Are you sure
Every car I have tested has been under 0.5V unless it has a faulty block ground
My panda has a 0.2V voltage drop battery negative to block
Technical Alternator only starts generating after revving
- Thread starter nigelvan
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Technical Alternator only starts generating after revving
Every car I have tested has been under 0.5V unless it has a faulty block ground
My panda has a 0.2V voltage drop battery negative to block
Voltage drop between negative terminal and engine block. You're probably talking about battery voltage drop when cranking.
If you jumper these two wires
At ignition on D+ would still be below 4.5V
At cranking the D+ would get battery feed
At engine running D+ would be normal output
Shouldn't throw a battery light error
Not ideal
this is the signal to the starter motor, with D+ at 14V this would keep the starter motor engaged...
Anyway, the problem is solved with the new Bosch regulator.
You are correct, my mistake
Glad the new regulator fix it, what's that 3 regulators including the original
Well done in sticking with it
yes, sorry
Yep, I did return the Hitachi regulator, hoping to get my money back. So then it was a 40 € fix.
It still slightly revs up when starting the van, but it does start the alternator on its own. I'll keep it at that for a 17 year old vehicle.
Anyway next problem with this -> new alternator. (But we weren't sure if the BCM was at fault or not, in the beginning of this thread)
Communicator
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Perhaps you are thinking of overall battery voltage drop? The measurement was for the drop between battery negative, and engine block, in essence a check on the quality of the two earthing connections.
Update after traveling to Sweden with the van: New regulator does its job. alternator starts on its own somewhere between 1000 and 1250 90% of the times. So the ECU still raises the rpm's. I have the impression the rpm at which the alternator starts is lower with a cold engine (= first start of the day). With a warm engine or restarting not long (less than 30 min) after shutting it down I still need to apply a very tiny amount of throttle to get it going. Otherwise it's doing a fine job, charging the household battery in the back (with a 30A DC-DC charger). Load has no effect on the behaviour.
If anyone is interested I made a Youtube episode about it.
Other than that all is going well except I got a DTC on the Turbo Pressure sensor (does it have one besides the MAP?) one time at start. I tried to clear the code and it didn't come back yet (this was 2 days ago). Anyway, that is for another Thread if comes back...
If anyone is interested I made a Youtube episode about it.
Other than that all is going well except I got a DTC on the Turbo Pressure sensor (does it have one besides the MAP?) one time at start. I tried to clear the code and it didn't come back yet (this was 2 days ago). Anyway, that is for another Thread if comes back...
Communicator
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Are you referring to the MAF, which measures airflow not pressure? Expect to see something similar to attached details on the inlet manifold.
The error code was specifically about the Turbocharger, which surprised me as well. The sensor on the attachment is the MAP and in indeed located on the inlet manifold. I recognize it because I took it out and cleaned it, 2 - 3 years ago. It gets sooted up by the EGR... The MAF is located behind the air filter if I recall correctly. I always thought if the ECU knows about MAF and MAP values it can derivate the Boost pressure from that and there's no extra sensor on the turbo... Anyway it didn't come back and there's no indication that anything is wrong, no smoke, loss of power and fuel economy on the Swedisch roads is great (about 9L/100km)
