General My new purchase stalls literally every time.. can't even make a 5 miles trip in 2 days

Currently reading:
General My new purchase stalls literally every time.. can't even make a 5 miles trip in 2 days

Sylvester22

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2024
Messages
117
Points
80
Location
Hungary
Hi all, I've just posted my newbie-thread, unfortunately I've mentioned there's been a very odd and big issue, and I'm looking for some opinions please.

Just in nutshell: my Bravo, The Tazmania Devil, according to the previous owner, had no issue like this before. He looked very honest, even told me stuff I'd no chance seeing, had all paperwork, M32 was done as well, car seemed well taken car off.

After buying the Bravo, driving back home 20 minutes on a bumpy road went fine, but then reversing on the driveway, after few seconds the engine slowly died. I thought it has Start-Stop, which hasn't got, so I didn't think much of it, but a bit later it didn't want to start again.
After 30min wait, it started right up.
Talked to the seller, I said let's wait and see.

Then next day, I went to register the car on my name, a few quick engine start-ups went fine, as the station had to checks vin numbers by law, but when all was done, the car didn't start again. After 45 minutes it fired up suddenly, but 2 streets later the engine CUTS OUT during drive! I barely managed to pull off a busy street. Bit of wait and car starts again, I'm very stressed, but thinking it must be something of a small issue, I drove home those few streets.

Next day, on Saturday afternoon I went for a 30min drive, it was really nice, but after reversing to the parking bay, the engine slowly cut again, and didn't want to start.
Hill-start and ASR, ESP lights come on usually, but they dissappeare after few minutes drive.

Sunday I drove to the seller, we checked the car and found the fuel cap broken. I was thinking that may be the issue, the seller felt bad and gave me 4 alloys, which I payed 50% off, I needed them for winter anyway. I didn't want to give up on the car, so I carried on.

Unfortunately I couldn't even driven off, the engine didn't want to start. I waited an hour, still nothing, so left the Bravo there and came home. Thanks mum for the lifts.
Today, I went back and engine fired up right away. Changed the fuel cap too. Then 5 min later, I had to reverse back due road closure, then in 2nd gear, with a sudden jerk, the engine cuts out again. I bought a not-cheap but simple OBD scanner, only one in my area, and the fault code mentioning Turbo Solenoid came up. I deleted as could've been an old code, but the car still didn't start, even after an hour wait. No more fault codes after that either.

2nd time the car has been parked on some street far away from me, as it stalls so often, it can't even make a 5 mile trip back home.

What I've noticed:
-the battery was suspicious, but it's only a few months old and has 13v.
-Half of engine cuts happen shortly after reversing
-No EML light. The occasional ASR and ESP lights go away after 1-2 minutes drive.
-apart from the Turbo Solenoid code, no other codes shown, but it's a cheap scanner. I'm getting Multiecuscan, but order takes over a week.
-Brake light switch has been changed, brake lights don't show when they not supposed to.
-engine temp solid around middle
-no beeping sound, the engine just cuts out like it has Start-Stop.
-Chip tuning is 2.5 years old
-Oil bit dark but been changed 4 months ago.
-After a few hours wait the engine fires up, but cuts out soon enough, then requires many hours of wait again
-During driving sudden jerk and engine dies(2 times) or after reverse parking (8-10 times). These happened in a span of 4 days. For now, my only suspicion is Turbo Solenoid failure, perhaps the turbo over-heats and cuts the engine.

QUESTIONS: I've found the 1.4 t-jet Turbo Solenoid part number, 55203202/70060700, but can't find info on it's location, and how to change it. Any link on that?

With the chip-tuning is around 150hp, so should I look for part for original 120hp verison, or 150hp version?
I've good basis with cars, I'd changed Throttle Bodies, adapted EGR etc, but never had a Turbo car.
I'm going back tomorrow as well, I may even make it back home...
Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.
 
So the engine has cut out again after a few miles, this is the fault code:
Screenshot_20241119_154830_Gallery.jpg

I thought the turbo solenoid valve might be stuck open/close, red circle on this image
Screenshot_20241119_160524_Chrome.jpg
the small black box by the turbo with 3 tubes and 1 power connector, and bought this valve:
20241119_155301.jpg

I bought this one, BUT this doesn't look like that black box at all, nearly double in size, and has only 2 tube holes.

Did I get the wrong part for the issue shown P0039?
Which one is the Turbo Bypass Valve?
Thanks a lot.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20241119_154830_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20241119_154830_Gallery.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 4,085
Last edited:
I wouldn't entirely believe the YATO generic error codes reader. It's a FIAT :D

Check the vacuum hoses. First, if they are not damaged, then if they are connected correctly.

In the bottom of the forum banner you've got a link to the forum online ePER. It's a spare parts catalogue. You can browse by models and categories. But also search via the VIN. The menu windows is on the top left corner.
 
Check the vacuum hoses. First, if they are not damaged, then if they are connected cocorrectly.
I've checked them, they look fine. The biggest issue is that the engine suddenly shuts off, if it was only vacuum leak, it'd lose power I assume. Boost is good and all seems fine, until the whole thing suddenly shuts off, then can't be restarted for hours.
The eRep roll down menu doesn't appeare to me, I'm on phone atm, I'll try on laptop was well. Cheers
 
I've checked them, they look fine. The biggest issue is that the engine suddenly shuts off, if it was only vacuum leak, it'd lose power I assume. Boost is good and all seems fine, until the whole thing suddenly shuts off, then can't be restarted for hours.
The eRep roll down menu doesn't appeare to me, I'm on phone atm, I'll try on laptop was well. Cheers
What mean 'dont start'? The starter electromotor rotate the engine when you key ON?
 
What mean 'dont start'? The starter electromotor rotate the engine when you key ON?
When engine is cold, it fires right up.
But few minutes after reaching 90°operating temperature, the engine suddenly shuts off on it's own, usually around 6-7 minutes. Then the engine doesn't start again, until it's cooled down completely. Even after 1 hour, it cranks fine, but doesn't fire up, it's like I'm using the wrong key.
Then few hours later, the engine fires up right away.

The only fault code so far is P0039 Turbocharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Range/Performance.

So now, I'm trying to find the location of the Bypass Valve on 1.4 t-jet. Any ideas?
 
Rough roads .... cut out when reverse gear used....

Suspect battery main cables , especially the negative cable . On other models the main battery negative wires are very prone to disintegration under black covering.
 
So now, I'm trying to find the location of the Bypass Valve on 1.4 t-jet. Any ideas?
It is right in front of the car marked with red circle on photo. One pipe from valve go to inlet large pipe of turbine ( low pressure side ), another to outlet large pipe of turbine ( upper pressure side ) and the third valve pipe goes to waste gate actuator of the turbine ( under the aluminium cover ). When the pressure of air made by turbo is to high the ECU command the bypass valve on open the path between upper pressure side and low pressure side and in same time open waste gate so the pressure into turbo come down very quickly. If you post your VIN = zfaxxxxxxxx I can tell you the original partnumber of the bypass valve. I dont think your problem is from this valve.
You can check the electrical connections with car body. From negative pin of battery is a thick black cable, 40 - 50 centimeter long who goes under battery car body strut. You must remove the battery from car, then the plastic tray under battery and will see the connection. Must be clean and tight mechanical connection.
Also if the battery is in good condition and fully charged you can disconnect the thick red wire from alternator. It goes to fuse box located near battery and make a car trip only on battery without alternator. ( good ideea to have a backup battery on your car when you do this ).
From now there are a lots things to be checked. like fuel pomp pressure, spark on spark plugs, injectors command, crank sensor, electrical connections, wires and cables on various points and so on. Go to the mechanic.
 
Last edited:
Rough roads .... cut out when reverse gear used....

Suspect battery main cables , especially the negative cable . On other models the main battery negative wires are very prone to disintegration under black covering.
Sometimes cuts out on smooth road as well, well smooth for Hungary. It's literally superb when engine is cold, starts literally right away, then 7-8 min later suddenly cuts out, and can't be restarted until engine is completely cold, then the same cycle over again. I'm gonna look into it tomorrow and check the battery cables as well, cheers Jack.
 
Lamba and cranks sensor's are common things to fail when the engine is hot and prevent the engine restarting at least they used to be
Can those issues also cause the engine to stall after 7-8 minutes? When cold all is great, after warming up, it's engine sudden stall at any moment. Cheers Chris
 
Last edited:
"It is right in front of the car marked with red circle on photo....."
The battery is 4 months old, voltage is 12.8v, cold start is literally right away, but I've got a new one as well with 12.6v, should I change it over?

I spoke to car parts retailer, and that part I've red circled, apparently called "Boost Pressure
Control Valve", and the "Turbo Bypass Valve Control Circuit" part shown by fault reader, supposed to be inside the Turbo, and only comes an 1 part, so new cost a fortune.
Am I missing something?
I'll send the vin in dm.
Cheers Aschiuta
 
Stalling on warm engine without error codes.. i would suspect crank position sensor. Maybe other users know some tests that can be performed to check its operation before spending money?
 
The battery is 4 months old, voltage is 12.8v, cold start is literally right away, but I've got a new one as well with 12.6v, should I change it over?

I spoke to car parts retailer, and that part I've red circled, apparently called "Boost Pressure
Control Valve", and the "Turbo Bypass Valve Control Circuit" part shown by fault reader, supposed to be inside the Turbo, and only comes an 1 part, so new cost a fortune.
Am I missing something?
I'll send the vin in dm.
Cheers Aschiuta
Did not find your VIN in Eper. 46813571 for 120HP and 55212397 for 140HP is the partnumbers for this solenoid valve. Waste gate is inside the turbocharger on hot side of it. Google for it to know how it works.
 
Did not find your VIN in Eper. 46813571 for 120HP and 55212397 for 140HP is the partnumbers for this solenoid valve. Waste gate is inside the turbocharger on hot side of it. Google for it to know how it works.
Yes I've found it as well, cheers.
I've checked Google on P0039, most shows the waste gate issue, so built inside the turbo, sold only as one, which is $$$$.
Anyway, tomorrow I'll check the cables under the battery tray and around it, may change the 46813571 solenoid, but if still no avil, I'll call the Fiat service on Friday. Thanks.
 
Back
Top