General Handbrake.

[Ryanedgeworth89]

I finally have a working handbrake. Been around a few garages all changing different parts and not getting a working handbrake since 1st garage changed cable (managed to snap the rod aswell).

How can i tighten it so i dont have to lift the lever up so high? (Get caught on the handbrake lever when getting out of the van)

 

[Reg 65]

This is the procedure (attached pdf)

 

[Ryanedgeworth89]

Thanks for that. Does it have to be set that high( 6 clicks) or can it be tighten more so it sits lower?

 

[Communicator]

Thanks for that. Does it have to be set that high( 6 clicks) or can it be tighten more so it sits lower?

On my x244, with shoes etc set correctly, I adjust the setting at the bridle, so that handbrake is starting to bite at three clicks, this probably means fully engaged at five clicks.
The x244 procedure is basically the same as for later models, but I have added spanner sizes, which may make things easier.

 

[Reg 65]

Thanks for that. Does it have to be set that high( 6 clicks) or can it be tighten more so it sits lower?

If you set it lower you risk the brakes binding and you really don't want that.
It needs a long travel because it needs a lot of leverage to produce the brute force required for the handbrake to be effective - no power assistance like the footbrake. And its a small drum on only 2 wheels so it can only get the force required by pulling a long lever up 5 or 6 clicks
It achieves this by pulling the cables at an angle - thats why its important to set it up as the instructions say.
A thread some time ago where a guy had changed shoes and drums and still couldn't get enough braking effort to get it through the MOT - all because he hadn't adjusted the cables correctly.

 

[Ryanedgeworth89]

Also hand brake light is not showing up on dashboard. Warning noise is there if handbrake is left on as you pull away. Any idea what or where to start looking at for the solution?

 

[cid]

Hi, bulbs gone. Ian.

 

[Ryanedgeworth89]

Take it the dash is coming out to get to it?

 

[cid]

Hi, unless there's another way I don't know about. on my x230 it involves removing 2 allan screws from speedo binacle. I don't know about these later vans. somebody will if asked nicely. Ian

 

[cid]

on second thoughts. will it go through MOT with warning light not working? If it will, leave well alone. you shouldn't need a warning light to tell you the handbrake's on. plus, the audible warning still works. plus, cars and vans were driven for decades without either lights or buzzers until some little snot decided we needed them for no apparent reason apart from to fail the MOT when they went wrong. Ian

 

[Reg 65]

Yes as long as you have got some sort of warning when the handbrake is not fully off. Problem is its not on the main brake but a small brake drum inside the disc - they call it a 'Top Hat' disc because its shaped like one, with the small drum in the middle. So you need massive force and long handbrake travel corresponding to very short movement of the shoes. There is no ventilation as its only designed to be used when stationary which produces no heat. If you set the lever below recommended height, or the lever is not fully down so it starts binding it could get extremely hot very quickly. Must admit I have set off with the handbrake lever not fully down and the audible warning has saved me.

 

[Ocwobio]

The angles of the respective levers and fulcrums have to be at the 'just right' angles to allow maximum leverage thru the system. Anyone who has done much fiddling with mountain bike cantilever brakes will know the score. I'm looking for someone who will adapt a standard handbrake handle by about six inches so I can get more leverage for my tag axle setup. It has had linkages adjusted 'just so' by a man who knows, but cable drag and extra cables in the mix, mean that pulling the lever up when shoes bite, is more than my back will stand. At the last MOT, I got it on enough to pass, but could not pull the lever up again (notch 6) to take the strain off the button push!