Technical 1996 fiat ducato 2.5tdi (sofim) turbo actuator question
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Technical 1996 fiat ducato 2.5tdi (sofim) turbo actuator question
A bit tricky then.
Is there an intercooler at front of vehicle near the radiator that you can check hose near?
Hi Jack
Just also add that the diaphragm that the spring acts upon do often have fatigue cracks which can lead to the capsule failing.
Neil
I've been playing with Turbo's on race engines for about 30 years, including bike engines to around 500 BHP
yes its a tag axle A class. (yes i know it is never going to be a Ferrari!)
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Thinking sideways, there are two components in obtaining more power from an engine . Boost pressure, and the consequent ability to burn more fuel. If the boost pressure is present, then lack of power could be due to a faulty diapragm in the Bosch VE pump, boost pressure housing.
yes there are two hoses coming from that (easily removed) that go across the front of the engine bay leading into/out of the inlet manifold.
i had that apart last week....diaphragm is fine. i also tweaked it a quarter turn and the low pressure wheel at the bottom 1/2 turn. it improved it very slightly on the flat...but still no low down torque.
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On my 2.8jtd, the intercooler hoses can be squeezed slightly by hand. If this is done while the engine is revved, it should be possible to feel the hose expand with the boost pressure.
So maybe test for pressure there, same rules apply as before.
If boost is working when engine revs up it should be nearly impossible to hold it closed with your hand.
Make sure it is the pressure side.
i'll give that a try...thank you. (however not today as i'm waiting for a hub seal!)(and the drive shaft spins when engine is running without the hub on!)
i will do....thank you Mike.So maybe test for pressure there, same rules apply as before.
If boost is working when engine revs up it should be nearly impossible to hold it closed with your hand.
Make sure it is the pressure side.
One hose should be connected to the boost side of turbo the other hose should connect to the inlet manifold.
Both hoses and intercooler are under pressure when turbo working.
yes that should be a simple check (when i get the hub back together!)(bearing seal went) (as stated above the shaft spins violently with no hub attached!!)
well today i invested in a smoke leak detector.........tested from the turbo inlet hose and looked everywhere and not one leak found!
(it was a little windy,so plan is to test again when its not windy....just in case)
if the turbo waste gate remains closed as it is,(the arm remains not extended) then in theory i should get boost.......and if the arm is extended then i get less boost correct? i cannot move this arm without getting pliers or a spanner on it,and being there is quite a bit of resistance (it wants to spring back) i think the spring pressure inside the waste gate is fine.
when my wife rev'd the engine twice in succession to see if this arm moved (it didn't) i could clearly hear the turbo spooling up/down (i was under the van near the turbo) so i think the turbo is probably ok.
i have always believed the injection timing is out on this engine.......(it has only done a genuine 52k miles from new by the way) i'm told the injection timing should be checked/reset after a belt change with a dti guage.(i bet it wasn't) she is quite smoky when cold,and it is distinctly fuel! once warm she runs clean. although when hot she is definitely more rattly. (like the timing is out)
i removed the cold start wax stat a long time ago........it failed twice! (i have a choke style cable to go on if needed but haven't found the need) (by the way when the wax stat was on it smoked a lot more!!) (mind you it was winter time and it always looks worse in the winter)
so if the timing is out would that explain the lack of power?
(it was a little windy,so plan is to test again when its not windy....just in case)
if the turbo waste gate remains closed as it is,(the arm remains not extended) then in theory i should get boost.......and if the arm is extended then i get less boost correct? i cannot move this arm without getting pliers or a spanner on it,and being there is quite a bit of resistance (it wants to spring back) i think the spring pressure inside the waste gate is fine.
when my wife rev'd the engine twice in succession to see if this arm moved (it didn't) i could clearly hear the turbo spooling up/down (i was under the van near the turbo) so i think the turbo is probably ok.
i have always believed the injection timing is out on this engine.......(it has only done a genuine 52k miles from new by the way) i'm told the injection timing should be checked/reset after a belt change with a dti guage.(i bet it wasn't) she is quite smoky when cold,and it is distinctly fuel! once warm she runs clean. although when hot she is definitely more rattly. (like the timing is out)
i removed the cold start wax stat a long time ago........it failed twice! (i have a choke style cable to go on if needed but haven't found the need) (by the way when the wax stat was on it smoked a lot more!!) (mind you it was winter time and it always looks worse in the winter)
so if the timing is out would that explain the lack of power?
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If you are fairly happy you have turbo boost, then back to timing, both valve and injector as if either even a small amount out may be the answer.well today i invested in a smoke leak detector.........tested from the turbo inlet hose and looked everywhere and not one leak found!
(it was a little windy,so plan is to test again when its not windy....just in case)
if the turbo waste gate remains closed as it is,(the arm remains not extended) then in theory i should get boost.......and if the arm is extended then i get less boost correct? i cannot move this arm without getting pliers or a spanner on it,and being there is quite a bit of resistance (it wants to spring back) i think the spring pressure inside the waste gate is fine.
when my wife rev'd the engine twice in succession to see if this arm moved (it didn't) i could clearly hear the turbo spooling up/down (i was under the van near the turbo) so i think the turbo is probably ok.
i have always believed the injection timing is out on this engine.......(it has only done a genuine 52k miles from new by the way) i'm told the injection timing should be checked/reset after a belt change with a dti guage.(i bet it wasn't) she is quite smoky when cold,and it is distinctly fuel! once warm she runs clean. although when hot she is definitely more rattly. (like the timing is out)
i removed the cold start wax stat a long time ago........it failed twice! (i have a choke style cable to go on if needed but haven't found the need) (by the way when the wax stat was on it smoked a lot more!!) (mind you it was winter time and it always looks worse in the winter)
so if the timing is out would that explain the lack of power?
I can't recall , but in the beginning did you give the engine Series Number for me to give you the timing belt detail for your model?
I recall mentioning about injection timing point and the DTI gauge.
Assuming cam belt timing is correct, obviously the SDTI gauge in the back of Bosch Injector pump is the most precise method, however I have time a Ford York diesel I fitted in a LandRover in the 1980s using a method taught at College using a Swan neck tube connected to the No1 injector pipe at the injector and a child's plastic protractor to mark the initial injection point on the crankshaft pulley with good results as engine ran well and was more economical than a LandRover original diesel engine.
The tube is allowed to fill with diesel visibly, then it is possible to see the exact point the injector pump releases fuel to that cylinder and check where the protractor mark is. It does take a bit of practice and care, but basically what was used in the past on many lorry engines.
Another method with engine running is a Diesel timing light, I have a proper Bosch one for diesels, but it is possible to buy a adaptor to fit a normal petrol "induction" timing light (the type that clips over the HT lead plastic and reads the impulse. It is done by a special clamp that fits over No1injector pipe and converts the impulse it feels as fuel is injected under high pressure and sends the signal to the timing light.
I did have a Snap On version some years ago.
This method will have to take account of the timing advance as engine running so related to revs.
On the Bosch version you may have seen in one of my boat photos it was showing the revs and I believe the advance at the time.
Below is the basic Snap On version, the loop of HT wire is where your normal petrol timing light clips on.
Attachments
Hi Mike,thanks yet again......i think its the 8140.47 series. (i could be wrong) anyway its a 1996 2.5tdi. (or is it idtd?) i'm going to get an old school guy to look at the timing for me (he is supposed to be ringing me this morning.) W Pringle Ltd, based in Alnwick, Northumberland.
Am i right in thinking the timing should be 55 degrees on these?
Am i right in thinking the timing should be 55 degrees on these?
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8140.47 was suggested by me in post #4. You should find confirmation on the VIN plate next to the heading "Motore".
Hi,you are of course correct. thank you. i'd forgotten you'd already mentioned it previously. (its an age thing!)
This is what I have for the 8140.47.
The 55 degrees doesn't sound right to me.
Incidentally the 2.8 engine to the right of the pen was what I put in my boat , the 122Hp version, before I increased it's power.
I have some cam belt timing data but the Fiat version only shows the 2.5 as engine series 8144. not the 8140. I do have some cross reference in Iveco Daily data with those engines.
