Technical Multipla clutch problem. biting point at floor!

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Technical Multipla clutch problem. biting point at floor!

many thanks sillybilly , did as you said and bleed the clutch, all working great.
 
Hi
You wont see it from there!
Open bonnet, look at the brake&clutch reservoir. Go down about 3 or 4 inches, slightly to the right of the reservoir centre on the bulkhead. The pipe comes across horizontally from the master cylinder, which is behind the pedal, and the bleed nipple junction is on that. Should have a little black dust cap on it. Quite visible with a torch. I think it is 8mm. When you find it you will see why many mechanics dont know it exists! I think there is a pic in the article I referred to in an earlier post.

If that does not do the trick and you at some time have to replace the master cylinder I am told it is a pig to do. But if it is just the seals, you can buy a new master cylinder and fit all the internal gibbings from the inside of the car in about 30 minutes.

Thanks Silly Billy.
Very helpful post:)
 
This is weird, because I have a 2000 diesel and the clutch pedal is connected to the engine by a cable. The plastic bit at the end of the pedal broke last week (after 260,000km), the replacement plastic bit and new cable cost about 90 GBP. The 'mechanic' that fitted it, however, forgot to tighten up the cable and didn't put an extra nut on it (at the engine end) so it became impossible to change gear. Looked at it myself and I adjusted perfectly with an ordinary spanner (10mm - put a second nut on it just to make sure). I'm in the dark here - I'm just a violinist and have little or no idea if I've done the right thing :)
 
Hi
Sounds good to me! Except for the cost of the cable.
I understood that rhd Multiplas all had hydraulic operated clutches. Yours must be a lhd?
 
This is weird, because I have a 2000 diesel and the clutch pedal is connected to the engine by a cable. The plastic bit at the end of the pedal broke last week (after 260,000km), the replacement plastic bit and new cable cost about 90 GBP. The 'mechanic' that fitted it, however, forgot to tighten up the cable and didn't put an extra nut on it (at the engine end) so it became impossible to change gear. Looked at it myself and I adjusted perfectly with an ordinary spanner (10mm - put a second nut on it just to make sure). I'm in the dark here - I'm just a violinist and have little or no idea if I've done the right thing :)

one thing to keep in mind when adjusting a clutch is to keep a bit of slack so when the pedal is all the way up, the release bearing is not riding on the clutch since this will cause it to fail really fast.
by pulling on the clutch fork you should feel a bit of slack, and also might heat the bearing coming in contact with the pressure plate, if you can feel/hear it then your golden!
 
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