Mike1alike
Established member
Turn the headlights off while you start the engine!
The headlights are not on. Only the daylights in the bumper are on. I will turn them off through the menu.Turn the headlights off while you start the engine!
I charged and tested the battery.Always good and annoying when it's something simple and stupid
That doesn't sound good. Not at all!Voltage = 13.6 V
So that's not right there's no indicator light for the drls the green is for the headlights or sidelight only when the key is out but then the headlights come on when you crank the engine.The headlights are not on. Only the daylights in the bumper are on. I will turn them off through the menu.
And also, there is the indicator of the dipped beam present and that happens only when the lights are on.So that's not right there's no indicator light for the drls the green is for the headlights or sidelight only when the key is out but then the headlights come on when you crank the engine.
I didn't change a battery. And this is not my video. That's an example I found. Nothing starsWell, I'm lost, you changed the battery, and video shows it now starts...????
That doesn't sound good. Not at all!
Normal voltage for full charged battery is 12.8 V. Or did you get 13.6 V with the engine running? If so, it is below normal. Normal voltage for alternator to give is between 13.8 V - 14.2 V.
You should try a known to be good battery and see if that is really the problem.
I agree, The chap round the corner from me has one of those new type testers with thin leads which obviously can't pull any current. He came round to me, earlier in the autumn, because he was having trouble starting his car but this tester said the battery was A-OK! I stuck my multimeter across it and cranked the engine only to find around 11.5 volts showing. Charged the battery up and it started OK but next day it was the same story. So duff battery - maybe sludge in the bottom of the cells causing an internal discharge? Who knows - but the "silly" tester's lights were still showing this battery to be OK. I checked for parasitic draw but there was only the usual "modern car leakage". A new battery solved his problems. The old heavy discharge type used to give reliable results back in the days I was on the tools but they seem to be rather frowned on now?I do not trust batteries and testers!!! $% Years of experience say get an expert to test it with professional gear. Ive seen batteries with 13v that are failed due to one cell fail. Not clear if you have actually got it going again. At a year old you may well get a warranty claim on the battery if it has gone down.
You know I think this has come up before, alternatorThnaks for helping guys. The car is back from Fiat.
The alternator was not turning smoothly. This caused the crankshaft to slow down. The car starts again.
You know I think this has come up before, alternator
That and all other technical details mentioned gave me the impression that you thoroughly verified the battery and the electrical Holy Trinity (Batery, Starter, Alternator). In the future, I am going to mention the basics stuff on forum, when someone mentions their problem, even if there's an impression that it was verified.- Battery is full charged