General Guess what i've gone and done now?! :D - stage 2 begins

[randomizered]

Sorry Jordan, never got round to measuring up the parts today.

No pics to update, but made a bit more progress

All the coolant is plumbed in and filled up

Lots of parts that were a little close have been adjusted and moved, just lots of little things really.

Wheels are on and its back on the ground

I also spent a bit of time with my strut brace and a hacksaw. Bodged it up, with a wrong cut, so will need to weld it back up (first ever welding attempt lol), then I'm gonna cut the top mounts off the bar, and raise them up about 10mm on some plate, as it almost fits, but not quite! That was just a distraction really

More piccies tomorrow

Kristian

 

[randomizered]

Modified my MS today. Fitted the 4 coil drivers (VB921) so that i can run the coil on plug system. Thermal paste and liberal helping of a glue gun, to prevent the cable movment. Lets hope they don't get so hot as to melt the glue though lol, that would make a mess all over the pcb



For now I will run wasted COP so that two cylinders still fire together. The advantage being with COP you get a much stronger spark and it looks neater imho.

In the future, i plan to build a second decoder circuit, and link up the cam sensor, so i can run sequential ignition and injection. I know the injection thing may not provide much benefit, and may not work that well, but it only takes 2 seconds to switch between batch, semi or fully sequential More importnat issues to get sort at mo though

The connector hole i drilled into the MS case if f'ugly!! but i will replace the case at some point. Still function over form and all that, as long as it works

I'll be down the garage later to start fitting the loom back in

Kristian

 

[arc]

the main loom connector.. what is that.. it doesn't look like the same type used on mine, mine is female - yours looks male.

for neatness you when you replace the case, you could use about using a thermal epoxy and then you wouldn't need holes drilled in them

i've never tested it, does the casing on the MS have a connection to it - grounding at all. It's not gonna argue with the back plain of the new mosfets is it? I don't know if the stock heatsink is isolated from the case or not!

 

[randomizered]

Yep, mine is male, and the loom side is female Thought they all were?!

The VB921 are isolated, no metal tab :slayer: I do have isolation thermal pads, but theres no need, just heat compund will do the trick

The case is earth, so if any metal tab components are fitted, they must be isolated unless the tab is earth.

The bolts holes look nice on the outside. I have some rounded sunked hex heads

Shame i have old drill holes on the bottom, and made a mess of the face plate lol

Kristian

 

[arc]

Yep, mine is male, and the loom side is female Thought they all were?!

they are.. fook knows what i was on about. my connector is just different, in that it has an outer bit on it.

 

[randomizered]

they are.. fook knows what i was on about. my connector is just different, in that it has an outer bit on it.

lol, mine has that as well, but it falls off when the nut things are not fitted

Kristian

 

[cc1]

arc... Any connector that has a live (hot) wire in it should be female to stop any chance of shorting out the pins or in the case of a higher voltage, a shock hazard.

 

[arc]

indeed, i know this - i was just having a bit of brain fart and got confused.

 

[randomizered]

what if you have hot in and out

good to see you back on anyway chris you haven't seemed to be around a lot.

Kristian

 

[randomizered]

I decided it was time to take out some anger, so cue several hundred pounds worth of fly by wire throttle body (non serviceable/openable), a hammer, and pliers and smash it up.....the bits i didn't need

After ripping it apart, and cutting out the butterfly, I'm left with :



As it's plastic, it has metal sleeves, which is good for me.

The 1.4 butterfly is the same size as the 1.2 16V, 42 mm.

I was planning on mating it to the intake, and bolting it to the Rover TB:



However I noticed there was anther possibility :devil:

I looks like i can drill new mount holes in the rover TB! it'll be close, but if i use the old metal sleeved TB mentioned earlier, i can get quite accurate without fancy tools like bench drills



By doing that I can bolt the rover TB directly to the 1.4 manifold

I will have a slight/ledge as they join which will disrupt airflow a little. the width of the ledge will be a few mm.

Heres the panda TB gasket sitting on the very lip of the rover TB:



This may not make much difference, and if it does, i can still "port match" the plastic manifold to it with a dremel grinding bit

Ill use hylomar or silicone to get a nice seal between the two

Another option would be to place a sleeve in the rover TB, that matches the panda inlet:



all in all though, i prefer the first idea, it should work ok (fingers crossed) and look quite tidy

Any comments on this, if i am missing something obvious, speak now, before i cut and drill tomorrow


Cheers,

Kristian




Random pics:

 

[randomizered]

Only a few hours to play today.

The throttle body is on.. nice That's one of my biggest issues over.

At the moment it's not ideal. In the future i will smooth the plastic out on the manifold, but it will do for now.

Here's the TB bolted on . Mucho silicone to make sure its sealed ok:



Here's the mismatched lip. A simple fix for the future :



Here's how my induction is going to play out. At the input to the cda, I will be getting a 90 degree silicone bend, and taking it down to the fog light area. However, its not going forward facing any more, the filter just gets too dirty!

No coil pack = lots more space :



Refitting the mpi throttle cable was a pig of a job and took ages, I hate that stupid rubber bung, sometimes it goes in easy, sometime it takes blood swearing and tears. (to cold for sweat )

The rest of my time was spent trying to figure pin outs of the coil on plugs, stripping some of the loom to do so, as sadly i hace no 1.4 16v workshop manuals. It's easy enough, but time consuming.



Thats it for now

Kristian

 

[99sei]

hope you havent posted in two days because you've finished and are enjoying it. come on get some pics up

 

[J333EVO]

As requested by Kristian, here's some pics for everyone's benefit of the K-series TB install and the intake system

 

[J333EVO]

How much extra space you have if using a 1.2 16V intake manifold

 

[Brooky]

Whys there a gap between the flange and the start of the heat wrap??
ive always wanted to wrap me manifold but never got round to it

 

[arc]

some say if wrap up to the port it gets too hot there.

 

[Brooky]

you wrapped your right up didnt you??

 

[J333EVO]

Whys there a gap between the flange and the start of the heat wrap??
ive always wanted to wrap me manifold but never got round to it

As Arc says, there is a theory that when wrapping right up to the end the heat is too high and this leads to cracking of the manifold and the ports get too hot, but we wrapped not so much as to help the scavenging effect which is primarily what its meant for, but to protect the radiator and other surrounding items as the manifold comes close to the rad plus some water pipes.

It also keeps under bonnet temps down and all this helps to keep the water temps in check. You will also see that the water pipes them selves are wrapped in heat wrap to protect them, again not 100% necessary, but we likes to play on side of caution especially when it was spending a few hours on rolling road being wrapped and things get very hot.

HTH

Aaron.

 

[Brooky]

ive only ever done one power run on a rolling road, and yup things can get hot....my manifold was glowing.

I understand about the under bonnet temps ect,but ive never seen a 2" gap before so i was a little puzzled

cheers for the reply

 

[randomizered]

@ 99sei - Had an easy Friday, and been away in Portsmouth all weekend.

I have been doing unnecessary stuff that will make the install tidier. I know I will never tidy it up once its all in. Here's the extra carp i removed from the panda loom A fair bit lol. Also been adding the correct connector for the TPS, AIT etc.





@ J333EVO - Thank you very muchley for the pictures. What has been done with the bracket, is exactly what i thought about doing as well There have been no issues of the cable and rubber bung falling out of the bracket, because its open ended? I presume not else you'd have changed it

yep that's the same size gap i had on the 1.2 with that manifold as well. Close but not too tight

lol @ the off topic stuff Mine isn't wrapped at all, haven't bothered to date., probably never will. GoBe mentioned i have no sound proofing on my bonnet. It came like that from the factory, so they must have forgot. I bet that reduces temps a bit under there, as its just a thin skin of metal

Back off to do a bit more this evening now i'm home. Shame I want to watch the snooker, but need to get it finished

Kristian