Technical Fiat 500 Strut Top movement

[TedOnMeHead]

Hi all, help needed please. My Daughters 16 plate 500 has an issue with nsf strut top bearing resulting in lateral movement on the wheel.
So I inspected front brakes, ball joint, drop links ect & all seemed good. However, when I put the wheel back on, I realised there was lateral movement on the wheel, even when the wheel is back on & jack removed. I can move the wheel about an inch with the wheel brace on a bolt. So I changed the strut top bearing, but it’s as if I can’t tighten it up enough, like there’s a design fault. Ball joint, drop link, track rod end all seem absolutely fine. Im at a loss

 

[John202020]

Front shock absorber replacement

I had to replace our 2009 front shocks due to corrosion, this is how I did it, hopefully if you do this it will help you? What you may require, normal DIY workshop tools including odds and evens in spanners and sockets. Shock absorbers, drop...

www.fiatforum.com

Sorry I'm not quite sure where the movement is, top of the wheel say in/out as you pull it across the car?

 

[Danoid]

They’ll always be some play whilst it’s in the air but shouldn’t be drastic.

I assume you are using a hex to counter hold whilst tightening up the nut?

 

[TedOnMeHead]

Front shock absorber replacement

I had to replace our 2009 front shocks due to corrosion, this is how I did it, hopefully if you do this it will help you? What you may require, normal DIY workshop tools including odds and evens in spanners and sockets. Shock absorbers, drop...

www.fiatforum.com

Sorry I'm not quite sure where the movement is, top of the wheel say in/out as you pull it across the car?

Hi, wheels on floor as normal the whole wheel moves forward & backwards as I tighten bolts up.

 

[John202020]

Hi, wheels on floor as normal the whole wheel moves forward & backwards as I tighten bolts up.

lower control arms?
Generally the front suspension is considered toast at 8 years old, all of it and total replacement required if keeping the car.

 

[TedOnMeHead]

lower control arms?

It’s puzzling as they all seem good. Probably worth changing to rule it out tho. But as I look up underneath the car the strut top is moving. (Car on floor with wheel on)

 

[TedOnMeHead]

They’ll always be some play whilst it’s in the air but shouldn’t be drastic.

I assume you are using a hex to counter hold whilst tightening up the nut?

Actually no I’m not, I’m just using gun. My ring spanner’s won’t fit in to get a turn on due to angle

 

[John202020]

You replaced the top mount? the large rubber mounting with the top bearing in it that would have required spring compressors to replace? with the arrow( see my guide ) to face the right way including the spring cup orientation tab to face outwards ? Once the spring cup nut is on (27mm nut) and the strut is put back in situ, there's almost no movement side to side forward/backwards, even if the top nut and cup is not in place the one visible when the bonnet is open?

 

[TedOnMeHead]

You replaced the top mount? the large rubber mounting with the top bearing in it that would have required spring compressors to replace? with the arrow( see my guide ) to face the right way including the spring cup orientation tab to face outwards ? Once the spring cup nut is on (27mm nut) and the strut is put back in situ, there's almost no movement side to side forward/backwards, even if the top nut and cup is not in place the one visible when the bonnet is open?

Yes I replaced with a brand new bearing and black rubber mounting yesterday. I have all the gear, spring compressors ect. The wheel movement is exactly the same with old and new bearings.
I am starting to question if I put it together correctly now you have said that, but im sure I have.

Im new to this site, how do I view your guide?

 

[TedOnMeHead]

Yes I replaced with a brand new bearing and black rubber mounting yesterday. I have all the gear, spring compressors ect. The wheel movement is exactly the same with old and new bearings.
I am starting to question if I put it together correctly now you have said that, but im sure I have.

Im new to this site, how do I view your guide?

I’ve found your guide

 

[John202020]

With the top mount in its mounting area no movement pretty much is possible

 

[TedOnMeHead]

You replaced the top mount? the large rubber mounting with the top bearing in it that would have required spring compressors to replace? with the arrow( see my guide ) to face the right way including the spring cup orientation tab to face outwards ? Once the spring cup nut is on (27mm nut) and the strut is put back in situ, there's almost no movement side to side forward/backwards, even if the top nut and cup is not in place the one visible when the bonnet is open?

It’s entirely possible I didn’t sit the metal tab facing outwards, as I overlooked that, do you think if I’ve fitted it wrong that could be the issue?

 

[John202020]

It’s entirely possible I didn’t sit the metal tab facing outwards, as I overlooked that, do you think if I’ve fitted it wrong that could be the issue?

Actually no, the tab simply ensures the spring cup is in the correct plane ie shock/spring inwards at the top outwards at the bottom.
Take the strut out, correctly assemble, offer up the top rubber mount into it's upper wing mounting area gap towards the front looking down in the engine bay( guide second but last pic) support it with anything suitable to help with its weight pop on the top cup and nut, just nipped up, now the whole top mount shouldn't move much at all?

 

[TedOnMeHead]

Actually no, the tab simply ensures the spring cup is in the correct plane ie shock/spring inwards at the top outwards at the bottom.
Take the strut out, correctly assemble, offer up the top rubber mount into it's upper wing mounting area gap towards the front looking down in the engine bay( guide second but last pic) support it with anything suitable to help with its weight pop on the top cup and nut, just nipped up, now the whole top mount shouldn't move much at all?

Thanks for your help John, much appreciated. I’ll have another go after work, Tbf I am now starting to think it could be the wheel bearing. It would be a lot easier I can buy the complete knuckle with bearing already in to save going to a garage and getting old one pressed.
I’ll let you know how I get on

 

[jrkitching]

Generally the front suspension is considered toast at 8 years old, all of it and total replacement required if keeping the car.

Not necessarily. If you drive gently and run on steel wheels it may last longer than that.

My Panda is now 14yrs old and around 115k; I've had it since new, so far, I've only needed to replace the front droplinks and rear shocks; all the rest is original.

Passed its MOT a couple of weeks ago, though I'll likely need to replace both bottom wishbones if I keep it beyond next year. There's still no noticeable play, but the rubber is close to becoming unbonded.

If you're doing your own maintenance, the secret to running an older car on a budget is to only replace what's worn out. Decent parts are no longer cheap, and an old but still serviceable OEM part will likely last longer than a new cheap aftermarket one.