lbs, so maybe the "old timers disease" hasn't quite caught you yet .
The Mk 1 Cortina was 1200cc and 1500cc pre crossflow and Anglia 105E was 997cc and 1200cc pre crossflow, there was a Ford Classic which had a 1340cc or 1500cc engine. The 1500cc was the strongest engine as it had a 5 main bearing crank all the other pre crossflow were three bearing including the 1340cc which allowed me to make a 1340cc capacity of one of my 997cc Ford Anglia engines simply by changing the crankshaft and conrods to increase the stroke, so externally looking at the engine it was a 997cc, though as I kept the original 997cc cylinder head even with 5 star petrol pinking due to the very much higher compression and my driving soon knocked the bottom end out of it!
Another bit of useless information I have just recalled was those pre crossflow Ford engine blocks had a casting number and the number nearest to the highest T12 was the thickest block for any oversize boring etc. I had an excellent little book at the time called Tuning Small Fords.
We always used Glasses Technical Service Books, I was sorry when Auto Data took over, I had a pile of the Glasses TSD a foot high and should have kept them. It was the 75ft lbs I seemed to recall from there, but as the bosses had a strong family connection with the local Ford dealers maybe that was their preferred setting. Though they didn't pay highly , they were very good to work for and I learnt a lot from them, also they allowed me to use all the facilities for my own vehicles evenings and weekends.
Here is a question, can you remember the first clutch job you did on your own,? Mine was a 1147cc? Triumph Herald and with the seats right back you did most of it from inside the car after removing carpet and largest "compressed cardboard" cover held in by lots of tiny screws and you undid the front bolts of the propshaft only , then pushed it to one side.

 

[DaveMcT]

The best cleaner for plastic inlet manifolds is good old caustic soda. Just dump it into a strong solution and leave to fester. It's also fine with steel and cast iron but VERY not good for aluminium. It will fizz nicely as your parts quickly dissolve.

Biodiesel (methyl ester) is a great solvent. Fill your tank with 100% and marvel at the mat of gunk it lifts off the tank bottom and how quickly your engine stops with a clogged fuel filter. You absolutely have to fully clean the tank (or swap it for a petrol tank) before using significant %age of biodiesel. As a fuel it's great. Despite some crappy press articles saying it was high NOx, the actual emissions are no worse than Dino diesel and because it keeps the engine clean it's probably a lot better than Dino.

You can easily make a litre in a pop bottle or five in a spare petrol can. Larger amounts need purpose made equipment.

Mix 5 grams of caustic soda with 200ml of methanol into a clean pouring jug. Take care with gloves and face shield - its nasty stuff.
Put 800 ml of vege oil heated to 50 degs C into a pop bottle.
Pour in the "methoxide" mixture fit the cap and shake for a minute.
Leave the mix to settle. After a while you will see a dark layer forming at the bottom. This is a glycerol soap. The stuff above is methyl ester. It will still have some caustic elements but it can be washed by carefully swilling with an equal amount of water and allowing to settle. If you made it for cleaning purposes that washing is probably not necessary.

I just looked on eBay you can buy 20 litres of methanol for under £40 or 1 litre for £10. It's a nasty neurotoxin so always use it outside while wearing appropriate gloves and face shield. User beware etc etc.

Edit - The methanol is reacted with the oil removing its toxicity but without lab testing for ingredient volumes it's probably not 100% converted so treat the ester as you would any fuel.