I recently replaced the Front Left axel on my 2012 500 sport. Even not being a car guy it was pretty easy but now there is a grinding sound but only when turning right. Did I get a bad part? did I do something wrong any thoughts ?
Technical 2012 sport axel noise.
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Technical 2012 sport axel noise.
Soooo, a little follow up. I did a few test drives after doing the initial axel change and it was making a grinding noise when I turned right. I my torque wrench only goes to 150 and I think the specs were 229lbs so I guessed on how far past the edge of the gauge I had to go based on the spacing on the actual numbers. after letting the car sit for a few days I checked it again and it was way down to like 75lbs so I tightened it up again past the 150 mark, and marked the bolt, then went on cleaning the garage. After about 30 minutes I went back looked and the markings had moved, I did not move the car al all. I got out the wrench and it was back down below 100. I cranked it up again to as far as I could guessing over 200 by how far past the 150 mark I was and marked the bolt again. let it sit for another 30 minutes while I talked to my car savvy friends. I went back and it was still tight and no movement. Took it for a test drive down to the auto store and no noises. I planned on using their rental torque wrench but theirs only went to 150 too. Drove home no noise and no movement. I am guessing I fixed it so now I crimped it in place and am currently hoping for the best. But still confused on how a bold can come undone just sitting there.
This thread may interest you: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/front-hub-nut-torques.495329/
I believe there are differences between your spec cars and the ones we have over here, but I would imagine the driveshaft assemblies are pretty similar. I guess we're talking about the big centre nut which holds the drive shaft into the hub? I could understand how torque may appear to be reduced after standing for some time if the nut had not been tightened enough in the first place as the shaft could "settle" into the wheel bearing so when you then recheck it later it appears to have slackened when what's actually happened is the shaft has very slightly moved further into the hub bearing?. However I don't have any idea how the nut could appear to actually undo itself.
If the nut is not tightened enough then the preload on the bearing will be incorrect and if you continue to drive it like this bearing damage is likely to result. However, most automotive wheel bearing assemblies now a days are designed so the two inner races come hard up against eachother when the big retaining nut is properly tightened and this is what controls the preload on the bearing assembly. So, whilst undertightening may eventually cause bearing damage - because the bearings may be running "slack" with too much free play - It's unlikely that over tightening the nut will result in bearing damage (unlike older designs where overtightening could cause catastrophic damage by over loading the bearings. Of course I'm not suggesting overtightening that nut is to be recommended because other damage my be done - for instance the threads may be stretched or stripped and/or the CV joint stub axle weakened by stretching (I'm sure I could think of other reasons if I thought about it for long enough)
So the recommendation has to be that, with such a safety critical part as a wheel bearing or drive shaft/axle, it has to be correctly fitted and tightened. Just doing it up with a long bar, maybe with a bit of tubing over it for extra leverage, really isn't acceptable any more. You seem pretty sure that you're not managing to get this tight enough? Have you thought about dropping in at your local garage and getting them to finish it off using their big torque wrench?
What ever you end up doing please do let us know how you get on won't you?
I believe there are differences between your spec cars and the ones we have over here, but I would imagine the driveshaft assemblies are pretty similar. I guess we're talking about the big centre nut which holds the drive shaft into the hub? I could understand how torque may appear to be reduced after standing for some time if the nut had not been tightened enough in the first place as the shaft could "settle" into the wheel bearing so when you then recheck it later it appears to have slackened when what's actually happened is the shaft has very slightly moved further into the hub bearing?. However I don't have any idea how the nut could appear to actually undo itself.
If the nut is not tightened enough then the preload on the bearing will be incorrect and if you continue to drive it like this bearing damage is likely to result. However, most automotive wheel bearing assemblies now a days are designed so the two inner races come hard up against eachother when the big retaining nut is properly tightened and this is what controls the preload on the bearing assembly. So, whilst undertightening may eventually cause bearing damage - because the bearings may be running "slack" with too much free play - It's unlikely that over tightening the nut will result in bearing damage (unlike older designs where overtightening could cause catastrophic damage by over loading the bearings. Of course I'm not suggesting overtightening that nut is to be recommended because other damage my be done - for instance the threads may be stretched or stripped and/or the CV joint stub axle weakened by stretching (I'm sure I could think of other reasons if I thought about it for long enough)
So the recommendation has to be that, with such a safety critical part as a wheel bearing or drive shaft/axle, it has to be correctly fitted and tightened. Just doing it up with a long bar, maybe with a bit of tubing over it for extra leverage, really isn't acceptable any more. You seem pretty sure that you're not managing to get this tight enough? Have you thought about dropping in at your local garage and getting them to finish it off using their big torque wrench?
What ever you end up doing please do let us know how you get on won't you?
