Technical Drum self adjuster bad?

[Meho]

Hey guys, I encountered a problem which is proving hard to solve.
About a month ago I have decided to change my rear drums and shoes.
The job went well, not so difficult but time consuming.
I thought that I did a good job (first time dealing with drum brakes) but for the whole month after I am having a problem with overheating on the rear right.
I take the drum off, get set up the adjuster where it should be but after few days of driving, brake pedal goes really stiff and the rear right is overheating.
Can someone shed some light to this? Self adjuster gone bad? Or something else maybe?
I'll post a picture of the shoes and springs.
Any help is appreciated
Btw, it's 04' punto Sporting with 1.4 16v engine

 

[jackwhoo]

Yes the adjuster is broken , missing a part .
Get a new adjuster a proper one not a cheap carp one .

 

[jackwhoo]

Plus your hand brake cable is over adjusted
Nice and clean though.
Good effort for first go at drums especially since adjuster was broken

 

[jackwhoo]

The part of the adjuster that fits on shoe with hand brake lever needs to be rotated 180 degrees , the long leg goes on outside .

 

[jackwhoo]

https://www.ricambio.co.uk/rear-brake-shoe-assembly-fiat-punto-mk2
That's the other side but what assembly should look like

 

[jackwhoo]

Make sure both pistons in wheel cylinder are not hard to move. Should be possible to push them back into cylinder with gentle pressure ,they should move freely.

Plus check hand brake cable not binding.

 

[jackwhoo]

In second picture you can see the hand brake lever on the shoe. When hand brake released , the part of the lever bent towards camera (about 1cm up from where cable attaches too lever ) should be touching the metal inner egde of the shoe.

 

[Meho]

Thank you guys for the answer and advice.
On the side note, cylinders are fine, checked them and after the job, the system has been bled.
As I see now, I am missing some parts on both adjusters, will try to get scraped ones because new ones are like 100€+ for both, jeez.
As well, the handbrake cable in the cabin (rear ashtray) is very loose, it takes more than 10 clicks for the parking brake to bite.
Is it possible that I didn't attach the cable correctly to the shoe or something?

 

[Meho]

In second picture you can see the hand brake lever on the shoe. When hand brake released , the part of the lever bent towards camera (about 1cm up from where cable attaches too lever ) should be touching the metal inner egde of the shoe.

I am not sure that I am following what are you saying, could you kindly explain a bit more?

 

[jackwhoo]

Hi meho,
With hand brake released should look like this

 

[jackwhoo]

Not like

 

[jackwhoo]

Find the hand brake cable adjuster nut or nuts .

It is highly likely someone has over adjusted cables previously while trying to get the hand brake to work .
You can only get the hand brake to work properly with correctly set automatic shoe adjusters in the drum.

You absolutely need to get working adjusters.

In the meantime .
Loosen the cable adjuster nut inside car at rear of handbrake lever mechanism.
Loosen until the shoes on both sides look like my first picture.
Then adjust the automatic adjuster on each so you can get the drum on.
Press foot brake firmly.
Rotate drum by hand , does it drag on shoes ever so slightly? If yes great
If no then adjust auto adjuster till drum drags slightly on shoes rotating by hand. Press foot brake , makes sure you happy with amount of drag between shoe and drum by hand.

Next put on hand brake , then release hand brake, remove drums look to see if shoes look like my first picture or my second picture.

If shiny silver lever on shoe looks like my first picture great, leave it alone until you get replacement auto adjusters.

If shiny silver lever on shoe looks like my second picture then you need new hand brake cable on the side that looks like my second picture.

Do not touch cable adjusters until you have fitted and set your replacement automatic adjusters

 

[jackwhoo]

Please someone else jump in if I have written anything badly or made any errors.
English is meant to be my first language but I struggle with writing and brakes are important!
Thanks

 

[jimboy]

You have everything under control Jack. I've found with old adjusters there is a fine line lubricating them, obviously after an initial wet anti seize soak you want to make sure they work as they should & dry, then use a dry lubrication, too wet the adjuster gets clogged up. After everything has been assembled as Jack says do not over adjust anything. With drum on obviously, pump the brake pedal 15 times or so & take it from there, if the adjusters are working they should have taken up the slack. There will be a bit of manual adjusting. The adjusters should have been at their lowest slackened off.

 

[jimboy]

Back in 70's as an apprentice they had me doing most of the time, brakes & more brakes. Rear drums haven't changed much, they're more or less the same. On older cars they really need to be inspected twice yearly, lubricating the cables regularly alone can save a lot of work. Rust is your worst enemy. A wee obvious tip is to have both drums off & do whats needed to one side at a time, if you get stuck revert to the other side for reference. Lastly I recommend you have a wee tool bag of the precise tools needed for doing the brakes, you have everything at hand. Decent strong tools are best. Hammer, large flat screwdriver, strong long nosed pliers etc etc. You may land up with doubling up with other tools you have, but as I said earlier, grab the tool bag & you have everything at hand.

 

[jackwhoo]

Back in 70's as an apprentice they had me doing most of the time, brakes & more brakes. Rear drums haven't changed much, they're more or less the same. On older cars they really need to be inspected twice yearly, lubricating the cables regularly alone can save a lot of work. Rust is your worst enemy. A wee obvious tip is to have both drums off & do whats needed to one side at a time, if you get stuck revert to the other side for reference. Lastly I recommend you have a wee tool bag of the precise tools needed for doing the brakes, you have everything at hand. Decent strong tools are best. Hammer, large flat screwdriver, strong long nosed pliers etc etc. You may land up with doubling up with other tools you have, but as I said earlier, grab the tool bag & you have everything at hand.

Call me weird but I quite like drum brakes as it requires a bit of skill , finess, logic to get them just right.

Self locking pliers, mole grips, are very helpful for fitting strong springs.

Second everything you already posted about cleaning and using a tiny amount of dry lube on adjusters. Strangley If adjuster too free to turn it doesn't work.

 

[Meho]

Find the hand brake cable adjuster nut or nuts .

It is highly likely someone has over adjusted cables previously while trying to get the hand brake to work .
You can only get the hand brake to work properly with correctly set automatic shoe adjusters in the drum.

You absolutely need to get working adjusters.

In the meantime .
Loosen the cable adjuster nut inside car at rear of handbrake lever mechanism.
Loosen until the shoes on both sides look like my first picture.
Then adjust the automatic adjuster on each so you can get the drum on.
Press foot brake firmly.
Rotate drum by hand , does it drag on shoes ever so slightly? If yes great
If no then adjust auto adjuster till drum drags slightly on shoes rotating by hand. Press foot brake , makes sure you happy with amount of drag between shoe and drum by hand.

Next put on hand brake , then release hand brake, remove drums look to see if shoes look like my first picture or my second picture.

If shiny silver lever on shoe looks like my first picture great, leave it alone until you get replacement auto adjusters.

If shiny silver lever on shoe looks like my second picture then you need new hand brake cable on the side that looks like my second picture.

Do not touch cable adjusters until you have fitted and set your replacement automatic adjusters

Oh, right now I get it.
After I did the brake job a month ago, I have tightened up the handbrake cables mostly because of the lever being way to lose. Probably that is the case over here, without the proper adjuster, couldn't get in the right spot maybe...
Anyways, I will dig in the work tomorrow, for some reason, it is proving difficult to find second-hand adjusters so maybe I will have to buy new ones..

I can't thank you enough for the help from you guys and I will update the post when and if I resolve the current issue.

 

[jackwhoo]

That's good because you know where the cable adjuster is(-:
The correct handbrake cable adjustment is to adjust cable so there 2mm free freeplay in cable when the silver shoe lever is in position shown in my first photo. You can do this with the drums off so you can see everything easily. The raised stop on the silver lever must be against the golden coloured shoe with the handbrake released.
Once you have done this adjustment don't change it trying to reduce lever movement inside car. If lever movement in car is too much it will be because the shoes are set too far away from drum.

 

[jackwhoo]

New adjusters sound expensive but it will save you a lot of time and you do need them.

 

[jackwhoo]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2709746110..._WLBVS6Co_sk1AUysi8qpw8emb4tWz0caAhdtEALw_wcB