Moving across the gate is an in and out movement of the selector shaft. Is it possible to watch the selector shaft, while 5 oan R ane engaged? If selector shaft moves in or out slightly as the gears are engaged, then try adjusting short link slightly, so as to give some bias in the appropriate direction. This is what I did with 2nd many years ago.
Until stripped down and inspected difficult to say.
well a few hrs graft and got clutch plate out whats your thoughts on its conditionUntil stripped down and inspected difficult to say.
Re if gearbox required and not repairable, given age etc.it starts to get limited in choice, my advice one step at a time, do all the checks first and maybe clutch replacement only if lucky.
Well no oil, centre plate looks almost new, what is the pressure plate like both sides, any damage or uneven fingers on diaphragm?
oh its the right way 3hrs before trying to line up before noticed it was wrong way lolWell no oil, centre plate looks almost new, what is the pressure plate like both sides, any damage or uneven fingers on diaphragm?
No damage to release arm reducing throw of bearing?
Unlikely but I assume centre plate faced correct direction accord to marks, I have seen them the wrong way around , but usually clutch doesn't disengage at all.
Know disrespect, I have seen it in dealerships.
From memory when the release bearing is correctly located on the lever it prevents the arm from lateral movement, it hooks over the two fingers of the release arm, so when fitted and bearing is able to slide up and down the shaft freely this should also control that movement.
hi , so been a while since had chance to get back onto sorting, problem, when tried to get gearbox off it was wedged tight and wouldn't come off so had go through hole in gearbox and managed to get bolts out off pressure plate and gearbox came off, problem was the flywheel support bearing was stuck to the shaft as in picture, have also put picture in off the release bearing showing the spring which was not attached to the release bearing at all , how does it connect to the bearing have tried a few different ways buys cant see how it fitsFrom memory when the release bearing is correctly located on the lever it prevents the arm from lateral movement, it hooks over the two fingers of the release arm, so when fitted and bearing is able to slide up and down the shaft freely this should also control that movement.
Re the lack of spring return again from memory, when adjusted correctly the clutch pedal should align with the brake pedal when both are released, this means the release bearing is in "light" contact with clutch pressure plate at all times.
Once adjusted it should be possible to tuck your foot under the clutch pedal and lift it a little with no effort, on release it should drop down to align with the brake pedal again.
As a guide when clutch requires adjustment or is wearing out , the clutch pedal will be higher than the brake pedal.
P.S. Trust your health is good now.
hi yes the bearing was completely seized on so had to cut it off,, ive only just put gearbox and engine together as they where out where got van so it's My fault for not lubricating it lessons learnt,, so now new clutch kit ready to go in once clean the shaft so can get new bearing on,, as for the spring I'm still not sure how it fits on the bearing so would still appreciate any help on that,, received new clutch kit and the thrush bearing is slightly different which is understandable in has a spring in the front is this just a protective piece which needs removing or is it part of the bearingWow! That does look a bit of a mess. From what I can see the tube the release bearing slides on is badly scored/ridged which will mean it cannot allow the release bearing to slide smoothly up and down the shaft.
On top of that looking at the clutch plate, am I right that the flywheel spigot bearing has seized to the first motion shaft of the gearbox resulting in the clutch assembly being jammed so it could only come out with the gearbox as a unit , but after undoing the clutch pressure plate bolts? (Sorry just read your description, I was looking at the pictures)
In a normal World the end of the first motion shaft from gearbox should be slightly lubricated and only a close fit into that flywheel spigot bearing, so in no way should the bearing seize to the shaft causing your problems. Has it been exposed to flood water or similar?
A new bearing should easily slide on and off the first motion shaft of the gearbox.
I see the spring you mention, some vehicles have that and some don't, I think it is largely to secure clutch bearing to the release arm rather than any aid to clutch return mechanism.
I would leave the new bearing as it came , don't take anything off it.
.hi thanks for all that info should make it a bit easier to fit this time, when fitted it last time it was a bloody nightmare was really difficult to mate gearbox to engine so not sure if this was a sign the bearing had seized even before was together, but now a least with all new parts and some grease hopefully it will just fit on a breeze fingers crossed anywayI would leave the new bearing as it came , don't take anything off it.
Once everything cleaned up I would check the new spigot bearing slides on the gearbox first motion shaft easily with a little high temp. grease to test, before fitting it to the centre of the flywheel/crankshaft, they usually tap in gentle using a large socket or similar and a copper mallet. Then a little of the same grease on the splines and slide the clutch centre plate up and down that shaft so you know it is easy, before fitting clutch centre plate and pressure plate to flywheel being careful to align it correctly so gearbox can slide on easily.
Regarding the release bearing after cleaning up the ridges and damage on the part of the gearbox it slides on, providing it is fairly easy that should not need too much grease as it has a nylon centre I see from photo.
Where the clutch release arm pivots I would use the same grease on it's pivot points and also where the release bearing contacts the release arm.
If the spring is in place on the arm, with the bearing in it's correct position it should be possible to locate the end of the spring top and bottom into the locating holes in the new release bearing so that once it is in place you should be able to work the arm and the bearing should slide easily up and down the shaft.
Alignment is everything when fitting the gearbox, so when ready have the bolts handy and maybe a couple of long large philips screwdrivers that are a nice fit in the threads, so that when almost there, you can slide the screwdrivers in two opposite thread holes to help guide the gearbox on, it is essential that it is in line and no matter how tired you get, Do Not let The Gearbox Rest On the Clutch!!!!! As that is when damage occurs
It will help if the engine is hanging in the optimum position and ideally two fit blokes to lift and guide the gearbox into place.
I have fitted many gearboxes on my own when much younger with vehicle on stands safely then lifting gearbox using my arms and legs whilst laying on my back, including Fiat Ducato and Iveco Daily etc. sadly not anymore.
, im away for week or so now but will post back once it's all together thanks again for all your advicesorry ment to ask how difficult is it to remove the flywheel, wad thinking off getting it off to clean up as it's looking a bit rusted and pitted so while gearbox is off would it be easy enough to do without having to replace seals or anythinghi thanks for all that info should make it a bit easier to fit this time, when fitted it last time it was a bloody nightmare was really difficult to mate gearbox to engine so not sure if this was a sign the bearing had seized even before was together, but now a least with all new parts and some grease hopefully it will just fit on a breeze fingers crossed anyway
Shouldn't be a problem, jam a spanner in the starter hole or something to stop the flywheel turning then using a decent socket and bar undo the bolts and flywheel will come off. It is fairly heavy so be ready for it. No seals involved.
..yh I decided its not worth the hassle as its cleaning up ok on so one less job ,,, when I puy new bearing in do I drive it right to the back off the flywheel or have it flush with flywheelShouldn't be a problem, jam a spanner in the starter hole or something to stop the flywheel turning then using a decent socket and bar undo the bolts and flywheel will come off. It is fairly heavy so be ready for it. No seals involved.
I did remove a flywheel to fit a new ring gear on a Mercedes 608 D van after lifting the gearbox down, now that was heavy especially with my fingers jammed between it and the steering cross link
When you go to refit it, usually the bolts only align in one place unless there is a dowel, so it may be an idea to mark where the position it came off, as a heavy lump to lift and spin to the other five options of bolt holes
It will also need the bolts correctly re torquing so you don't break any. Personally for you it is probably easiest to clean it in situ if that is all that needs doing to it.
I think you will find you press /drive it in to the stop/lip, which usually means the bearing is fully supported around it's outer ring.
