Technical fiat ducato 2007 not charging

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Technical fiat ducato 2007 not charging

Thank you!


I know this is an old thread but it just saved me some major heartache.

Once I finally got my cabin fan (Ducato 03 - 244) sorted I noted it speeding up and slowing down whilst set to 4. A multimeter direct on the battery terminals showed the voltage swinging as high as 15v and as low as 13 something. The cabin voltmeter was jumping all over the place too.


I thought the likely culprit was the voltage regulator but really didn't want to try and get in behind the engine to where the alternator is. Parts on this side of the world are 10 x what they cost in Europe / Britain too. So more research was conducted.


After reading this I did a basic continuity check and found excess resistance between the negative battery terminal and the engine block.


A temporary run of 2.5mm copper between the engine lifting point and the battery terminal and the voltage was a steady 14.4, remove the wire and it was all over the place again.

So I will replace a few earth leads and probably make a decent bonus one between the engine block and the negative terminal.

Thanks again.
 
Hi all,

Yes old thread but relevant to myself and most probs others as well.

I have a 2009 Fiat Ducato based Motorhome and after a 2 hour drive the battery is flat and the only thing keeping the main engine and leisure battery going is my solar panel putting charge back in.

Well took it back to the dealer and they said they have changed the alternator and it’s putting out 12.4v so I took there Word that it’s been fixed, well no.

After another trip same issue and it’s back in again hence me posting here.

I get no display light on the dash.
Sluggish start issues.
Battery runs flat.

Well I keep telling them it’s an earth issue but no they keep saying I’m running to much in the van flattening the battery........ ummmmm no the 12v circuit gets turned off once the engine starts duh!.

Anyway waiting back for their reply after there so called electrician fixes, looks at it again.

I keep telling them to clean or replace the earth straps or run another from the alternators strap back to the battery negative and that should bring it up to at least 14v where it should be not 12.4v.

Doing my head in now.
 
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Also when the key is first turned on I get no battery light (if I should see one) on the dash and also I see no fault lite when the battery’s flat as well.
 
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Hi Sattalk

If your dealer thinks an Alternator output of 12.4 volts when it's charging is OK then you need to find another dealer ! I'd expect to see something between 14.0 and 14.5 volts at the battery terminal posts even at idle. Once the engine stops and the battery has been left for a while, it should settle back to about 12.5 volts.


It's not hard to DIY fit a replacement earth strap between engine block and body. There's nothing magic about the Fiat part, it's just a length of heavy tinned copper braid with a couple of crimped lugs, M8 if I recall. Any auto electrics place should be able to supply you with something similar - a bit of excess length doesn't matter.

On the X250 vans (2006 onwards) this braid is vital as it carries ALL the starter motor current, there is no separate earth cable from the starter motor back to the battery. Also worth carefully checking the other high current cables and connections in the battery/starter circuit, including the battery negative connection to the body.
 
Cables are available in different lengths from auto electricians or even Halfords [!!] i have put additional cables on all my vans as i have changed them .

As all Seval vans seem to suffer from electrical gremlins as they start to age , i would advise new owners to replace and /or fit new earth straps as soon as you acquire the vehicle , could save you loads of grief and sleepless nights in the future ...!!!!
 
Hi Sattalk
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On the X250 vans (2006 onwards) this braid is vital as it carries ALL the starter motor current, there is no separate earth cable from the starter motor back to the battery. ---------------------------------

And the alternator current, once started.
 
Collected van today and they are hell bent on stating that somethings wrong in the van causing the battery drain. Me if that was the case then the battery would be flat after standing still, but its strange how after a 2 hour drive its flat which says to me the charging circuit is not correct.

I did notice today that the battery light showed up on the dash so I don't know if they did something.

I'll stick a meter across the battery and see whats what but extra straps I'm sure will help and fix it.

I'm also getting a slow sluggish turn over on start up wonder if that's part of the issue?
 
Totally agree with you, booked a mobile technician to have a look.


Hi Sattalk

Your dealer is clearly incompetent when it comes to Auto electrics. If you can't DIY, I suggest you find someone who knows what they are doing and deserves your custom !
 
I did notice today that the battery light showed up on the dash so I don't know if they did something.

I'll stick a meter across the battery and see whats what but extra straps I'm sure will help and fix it.

I'm also getting a slow sluggish turn over on start up wonder if that's part of the issue?

So.. what did the battery show with engine running ?
 
Extra earth strap fitted by the mobile auto electrician and voltage from alternator jumped up to 14.4v.

It also starts first turn now and not struggling to turn over.

He tested the whole van and says all is ok and just charged me for being here just over 3hrs £90.00.

So far due to local lockdown I’ve not taken it for a long drive but I’m confident it’s fixed, now I’m going to slap the Motorhome dealer with the £90.00 bill.
 
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FYI
Caution, this system appears to be controlled by the BCM. Don't short wires to earth or power, don't use a test light on CAN, BCM, ECU, etc. circuits.
I did not know this. I am keen to learn more...Why don't you use a test light on those BCM circuits?
What is the reason why?
 
Hello fellows. Probably facing similar issue as the one posted here several times.
My motorhome is a Ducato 2.3lt of 2014. Recently noticed that after starting the motor, the voltage of the starter battery is not being charged (initial voltage at around 12.5 volt which is slowly dropping to 11.5 and further...).
Did some tests and noticed that the alternator starting charging the battery only if you rev up the engine up to 2.2-2.5 thousands rpm just once. After that the alternator keeps charging the battery until you shut off the engine (then same story repeats). The voltage when starting the charging fluctuates between 14.0 - 14.3 volts.
Posting here a video for a better understanding.

My question is whether I should follow the test indicated here. That is to connect the earth connection used for jump start with a screw located on the chassis. Like it is shown in below photo. Since I don't currently have a proper earth strap, could I use a jump start cable for testing?

Thanks in advance!

viber_image_2023-09-04_21-45-32-441.jpg
 
A jump start cable is usually recomended for this test.

If this does not work, I can think of another possible cause.
 
A jump start cable is usually recomended for this test.

If this does not work, I can think of another possible cause.

I did this test but no luck. I did connect the jump start earth point with a screw on engine bracket. I also connected the negative pole of the starter battery to a different chassis point than the one that the earth cable is connected.
One note, is that the engine earth cable needs replacement asap.

viber_image_2023-09-05_20-21-54-865.jpg
viber_image_2023-09-05_20-21-39-689.jpg
 
Perhaps I should have noticed earlier, but is it the case that the jump start earth point is connected to chassis? The bolt used is a also connected to chassis? So connecting chassis to chassis?
What is needed is a connection in parallel with the obviously faulty earth strap. A good connection for the engine block end would be a lifting lug.
Perhaps the new engine block earth strap will solve the charging problem.

If not succesful, as the vehicle is a motorhome, is there any possibility that the D+ point is overloaded? Older alternator excitation circuits used the warning lamp as the initial excitation point. If too many devices were connected the alternator would not start generating until the engine was revved. With x250, and later models the initial excitation is from the BCM. It is possible that the BCM has a limited excitation supply to the alternator.

Another point mentioned in a thread a few months ago, is that non OEM replacement alternators may fail to start generating if they are not compatible with the BCM. This only applies if the alternator has been replaced.
 
Perhaps I should have noticed earlier, but is it the case that the jump start earth point is connected to chassis? The bolt used is a also connected to chassis? So connecting chassis to chassis?
Probably I didn't test the proper connection. Will try to simulate the faulty earth strap engine-to-chassis connection with the jump start cable again. I would appreciate if you have any link (from amazon or ebay) for a new, of good quality, earth strap to share.

What is needed is a connection in parallel with the obviously faulty earth strap. A good connection for the engine block end would be a lifting lug.
Perhaps the new engine block earth strap will solve the charging problem.
Will do so.
If not succesful, as the vehicle is a motorhome, is there any possibility that the D+ point is overloaded? Older alternator excitation circuits used the warning lamp as the initial excitation point. If too many devices were connected the alternator would not start generating until the engine was revved. With x250, and later models the initial excitation is from the BCM. It is possible that the BCM has a limited excitation supply to the alternator.
As far as I know, no more devices than the ones connected by factory, are connected to the alternator (I assume the fridge). The solar that was recently installed, has no connection with the alternator. However, I will try to check on the weekend. The location of the alternator is at a not service friendly position...
Another point mentioned in a thread a few months ago, is that non OEM replacement alternators may fail to start generating if they are not compatible with the BCM. This only applies if the alternator has been replaced.
As far as I know, it was never replaced. I purchased the vehicle with 35K km, so I think it should have not been replaced. I will check though also in the weekend.
 
Does the battery light on the instrument panel come on then go off?
 
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