Technical My stepson has bought a lemon - timing belt

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Technical My stepson has bought a lemon - timing belt

GottaFixThisLemon

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Hi Folks,

As the title says, I have the job of fixing up my step-son's purchase.

It needs a new timing belt - I saw a Youtube vid of someone changing the belt by accessing through a wheel arch, using a spanner to move the tensioner away, taking off the new belt and putting the new one on. Is it really that easy?

The car is a 2008 Dynamic 1.2 with an engine number of 44581060

Also needs brakes, exhaust and suspension, wish me luck!
 
taking off the new belt and putting the new one on. Is it really that easy?

The car is a 2008 Dynamic 1.2 with an engine number of 44581060


Unlikely..

There is normally an engine mount in the middle

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/437184-panda-8-valve-cambelt-change.html?p=4160027
 
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There is normally an engine mount in the middle

Yup, you have to remove the top engine mount, which means finding a suitable method for supporting the engine. There is a special tool for this, but you can improvise.

Later engines have unkeyed sprockets and no timing marks, so if changing the cambelt, use of the correct timing tools is pretty much mandatory if you want it to work properly afterwards. The forum is littered with posts from folks who've had issues after cambelt replacement, many of them done by independent garages not familiar with the peculiarities of the FIRE engine.
 
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I did my cambelt last year although its a 1.1 the method is similar.
I bought a set of locking tools for not much money which made the job easy (although the pin wrench for the tensioner was made of cheese).
A block of wood and a jack to support the engine whilst undoing the engine mount and a selection of tools to remove some ancilleries is all that's needed, took about 2 hours or a mornings work.
 
before changing the timing belt make sure it running a okay

the amount of times we see. Down on power, poor mpg, misfire and so on after a belt change. But know idea whether it was work 100% before hand


or wasn't working before the belt change then blame a garage or themselves for doing the job wrong because its still not running right.


Often chasing their tail round and round.
 
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Mine (1.4 so NOT a safe engine) had a good service history and a new cam belt before I bought the car. The water pump now has a slight weep. Nothing horrendous but I suspect they owner saved money by not replacing the water pump.

The 1.1 and older 1.2 engines are "safe". If the cam belt fails you stop but no serious damage gets done to the engine internals. Later 1.2 are not safe.

Brakes and suspension are cheap on parts and easy to work on. Exhaust - be careful some rapid fit outfits will charge silly money for a Yobbo Brand system you can get on eBay for under £100.
 
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The water pump now has a slight weep.

So, to change, or not to change? If it seizes, it'll snap the belt and wreck the engine.

Driving the water pump off the cambelt is bad engineering practice; much better to drive it off the auxiliary belt.

We don't often see reports of belt failure, but of those that do happen, I wonder how many are caused by water pump failure.
 
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So, to change, or not to change? If it seizes, it'll snap the belt and wreck the engine.

Driving the water pump off the cambelt is bad engineering practice; much better to drive it off the auxiliary belt.

We don't often see reports of belt failure, but of those that do happen, I wonder how many are caused by water pump failure.

Thankfully, seized water pumps are pretty rare but its a job I'll have to get done. I'm more concerned that loss of coolant takes out the head gasket.

Does anyone know which is the correct engine locking tool kit? I'm wary, because many well known brands put a huge margin on their tools. I recently bought a bearing press kit for £43. Sealy have the exact same set for

Mine @ £43
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373523264986?hash=item56f7b8b5da:g:MuEAAOSwCmhgZstz

Sealey @ £243
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323858731152?epid=1205453962&hash=item4b677c1090:g:L4gAAOSwe3ddK-HV

Spot the difference?
 
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This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Hi Folks,

As the title says, I have the job of fixing up my step-son's purchase.

It needs a new timing belt - I saw a Youtube vid of someone changing the belt by accessing through a wheel arch, using a spanner to move the tensioner away, taking off the new belt and putting the new one on. Is it really that easy?

The car is a 2008 Dynamic 1.2 with an engine number of 44581060

Also needs brakes, exhaust and suspension, wish me luck!
First thing to say is there are a lot of people on here who know a lot about these wee F.I.R.E. engines and already you can get a flavour of that in the excellent advice being given here.

As has been said the procedure described to you - working through the wheel arch in that way - can only be a description of someone changing the auxiliary (fan) belt. You can't even get the belt covers off without dismantling the engine mount!

Having said that though, don't be discouraged. If you've done timing belts in the past then this is definitely one of the easier ones to do. In fact the bit most people have greatest difficulty with is undoing the two lower bolts which hold the mounting block to the front of the engine. The engine mount itself is easily removed with six fixings - 3 on the inner wing and 3 on the engine - all accessible from the top but the engine end of the mount is bolted to an aluminium block which is itself bolted to the front of the engine with 4 bolts and it's the 2 lower of these which are difficult to get a spanner on. If you put a block of wood under the sump and use a trolley jack (a wee DIY type does fine) to take the engine's weight when you remove the rubber mount then you can pump the engine up and down, as needed, to access these two bolts more easily. A bit of pumping up and down is needed to wriggle this block out from the side of the engine too. By the way these engines are well known for their sumps rusting out so take a careful look before taking any weight on it. A good sump will easily take the weight though so no worries if it's only lightly rusted - but do something about derusting and painting soon to save expense and hassle later.

You need to identify which version of engine you have. The older engines had both the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket keyed to their shafts so they could only be fitted in one position in relation to their shafts. These engines are easily identified because the camshaft sprocket has a timing mark indented into it's rim. Later engines, don't have this timing mark on the cam sprocket. Although their crankshaft sprockets are still keyed, they have "free floating" unkeyed sprockets with no keyway in the end of the camshaft. So, if you slacken the central securing bolt (which is VERY tight) the sprocket will be free to spin on the camshaft nose and all timing will be lost and you won't be able to do anything about it without a kit of timing tools. (don't panic, they are very affordable on the likes of ebay - Dave McT found one above) My 2010 1.2 Panda Dynamic Eco is like this. Sometime around 2011 the 60hp engine was replaced by the virtually identical 69hp engine which also had a keyless sprocket but the sprocket is also a VVT design and looks very different to the non VVT jobbie in your or my engine. At 2008 I'd take a bet you've probably got the same setup as mine, which is a non VVT but unkeyed sprocket.

I can strongly recommend the Haynes manual for this vehicle, they've actually made quite a good job of it. Not so much about the electronics/management systems though but there are many on here who do know a lot! If you are going to get deeply into it there's really only one thing to say - Multiecuscan! But more on that another day perhaps.

The "Bible" on doing these belts was written by Andy Monty and covers about all you could want to know about doing a belt on one of these:https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto-guides/237966-1-2-8v-evo-2-engine-cam-belt-replacement.html To a much lesser extent I did a bit of a write up when I did one on our Panda which might be of interest: https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/459903-beckys-timing-belt-ongoing-saga.html?459903=#post4338582 There's also "stuff" on my boy's 1.4 8valve when I did it, but I can't quite remember where I posted it! - basically the same engine but with the VVT sprocket.

when buying your new belt I would very strongly recommend buying an "all in one kit" which includes the water pump, tensioner and belt. Unless you can be really sure the pump has been very recently changed. It would be such a pfaff to have to strip it all down again in perhaps a year's time because the pump had started leaking! By the way these engines were non interference until they put the VVT pulleys on them and made them into 69hp engines so your's is - almost certainly (but I'm not accepting liability for accuracy because I'm a coward) a non interference engine so the pistons don't get "friendly" with the valves if the belt breaks/jumps a lot of teeth. This isn't a lot of consolation though if it lets go in the outside lane at 70mph on a crowded motorway so I'm not advising neglecting belt changes (which I think are at around 5 years/50,000 miles?) I start to think about doing ours when they go over the 4 years as we don't do the mileage. There are lots of bargains on belt kits on line but I find my local trade factor does me very good prices - maybe a fiver more - but it's so convenient. I always do a new aux belt at the same time as the cost is minimal.

While you are "in about it" take a very careful look at the metal water pipe that runs along the front of the block behind the inlet manifold. They are known to suffer highly localized corrosion so can look very good except for maybe one little spot where it's rusting through. also check where it goes into the back of the water pump where it's sealed with just a big "O" ring which hardens with age and then gently seeps coolant.

Hope that's useful? I've probably forgotten something but i think it's time I shut up now and let others contribute or maybe comment on my post?

By the way, to all you other FF enthusiasts, did you see the feature Car Mechanics Mag did on changing the belt on a Ford Ca 2 with it's Fiat FIRE derived engine? (just like the engine in our cars) I love that magazine and have learned shed loads of "stuff" over the years from reading it but oh my word they really made a "meal" out of the job and had to spread their feature over two issues! I'm sure it would make an amusing read for most of you - Issues April and May for those interested.
 
PS to the above. If you are going to do the waterpump, due to the radiator header tank being down the side of the radiator, if you have a syphon of some sort you can stick it's hose down to the bottom of this tank and simply empty the cooling system by sucking it out. No need to disconnect the bottom hose!
 
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Thanks very much johno. Now I find this very interesting because it's the second "non manufacturer produced" - so not an actual Fiat document - I've seen where they do not detail the slackening of the cam pulley bolt as part of the procedure! You'll all be aware that Fiat recommend freeing up the cam sprocket when fitting the new belt and only finally tightening it's retaining bolt after full belt tensioning has been performed.

My investigations into the possibility of changing these belts using the "tippex" method leaves me feeling completely vindicated!
 
Car Mechanics magazine have been doing a Ka2 cam belt change (1.2 engine) over the last 2 issues, they found that the cambelt was slack on the waterpump side so, they were advised to undo the crank holding tool and turn the crank 1/2 a tooth before final tensioning. After 2 revolutions everything aligned correctly. BUT, they did not loosen the cam pulley bolt either.....
 
I have not (yet) done a FIRE engine, but the twin cam fiat cam belts are set with the cams locked and the cam wheels loose. This freedom allows the belt to be correctly tensioned. You then check the crank has not moved and torque up the cam wheels. A wheel holding peg tool (not needed on keyed cam wheels) is used to avoid over stressing the cam shafts when its torqued up.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393254834484?hash=item5b8fd09134:g:2VcAAOSw8LxggCG8
 
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