Technical Nine year service items...

[Herts Hillhopper]

Did fiat not change the service interval from 18.000 down to 9.000 I’ve used AUTODOC before especially when buying springs I like the info they give you on parts

Not quite: Fiat changed the 'inspection' interval to once avery 9000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first... but the oil change interval remained at 18,000 miles (or annually for low-mileage cars). I still suspect they doubled the frequency of checks because too many cars were being found with warranty claims or worn out brakes . It's OK if you are the sort of person who checks the fluids, brakes, tyres etc at least once a month, but for those who don;topen the bonnet from one service to the next, a lot can deteriorate in 18000 miles! I also think they later changed thei oil change interval to 9k miles too, but only for the TwinAir. Modern oils and modern bearings should be well able to last at least a year, or at least 12000 miles -- so long as looked after (eg allowed to warm up fully before being stressed). Plenty of car makes still have 'extended service intervals' (eg VW/Audi/Skoda who offer a two year or 24000 mile service interval)

 

[SB1500]

The locking kit came a couple of days ago. I think when we’re done with this, I’ll donate it to someone on the forum here who wants to attempt the job since it’ll be another 7 years before it’ll be needed again and we’ve accumulated quite a lot of specific eBay car kits (be it brake piston pushers or pumps for brake fluid or coolant or gearbox oil etc!).

Got an email this morning from Evri to say they have the AUTODOC parcel. It’s gonna be a big one.. Is there anything more exciting than receiving car parts in the post?

Silicone sealer for the rocker cover and any other parts that need sealed - is that right?

 

[AB100]

Is there anything more exciting than receiving car parts in the post?

LA Guns cover of Bowie's 'Moonage daydream' comes pretty close I'd say.

 

[SB1500]

Here are the parts!!! Exciting.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Fiat did reduce the service interval from 18000 to 9000 around 2017. If they actually did anything usefuk, other than oil changes, it might make sense. Why do they waste time... at £200an hour checking the level of the windscreen washer? Id say that is a b liberty as well as a p taking!

 

[SB1500]

Okay, so drafted myself up a quick 'idiots guide' and order in which to do things, so far this is what I have... which will need a lot of refinement before being good enough to help anyone else.. but posting in case anyone has the time to make any suggestions for any of the steps... always keen to hear!


Panda Major Service

Order of tasks:

1. Timing Belt, Water Pump & Tensioner Change
2. Coolant ^
3. Alternator Belt ^
4. Spark Plugs ^
5. Air Filter ^
6. Oil & Filter
7. Brake Fluid

W E A R G L O V E S


TIMING BELT …

1. Support the oil sump with the jack
2. Disconnect car battery
3. Remove the auxiliary belt* (see below)
4. Remove centre bolts in the bottom big pulley
5. Remove 10mm bolt on plastic timing cover trim
6. Remove 10mm bolt for air box on both sides, squeeze off air intake pipe on right (10mm at front holding it)
7. Pull side and back pipe from under air box off to free it
8. Unplug connector on right side of engine top
9. Undo behind and forward 10mm bolts connected to it, pop loom off and set aside to right
10. There is a lower right connector lower than the right air box bolt hole, disconnect it
11. Remove coil pack (10mm 3 bolts around it), unplug connector on back left of it
12. Push coil pack back out of the way
13. Remove the rocker cover, pop off plastic clips holding pipe along the front of it in
14. Undo the bolts for the rocker cover (8mm?)
15. Remove the bolt down on the front of the engine, left of the exhaust heat shield which holds timing plastic cover trim in place
16. Double check jack supporting engine
17. Undo crankshaft sensor connector at the bottom of the engines left side
18. Remove left engine support (right bolts 50mm, left bolts 70mm) IMPACT GUN
19. Lift up to remove engine mount
20. Jack the engine up slightly if needed for next bolts, may loosen all for now and try turning it right to release before jacking!
21. Remove 15mm bolts on the engine mount (one is hidden at the bottom too)
22. Remove rear 10mm bolt from timing cover / back of engine
23. Peel off stocker over timing cover to reveal last bolt on the timing cover to remove it
24. Timing cover should come off, but carefully pull out routed wire that goes through it and remember place
25. TAKE A PHOTO OF EXISTING BELT
26. If not already done, take off 8mm bolts around the rocker cover
27. Ensure crank pulley at bottom notch points UP (check pic)
28. At the top, use metal [ bracket to lock cam, using bolts from rocker to hold it, tighten
    • You still need to mark the position of the camshaft VVT sprocket because it can move independently of the actual camshaft. Make sure it doesn't move when the cam belt is removed.
29. Line up bottom crank tool (spanner looking one) with the dot on the 7 o’clock position) which should line up with top bolt hole on engine. Lock with bolts that belong here
30. Check nothing can slip, crank or cam
31. Release the tensioner pulley with a 13mm
32. Pull off old Timing Belt
33. Undo nut from tensioner pulley and slide it off
34. PREPARE BUCKET ON FLOOR TO CATCH OLD COOLANT
35. Remove water pump 10mm bolts, including hidden lower left one, use small extension to access it
36. Pry off old water pump, may need breaker bar or big flat head screwdriver
37. Screw on new water pump and gasket (with sealer)
38. Slide on new tensioner pulley
39. Put new belt on as the old one picture shows, start with crank at bottom. Tensioner should budge to allow it on for now.
40. Ensure belt is tight on water pump side. Check teeth to ensure right. Looseness under tensioner is fine until tightened.
41. Check sitting fine at crank as well so it won’t slip
42. Use locking kit tool to tighten tensioner (up loosens, down tightens) - ensure it lines up (down?)
43. Remove the locking tool from the top
44. Remove the locking tool from the bottom
45. TURNAROUND POINT
46. Refit Rocker Cover with new gasket / sealant and allow to cure
    • “If you remove the rocker cover there are O ring oil seals underneath for the oil gallery contained within the cover. Make sure they go back in position.”
47. Refit bolts for rocker cover 8mm
48. Re-route wire through the top side timing cover trim carefully
49. Re-do the timing cover bolt that was covered by the sticker
50. Refit rear timing cover bolts / all other timing cover bolts possible (including back of engine one)
51. Refit the engine mounted mount piece, turning it right to fit in with bottom bolts fed through it, don’t forget hidden one near back to be tightened too
52. Lower / heighten jack to bring engine level with mount if done before
53. Drop engine mount down onto its bolts (piece that’s on the chassis side)
54. Tighten 50mm right bolts, 70mm left bolts on engine mount
55. Reconned crankshaft sensor at bottom of engine left side
56. Re-do bolt on front of engine on the left of the exhaust heat shield holding timing plastic cover trim in place
57. If not already done, tighten 8mm rocker cover bolts
58. Re-clip plastic clips holding in the wire along the front of the rocker cover
    1. CHANGE SPARK PLUGS NOW
59. Refit coil pack in place, tighten 10mm 3 bolts around it and re-connect connector
60. Reconnect air filter box (right and rear pipes slide back onto it), push down into place
    1. CHANGE AIR FILTER NOW
61. Re-connect lower right connector near the air box right bolt holt
62. Re-tighten bolts connected to the connector pushed out of the way to the right and re-connect the connector itself. Pop the loom back into its place / holder
63. Reconnect air box air pipe to front grille (pop into place and do 10mm bolt near front)
64. Tighten 10mm bolt on plastic timing cover trim
65. Re-righten centre bolts on bottom big pulley
    1. REPLACE AUXILIARY BELT NOW
66. Re-tighten auxiliary belt / alternator in place
67. Reconnect car battery

DO NOT START THE CAR
DO NOT START THE CAR

1. CHANGE OIL & FILTER NOW
   1. Loosen cap
   2. Prepare buckets underneath
   3. Drain sump
   4. Remove old filter
   5. Refit new filter
   6. Close sump plug
   7. Refill with engine oil
2. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT NOW
   1. 4.85L near full container but do less and burp as some left in system
3. The car may now be started.
   1. Check oil level - TOP UP AS NEEDED
   2. Check coolant level - TOP UP AS NEEDED
   3. Cycle hot / cold on heater and loosen air bleed valve once up to temperature
4. REPLACE BRAKE FLUID NOW

And that's it... 71 convenient steps... fingers crossed minimal disruptions

Edited to add in @KPat 's helpful notes in an earlier post

 

[Big gerry]

Okay, so drafted myself up a quick 'idiots guide' and order in which to do things, so far this is what I have... which will need a lot of refinement before being good enough to help anyone else.. but posting in case anyone has the time to make any suggestions for any of the steps... always keen to hear!


Panda Major Service

Order of tasks:

1. Timing Belt, Water Pump & Tensioner Change
2. Coolant ^
3. Alternator Belt ^
4. Spark Plugs ^
5. Air Filter ^
6. Oil & Filter
7. Brake Fluid

W E A R G L O V E S


TIMING BELT …

1. Support the oil sump with the jack
2. Disconnect car battery
3. Remove the auxiliary belt* (see below)
4. Remove centre bolts in the bottom big pulley
5. Remove 10mm bolt on plastic timing cover trim
6. Remove 10mm bolt for air box on both sides, squeeze off air intake pipe on right (10mm at front holding it)
7. Pull side and back pipe from under air box off to free it
8. Unplug connector on right side of engine top
9. Undo behind and forward 10mm bolts connected to it, pop loom off and set aside to right
10. There is a lower right connector lower than the right air box bolt hole, disconnect it
11. Remove coil pack (10mm 3 bolts around it), unplug connector on back left of it
12. Push coil pack back out of the way
13. Remove the rocker cover, pop off plastic clips holding pipe along the front of it in
14. Undo the bolts for the rocker cover (8mm?)
15. Remove the bolt down on the front of the engine, left of the exhaust heat shield which holds timing plastic cover trim in place
16. Double check jack supporting engine
17. Undo crankshaft sensor connector at the bottom of the engines left side
18. Remove left engine support (right bolts 50mm, left bolts 70mm) IMPACT GUN
19. Lift up to remove engine mount
20. Jack the engine up slightly if needed for next bolts, may loosen all for now and try turning it right to release before jacking!
21. Remove 15mm bolts on the engine mount (one is hidden at the bottom too)
22. Remove rear 10mm bolt from timing cover / back of engine
23. Peel off stocker over timing cover to reveal last bolt on the timing cover to remove it
24. Timing cover should come off, but carefully pull out routed wire that goes through it and remember place
25. TAKE A PHOTO OF EXISTING BELT
26. If not already done, take off 8mm bolts around the rocker cover
27. Ensure crank pulley at bottom notch points UP (check pic)
28. At the top, use metal [ bracket to lock cam, using bolts from rocker to hold it, tighten
    • You still need to mark the position of the camshaft VVT sprocket because it can move independently of the actual camshaft. Make sure it doesn't move when the cam belt is removed.
29. Line up bottom crank tool (spanner looking one) with the dot on the 7 o’clock position) which should line up with top bolt hole on engine. Lock with bolts that belong here
30. Check nothing can slip, crank or cam
31. Release the tensioner pulley with a 13mm
32. Pull off old Timing Belt
33. Undo nut from tensioner pulley and slide it off
34. PREPARE BUCKET ON FLOOR TO CATCH OLD COOLANT
35. Remove water pump 10mm bolts, including hidden lower left one, use small extension to access it
36. Pry off old water pump, may need breaker bar or big flat head screwdriver
37. Screw on new water pump and gasket (with sealer)
38. Slide on new tensioner pulley
39. Put new belt on as the old one picture shows, start with crank at bottom. Tensioner should budge to allow it on for now.
40. Ensure belt is tight on water pump side. Check teeth to ensure right. Looseness under tensioner is fine until tightened.
41. Check sitting fine at crank as well so it won’t slip
42. Use locking kit tool to tighten tensioner (up loosens, down tightens) - ensure it lines up (down?)
43. Remove the locking tool from the top
44. Remove the locking tool from the bottom
45. TURNAROUND POINT
46. Refit Rocker Cover with new gasket / sealant and allow to cure
    • “If you remove the rocker cover there are O ring oil seals underneath for the oil gallery contained within the cover. Make sure they go back in position.”
47. Refit bolts for rocker cover 8mm
48. Re-route wire through the top side timing cover trim carefully
49. Re-do the timing cover bolt that was covered by the sticker
50. Refit rear timing cover bolts / all other timing cover bolts possible (including back of engine one)
51. Refit the engine mounted mount piece, turning it right to fit in with bottom bolts fed through it, don’t forget hidden one near back to be tightened too
52. Lower / heighten jack to bring engine level with mount if done before
53. Drop engine mount down onto its bolts (piece that’s on the chassis side)
54. Tighten 50mm right bolts, 70mm left bolts on engine mount
55. Reconned crankshaft sensor at bottom of engine left side
56. Re-do bolt on front of engine on the left of the exhaust heat shield holding timing plastic cover trim in place
57. If not already done, tighten 8mm rocker cover bolts
58. Re-clip plastic clips holding in the wire along the front of the rocker cover
    1. CHANGE SPARK PLUGS NOW
59. Refit coil pack in place, tighten 10mm 3 bolts around it and re-connect connector
60. Reconnect air filter box (right and rear pipes slide back onto it), push down into place
    1. CHANGE AIR FILTER NOW
61. Re-connect lower right connector near the air box right bolt holt
62. Re-tighten bolts connected to the connector pushed out of the way to the right and re-connect the connector itself. Pop the loom back into its place / holder
63. Reconnect air box air pipe to front grille (pop into place and do 10mm bolt near front)
64. Tighten 10mm bolt on plastic timing cover trim
65. Re-righten centre bolts on bottom big pulley
    1. REPLACE AUXILIARY BELT NOW
66. Re-tighten auxiliary belt / alternator in place
67. Reconnect car battery

DO NOT START THE CAR
DO NOT START THE CAR

1. CHANGE OIL & FILTER NOW
   1. Loosen cap
   2. Prepare buckets underneath
   3. Drain sump
   4. Remove old filter
   5. Refit new filter
   6. Close sump plug
   7. Refill with engine oil
2. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT NOW
   1. 4.85L near full container but do less and burp as some left in system
3. The car may now be started.
   1. Check oil level - TOP UP AS NEEDED
   2. Check coolant level - TOP UP AS NEEDED
   3. Cycle hot / cold on heater and loosen air bleed valve once up to temperature
4. REPLACE BRAKE FLUID NOW

And that's it... 71 convenient steps... fingers crossed minimal disruptions

Edited to add in @KPat 's helpful notes in an earlier post

You are a hole gooden if you are going to tackle this one very small thing when you are that deep what about replacing the earth strap when you into your elbows very much respect

 

[SB1500]

You are a hole gooden if you are going to tackle this one very small thing when you are that deep what about replacing the earth strap when you into your elbows very much respect

Which earth strap? Is this something that goes wrong in them?

 

[Big gerry]

Which earth strap? Is this something that goes wrong in them?

I changed my earth strap on the twin air it’s under the battery box connected to the gear box and chassis it’s an item rots over the years

 

[SB1500]

I changed my earth strap on the twin air it’s under the battery box connected to the gear box and chassis it’s an item rots over the years

I think I’ll have to give that a look tomorrow evening! Thanks for the heads up. The battery on this Pop model is comically small, smaller than my 2017 Easy which had a normal rectangular shape one! This is a little cube that doesn’t take up a full tray