Technical Fitting HID's

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Technical Fitting HID's

8k is fairly blue to look at...but whitish blue. any lower and IMO its too blue. 12k is almost perfect white

Alan
 
Would I be correct in thinking that 8000K is pretty much white-white, with 6000K being bluey-white and 5000K being rather blue?

8k is fairly blue to look at...but whitish blue. any lower and IMO its too blue. 12k is almost perfect white

Alan

Here is what the manufacturer says it looks like the 6000 is the best to go for

The K (Kelvin) Temperature range is a basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (colour temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is, the whiter the light is. When over 5000K the light begins to turn to blue as daylight.
There are only really 4 colours of HID available, despite the claim of sellers and manufacturers to the contrary. These are Standard factory 4300K (yellowish white), 5000K crystal white with no blue tint, 6000 crisp white light with delicate to moderate blue tint, and 8000K strong blue light. The highest light output is 4300K and the lowest 8000K.
I have been driving with HID Xenons now for many years and as you may have guessed I have tested every combination of Kit, bulb and colour. The following is a summary of my findings (objective as I bought light meters to measure the actual light outputs) and recommendations (both objective and subjective), which most customers agree with:
OEM is 4300K and without a question gives the most amount of light. I have tested dozens of bulbs and compared them all to a Philips D2S bulb as a reference point. The difference between colours and manufacturers is really quite shocking. The best 6000K bulb produced 15% less light than the Philips 4300K - while the worst 6000K bulb was a dreadful 70% less. That said, our bulbs being the best ones with 15% less light in measurable terms, actually produce a very white light with a slight blue tint when you look at them. For every day driving this really is a more pleasant light than the yellower 4300K. as its whiter light is more pleasant and in most driving conditions appears brighter. The reflection from signs and white lines is far better with the 6000K.
If your after the coolest looking Xenons with amazing performance then 6000K is my recommendation.
If you are after the most amount of light on the road then I recommend the 5000K - which is a little whiter than the 4300K whilst having NO blue and very similar light output to the 4300K with our ballasts. For the purists we do have some 4300K bulbs also.
If you are wanting the look of the OEM factory fit Xenons then please remember that the blue is not produced by the bulb, but by the reflector/projector lense. Refraction spilts the colour of the light like a Prism if you remember that experiment from Physics. When you get up close the bulb is actually 4300K with a yellow tinge. 8000K bulbs or higher are not the answer - they produce very little light – up to 70% less than the 4300K and the Police do not like them. Also the blue light is tiring on your eyes and will turn rear number plates Green!
One last thing as proved in our testing, not all manufacturers colour ratings are the same, so please dont try to compare! Some claim 12000K is sky blue!! Wrong - should be purple!!



Hope this clears it up no punn intended lol
 
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Yea my bad, got it the wrong way around!! :bang: Thanks buck-egit

hid%20temp.jpg


Alan
 
Yea my bad, got it the wrong way around!! :bang: Thanks buck-egit

And I was just too tired to read your post properly too and just nodded agreeing-ly :sleep:

It's all about personal choice. I'd stick to either 6k or 8k if your thinking of upgrading. 6k is the most common and gives a white light with a slight tint of blue. The 6k's I feel tend to give off the look of really bright bulbs

The 8k gives a slightly more tint of blue but is no where near a solid blue light. The 8k look more like what you would believe a HID light to look like. I'd take a guess that it is probably 8k that is in BMW's, Audi's and Merc's etc but I may be wrong
 
So how what was the fitting like?

Have to cut wires or worse the back of the lights?

Does it look tidy?

Easy to remove for warranty jobs?

Nope it's an easy install that doesn't involve any wire cutting or destrcution to any parts of the car. Took me 15mins per side to do and I'd say even less time to remove it all again if needed.

It's a simple method of placing a Ballast between the present wires and the new HID bulb. A simple plug and play effort.

It's as easy as replacing the a bulb as normal. Except rather than connecting the wires to the back of the bulb direct as on the standard bulbs you connect the wires in to the ballast and then connect the ballast to the HID bulb.
 
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i thought usually connections to the battery are needed? :confused:

no wires coming out from the back of the headlights? where does the ballast go/hide? :rolleyes:
 
Should be no connections to the battery, the ballast takes its supply from the original bulb power supply. I mounted my ballasts on the sides of the suspension turrets.

Alan
 
Think you're thinking typical high-power lights which should be wired directly (via a fuse of course) to the battery and switched by a relay on the original lights circuit.

The HIDs don't use significantly more power - but use the ballast to change the low voltage into a very high voltage.
 
Yip no wires need to go anywhere!I have installed hem so have seen for myself :rolleyes:


Bravo my man please help me I bought a set of HIDs the arrived today and I can get them fitted ok but you will know this as you have already done it

the standard bulb has only 1 spade on theback of it and the connector has only 1 slot for it to go into

Now My H1 kit has to wires a red one and a black one both have spade connections which goes where the instructions are not clear enough. As far as i can see i have 1 too many wires lol

here is a link to the same setup i have
http://forum.2gn.org/viewtopic.php?t=30192
scroll down the page till you get to the 3rd pic of the H1 kit and its the same layout as mine
 
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