Technical 2010 1.1 panda timing

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Technical 2010 1.1 panda timing

I could try and drill the snapped bolt out but there’s a breakers near me that has 08 plate, quicker and less hassle getting that I would imagine
 
The one in the middle, is it reversed thread, impact gun to loosen?
Let me check, I am 75% sure it's a normal lefty loosely, but very tight

But now you have said left hand thread, I am doubting myself

If you have a broken drill, you could sharpen it backwards and run the drill in reverse, the thread here are normally fairly loose, once it starts to grab it should spin out
 
As far as I can tell

It's a standard right hand thread

single use stretch bolt

20 Nm plus 90 degrees

This thread seems to confirm it's a standard thread

Yes it a 16V but the block is the same
 
8.8 is not high tensile. 10.8/12.8 is. Although 10.8 is the more commonly used in the automotive industry.
Depends how you defined it

8.8 quench and temper heat treatment with a strength of 800 MPa



Grade 4.6 & 4.8 – Mild Steel.
Grade 5.6 &6.6 – Mild Steel/High Tensile.
Grade 8.8 – High tensile, commonly used on hex head fasteners.
Grade 10.9 & 12.9 – commonly used in the automotive industry.
Grade 14.9 – High grade steel, used in pressure critical applications.

It's a go to bolt as they normally meet a higher tolerance on the tread specifications
 
Yes. A typo error on my part I meant to put 10.9/12.9 I recently replaced both bottom ball joint pinch bolts when I found out that they were 8.8 fitted before I bought the car, which are not the right spec. I bought genuine Fiat 10.9 ones to replace them. I have literally hundreds of nuts and bolts 95% of which are 8.8 the other 5% are old ones from previous jobs on other cars. Personally, I don't regard 8.8 being of a high tensile nature. But as I say that's just my personal opinion.
 
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This square cutout has to at the top

This is my cylinder head, was being lazy and was going to pick up a random image from the internet, but the first one I found was the wrong way round, and before someone says it does not matter, 2:1 ratio yes it does
Maybe a silly question, do I line this up with the belt off
 
Maybe a silly question, do I line this up with the belt off
Yes lock both the cam and crank, you will not be able to fit the belt though

Wedge the belt on the bottom crank pulley with a rag, there's a convenient lip

Mark it up as per link I gave earlier in post 4
 
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Cheers koalar, I got the belt on no Bother by loosening the tensioner pulley, just alternator belt to go back on and hopefully it’ll start
 
As far as I know, if the engine revs past 4K RPM without throwing a P0016 error code, it has to be timed correctly, it certainly the case with the evo2 1.2 engines
 
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Getting quite a bit of smoke from manifold area, don’t know if this would be wd40 I sprayed on the bolts, smells sweet, took the heat shield off can’t see any signs of a leak
 
A small amount is normally just spilt bits burning off for the first 5 minutes or so

If it continues

Make sure it's not leaking oil from the valve cover, especially at the corners, they often need some extra RTV even with a new gasket has been fitted
 
No more smoke, washed all around manifold with soapy water, think there maybe issue with cooling system, temp gauge gets to half way, no fan kicking in an no coolant coming out of the vent near the bulkhead
 
Yep doesn't kick in much at these outside temperatures

As long as the level is good

Temperature is at the centre

You should be good

If you are worried

You can switch the fan on single and double speeds not all models had two speeds via directional software

Or you can remove the electrical connector from the temperature sensor and replace it with a potentiometer and adjust the gauge at will to kick the fans on

 
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