General Fiat Grande Punto front brakes

[Mart34]

Hi guys

I've just been out in the car on a journey that took less than 20 mins, half way through the journey I started to hear a rough metal on metal sound coming from the front wheels when applying the brakes, obviously first thoughts is brake pads but upon inspection on my return home the brake pads look fine, plenty of life left in them.

Is it likely just to be dirt inbetween the pad and disc, as I have noticed the sound before but its not all the time or everytime I apply the brakes, it only seems to do it once the car has been out for about 10-15 mins

 

[Andy Monty]

Does one side get hotter than the other? Just don't burn your fingers on the disc? If so check the pads and reflex frame isn't sticking

Other possible is the heat shield behind the disc either sometging stuck between it and the disc or its got bent

 

[Mart34]

Hi Andy, I have just arrived at my destination after driving for approx 20 mins snd there is nothing coming from the brakes, no metal on metal noise, I will attempt to pop my wheel off later and try and investigate. Like I say it cant be the pad itself as its still looks to have at least 10mm thickness. Thanks for your suggestion Andy

 

[mattmuirhead93]

Is it a high pitched screeching noise? I've had this for a while and Saturday smelt a burning smell. My brake discs were brand new when I bought the car so I took it to Kwik fit yesterday, only for them to tell me that they weren't even going to look at it because the disks had been fitted by someone else (**** take really!).

Thanks for the suggestions Andy, I'm going to jack it up at the weekend and take a look myself.

 

[Mart34]

I'm beginning to think it is in fact the pads that are worn, I've just taken the picture thru the alloy wheel spokes. I cant work out if the bit at the bottom of the calliper is the friction material or the brake plate itself. (I'm pretty sure you all know where the pad is in the picture)

 

[Mart34]

Quite a while ago I bought a workshop manual which gives the procedures followed by the professionals, after reading through the procedure list on brake pad replacement there's nothing on the procedure about bleeding the brakes, according to the manual the pads come away from the disc once the calliper is removed.

Procedure is as follows, (according to the workshop manual I have)
- Position the vehicle on a lift.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

1. Disconnect the electrical connection for the brake pad wear sensor.

2. Uncrew bolts (2a) securing brake caliper (2b) to the bracket and remove from its seat.
- Secure the brake caliper to the suspension spring.
- Remove the front brake pads from the bracket.
- Grease the brake caliper and bracket in the areas of the pad support surfaces.
- Place the front brake pads in their housings.
- Fit the brake caliper and tighten the bolts to the recommended torque.
- Connect the electrical connection to the brake pad wear sensor.
- Connect the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the vehicle from the lift.

 

[Andy Monty]

See the guides section for pictures

 

[Mart34]

Come to the conclusion the problem is the pads, approached a roundabout earlier this evening and as soon as I hit the brakes I there was a metal on metal sound, took my foot off the brake, the pads stuck in position until I tapped the pedal and metal on metal sound stopped, upon returning home I checked the disc to find a very small, thin grove in the disc exactly in line with where the centre of the pad sits on the disc. Soooo new pads will be fitted tomorrow morning.

 

[Mart34]

Took the wheel off the problematic side of the car to find firsty the brake pad wear sensor was hanging by a thread, and the brake were badly worn; maybe no more than a couple of mm of friction material, put new pads on, and couldnt beleive how easy it was and to think I was going to pay someone £60 to do em for me 2 bolts and off comes the caliper with a little jiggle about. The piston was a bit tough but I expected that, following advice I removed the resevior cap and managed to pudh the piston back in

I've added a picture of what the old pads are like

 

[Rackham115]

Took the wheel off the problematic side of the car to find firsty the brake pad wear sensor was hanging by a thread, and the brake were badly worn; maybe no more than a couple of mm of friction material, put new pads on, and couldnt beleive how easy it was and to think I was going to pay someone £60 to do em for me 2 bolts and off comes the caliper with a little jiggle about. The piston was a bit tough but I expected that, following advice I removed the resevior cap and managed to pudh the piston back in

I've added a picture of what the old pads are like

Glad you got everything sorted in the end. I've never paid anyone to change my pads or discs, such simple jobs. Rear pads a trickier as the pistons dont simply push in, the rewind effectively. Tools for this are readily available and makes in as simple as the fronts in the end.

 

[MrKenny]

Hi Mart .. Yep your pads are (were) past it. Following on from what Rackham115 says about the rears, because of owning a couple of different vehicles, I have two piston winders ... Clockwise and anti-clockwise. Not sure on prices from other suppliers, but I got mine from Machinemart (Machinemart.co.uk) for about £10 each one. You'd need to know which way they turn (Rackham115 any clues?) to get them, but the cost savings are there to be made if you don't mind getting your hands dirty-ish. Gives you chance to have a quick look at things underneath when you do the work as well!

 

[Mart34]

I'm extremely happy that I've saved a bit of money fixing them myself, I usually leave it to the pro's as I'm likely to run into problems when I done work previously on my last vehicles. As I previously said in my last post I was amazed at how easy it came off, and how easy it was to take the old pads off, I've always been under the illusion that car manufacturers make things harder to replace or get at so you have to go to a dealer or professional to get something fixed.

A few months ago I spent about £3-£4 on a workshop manual on Disc to just pop in my computer as and when required, I never once expected to have to use it but was there just in case, I never once thought it to be such great help and guidance, along with everyone's guidance in this thread, Thanks guys every post was taken on board and is very much appreciated.

I know where to call by next time i have a problem.

Parts cost £16
Labour Cost £0

Cheapest quote recieved £50 + £10 call out.

Think I've saved a small fortune.

 

[Rackham115]

Hi Mart .. Yep your pads are (were) past it. Following on from what Rackham115 says about the rears, because of owning a couple of different vehicles, I have two piston winders ... Clockwise and anti-clockwise. Not sure on prices from other suppliers, but I got mine from Machinemart (Machinemart.co.uk) for about £10 each one. You'd need to know which way they turn (Rackham115 any clues?) to get them, but the cost savings are there to be made if you don't mind getting your hands dirty-ish. Gives you chance to have a quick look at things underneath when you do the work as well!

Not sure about the GP, my Stilo was clockwise iirc.

With working on your own cars it also means you can learn a lot about it too which is never a bad thing.

 

[steve119]

My brakes are making a hellish noise and are really hot as well.

New pads and discs are on their way though.