Technical ECU Testing/Repairing In UK?
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Technical ECU Testing/Repairing In UK?
Voko
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Yeh, I was look at the other one with a black pipe, lower and to the right of the frame. The ops connection could be broken?
Voko
Member
It heads off behind the power steering reservoir...
Is that the feed pipe fuel pump to fuel rail then?
Loving the pics much easier my end
Voko
Member
I hope not, its a fairly loose fit, quite oily if I pull it off a bit, but no fuel smell....
Try and work out what each end is connected to.
Just can't see from pictures . It looks like it may connect to fuel rail in pic I can see but angle isn't great.
I don't want to guess.
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minimayhem
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It's the fuel line that connects to the fuel rail. Comparing our pics it does look like the red bit showing on mine is a bit of clip that's broken, I'm guessing it shouldn't be showing. No fuel is leaking out though so I'm not worried!
Engine idles at around 800 rpm when running rough.
Yeah when I pulled the crankcase vent hose I plugged both connectors to the throttle body. I can't say for certain it was high vacuum low volume, but considering its quite a small hole I would say that yes, it can't achieve a high volume of air flowing through such a small space. At idle only the lower (eg post butterfly valve) had vacuum, which is inline with the service manual. It states that at open throttle vacuum shifts from post to pre butterfly valve vacuum lines, but I couldn't plug both holes and operate the throttle valve at the same time.
I'll try to reseat the blue hose and make sure it's plugged all the way in. Also going to review the manual and see if I can find out what the black cylinder is for...
Engine idles at around 800 rpm when running rough.
Yeah when I pulled the crankcase vent hose I plugged both connectors to the throttle body. I can't say for certain it was high vacuum low volume, but considering its quite a small hole I would say that yes, it can't achieve a high volume of air flowing through such a small space. At idle only the lower (eg post butterfly valve) had vacuum, which is inline with the service manual. It states that at open throttle vacuum shifts from post to pre butterfly valve vacuum lines, but I couldn't plug both holes and operate the throttle valve at the same time.
I'll try to reseat the blue hose and make sure it's plugged all the way in. Also going to review the manual and see if I can find out what the black cylinder is for...
Voko
Member
Mine isn't leaking either, but I might put a jubilee clip on tomorrow to make me feel better..;-)..can it really just be push fit for a fuel line? There's no sign there was ever a clip there and it all looks standard....
Next time you have mes connected .
Have a look at the rpm to see if it looks sane and not appearing to be fluctuating more than engine rpm fluctuating.
Guess I'm asking if rpm in mes looks correct or looks higher than reality of engine rpm.
Plus you previously mentioned ignition timing was jumping around a lot , have a look and give us more info , How many degrees is it fluctuating by at idle.
Have a look at the rpm to see if it looks sane and not appearing to be fluctuating more than engine rpm fluctuating.
Guess I'm asking if rpm in mes looks correct or looks higher than reality of engine rpm.
Plus you previously mentioned ignition timing was jumping around a lot , have a look and give us more info , How many degrees is it fluctuating by at idle.
Interesting , I only discovered this engine has variable valve timing doing research earlier this eve.
How can the owner check for this problem?
Unplug and drive
and multimeter (but might not functioning properly even when showing the correct ohms.)
check the following link: https://www.alfaowner.com/threads/variator-solenoid-fiy-repair-guide.476153/
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Voko
Member
If it's any help, the attached describes our revision of engine....
minimayhem
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Minor(ish) update.
Replaced the coolant sensor today with a new unit. No change in idle behaviour.
Checked blue vacuum line to ensure its seated fully - looks good. There are 2 bump stops, the first one is fully seated and I can't get the line into the white clip any further.
Also following TSAF's advice, unplugged the VVT solenoid. There was no noticeable change on idle, but I think...*think* that the car drove much better above 2k RPM. I didnt notice hesitation above 2k, once the revs climbed above that number that is, but there is a HUGE deadspot once throttle opens greater than 30%.
Its raining now, plus I'm meant to be at work, so after work I'll go for a longer drive and try playing around with various sensors unplugged/plugged in. If I'm able too I'll grab some readings from mes.
In any case - idle is still rougher than a hedgehogs muff.
Replaced the coolant sensor today with a new unit. No change in idle behaviour.
Checked blue vacuum line to ensure its seated fully - looks good. There are 2 bump stops, the first one is fully seated and I can't get the line into the white clip any further.
Also following TSAF's advice, unplugged the VVT solenoid. There was no noticeable change on idle, but I think...*think* that the car drove much better above 2k RPM. I didnt notice hesitation above 2k, once the revs climbed above that number that is, but there is a HUGE deadspot once throttle opens greater than 30%.
Its raining now, plus I'm meant to be at work, so after work I'll go for a longer drive and try playing around with various sensors unplugged/plugged in. If I'm able too I'll grab some readings from mes.
In any case - idle is still rougher than a hedgehogs muff.
minimayhem
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Alrighty. Unplugging the solenoid had no change in driving behaviour. Idling is incredibly rough. I tried unplugging various sensors but saw no impact.
I got in contact with Henk from Barchettaparts, as he can do ECU testing for no charge. I've also found a supplier with a replacement ECU that has the same part number as mine.
I've sent the ECU to Henk. The issue may not lie with the ECU, but seeing as its a free service, it makes sense to strike it out. If it comes back as having no issues, I'll pop the car over to my parents and work with my dad to falsify signals coming from the IACV, MAF, TPS and temp sensor. This will help check whether the ECU is receiving dud signals from these sensors, either indicating they are bad or that the wiring is bad. If that shows nothing, then I can only think its a vacuum leak at the base of the inlet manifold
If the ECU does come back as faulty, then I can grab a replacement.
I got in contact with Henk from Barchettaparts, as he can do ECU testing for no charge. I've also found a supplier with a replacement ECU that has the same part number as mine.
I've sent the ECU to Henk. The issue may not lie with the ECU, but seeing as its a free service, it makes sense to strike it out. If it comes back as having no issues, I'll pop the car over to my parents and work with my dad to falsify signals coming from the IACV, MAF, TPS and temp sensor. This will help check whether the ECU is receiving dud signals from these sensors, either indicating they are bad or that the wiring is bad. If that shows nothing, then I can only think its a vacuum leak at the base of the inlet manifold
If the ECU does come back as faulty, then I can grab a replacement.
That great,
Thank you for letting us know what you doing.
Please let us know outcome.
