Technical Engine swap. New engine doesnt start.

[jackwhoo]

Bosch part 281 005 01 on plastic cover in one of photos is the immobilizer on the injection pump

 

[jackwhoo]

Remove it from engine that is out of vehicle so you know how to do it without braking anything on good engine in vehicle.

 

[Communicator]

Least complicated way is to remove the part of imobilser that is on the injection pump. You will then just be left with the simple stop solenoid on the pump that requires +12volts to enable vehicle start.

My understanding is that the immobiliser system was operational on both vehicles. As @RunarBolstad has not definately stated that he wishes to remove the immobiliser, suggestions have been tailored to test run the engine, while preserving both options.. As I understand it, removal of the immobiliser is slightly destructive, and replacement may not be an option.

 

[the green vanper]

My understanding is that the immobiliser system was operational on both vehicles. As @RunarBolstad has not definately stated that he wishes to remove the immobiliser, suggestions have been tailored to test run the engine, while preserving both options.. As I understand it, removal of the immobiliser is slightly destructive, and replacement may not be an option.

Yes, and a presence of an immobilizer is (or at least was) also a requirement in the EU for insurrance. And is a simple anti-theft device for non experienced / non prepared thieves.

 

[Communicator]

I took the donor key and held it with the camper key when cranking. didn't work. So much for proving the these .

So how does this security work exactly? Where are the measures? Chip inside the key? Receiver in the ignition lock?
Signal goes to fuel pump thru wires or radio waves?

Sorry @RunarBolstad , I do not think that we fully answered your questions.
As you will now realise, there is a chip in the key, which functions in a similar manner to a supermarket security tag, without an internal power source.
In your vehicle and mine, there is a separate code receiver mounted in the steering column cover.
When the ignition is switched on, the code receiver requests a security code from the key. The code received must match with one in the code receiver. There is another twist on my 2.8jtd, and I think that it also applies to your 2.8idTD. The engine ECU or injection pump sends a coded message to code receiver, which is only repeated back to the pump, if a correct key code has been received.
The communication between the code receiver and the injection pump or ECU is by a wired connection. This means that there will be 3 wires to your pump, ignition on supply, communication wire, and an earth or chassis connection.
The system works on the 2.8idTD, by interrupting the ignition on supply to the "stop" solenoid, which you already know has to be energised to allow injection.
The key code light is switched on by the code receiver, if the ignition is switched on, and a correct key code has not been recognised.

Some of the components are shown in the diagrams posted by @the green vanper.

 

[RunarBolstad]

The solution was to also swap the ignition barrel, the door barrels and immobilizer box. More work, but the best solution.

 

[RunarBolstad]

Least complicated way is to remove the part of imobilser that is on the injection pump. You will then just be left with the simple stop solenoid on the pump that requires +12volts to enable vehicle start.

I used my voltmeter and found out that the solenoid have 12 volt either way? and that there are communication between the reciverbox and the pump. So i guess that the handshake between the immobilizer system includes a small circut board inside the diesel distributor as well.

 

[jackwhoo]

The box on the pump is part of the imobilser system and contains electronic system. When the box on the pump gets the correct code it energised the solenoid on the pump(The pump solenoid is hidden by the box on the pump)

 

[Communicator]

I used my voltmeter and found out that the solenoid have 12 volt either way? and that there are communication between the reciverbox and the pump. So i guess that the handshake between the immobilizer system includes a small circut board inside the diesel distributor as well.

Yes, there is a circuit board in there. There are photos somewhere on this forum.

 

[RunarBolstad]

USUALLY the transponder in the key is a small element with no external electrical connections, but with an iside coil, which is activated by induction. No radio waves, but close proximity to the antenna (which USUALLY is located around the contact) is needed. That's why I suggested putting the donnor key close to the recipient's contact.

According to ePER:

View attachment 452392
Variant 2 shows another form of ECU (no 1) on the diagram.

The question is if the receiver will get two signals, which one it will take into consideration. Or perhaps they will interfere and nothing will happen.

It worked to hold the donor key at the right spot. On the rim of the ignition there are som marks, and on the key there are an antenna. The get this to work the donor key must be between the mark and the antenna mark on the original key. Then the immobilizer lamp turns off, and the car starts.

Final solution for me will be to change to ignition barrel and the key barrels on the doors.

 

[jackwhoo]

That is really good news , thank you for letting us know you have a fix.
Best wishes
Jack

 

[RunarBolstad]

That is really good news , thank you for letting us know you have a fix.
Best wishes
Jack

Do I close the thread in some way?

 

[Communicator]

Do I close the thread in some way?

No. That formality is not required.

May I take the opportunity to add some relevant advice.

The immobiliser key recognition was occasionly failing on my 2006, x244. I reasoned that the already low level signals from the key, were being attenuated by oxidation at the code receiver contacts. I reseated the connectors, and applied contact cleaner. I have not had any failures since. This is not a cure for all potential problems, but obviously worth trying if key rcognition failures occur.

 

[the green vanper]

Final solution for me will be to change to ignition barrel

Apparently there are two special security bolts with snapped heads. You need to cut them off in order to remove it from the steering column. It's an anti-theft solution. You can of course replace them with classic bolts with normal heads. They snap where the rubber band is.

That's how it looks on my x250:

The x250 screws' part number is 51927074. They are available on the Polish internet (2,50 EUR each, Fiat retail price being 1,65 EUR each), so I think you should be able to find them in Norway, too. If you'd prefer to stick with the factory solution of course.

Double check if the part will suit your x244!

 

[jackwhoo]

It is normally possible to remove the lock barrel from the steering column fitting by inserting the correct key turning a little and pressing a button through a hole in column fitting.