Tuning 1368cc 16V FIRE Turbo (T-Jet) Uno conversion

[Louie Bee]

I just emailed him again (both his addresses) but maybe my content filter ate his reply.

TBH I didn't have the sound on as the little en is asleep, but you could perhaps overlay the sound from the rearward onto the forward facing footage?

Is there any sound at the back I just remember panic after the second bend

 

[lewey]

I just emailed him again (both his addresses) but maybe my content filter ate his reply.

TBH I didn't have the sound on as the little en is asleep, but you could perhaps overlay the sound from the rearward onto the forward facing footage?

Is there any sound at the back I just remember panic after the second bend

Good idea about the sound. The exhaust is audible when you're on the back bumper! I let my friend drive for a few laps and I could hear the exhaust much more clearly than in the driver's seat which was interesting. I expect noise to increase when I replace the silenced downpipe. Probably boost noise will go up though as well as the hybrid turbo will go on at the same time!

 

[a73uk]

I dont supose fitting an adjustable regulator somewhere in the system, maybe pre-pump, would help? Or a resistor/rheostat in the pump wiring to cap/regulate the pump speed?

 

[lewey]

I dont supose fitting an adjustable regulator somewhere in the system, maybe pre-pump, would help? Or a resistor/rheostat in the pump wiring to cap/regulate the pump speed?

The pump is standard spec using standard tank, filter and specification lines to the engine. I've never read of an Uno owner having to take measures to prevent their pump from breaking in normal use. There is an issue somewhere that needs fixing. I'll get to it, probably on the weekend.

 

[lewey]

Found a bit of video that does have reasonable engine sound facing forward. It's an out-lap with a red flag at the end for a Porsche that crashes. Gives an interesting comparison between a well-driven fast Seven and the Uno. The Seven is king of course, but it's not absolutely running away considering my tyres are cool and I haven't got into the groove yet.

 

[a73uk]

The pump is standard spec using standard tank, filter and specification lines to the engine. I've never read of an Uno owner having to take measures to prevent their pump from breaking in normal use. There is an issue somewhere that needs fixing. I'll get to it, probably on the weekend.

I see what you mean, its logical it should just work, as you say it should all be compatible & it may be a fault somewhere, I`m just saying what would go through my mind if I was in your position!

Something else occurred to me, you mentioned it being affected by the alternator output a couple of pages ago, I think you said it was better at idle? I`m assuming your using the current type (90 amp?) t-jet alternator, instead of the original 65 amp UT one, maybe its `overpowering` the pump?

Logically it shouldnt, but you know logic doesnt always come into it!

I`m not sure how much of the t-jet elctronics/wiring/relays you said you were using now...

Have you tried loading up the current drain by swich the HRW, heater, lights etc at idle on to see if it reduces the issue?

These are all just random thoughts I`m having!

 

[lewey]

The tank is off and as I thought is in excellent condition inside and out with little or no crap in it. Photos with flash on to highlight things as much as possible; most of the little rust specs aren't visible in daylight. As you can see, the outlet pipe comes into the little baffled box and almost rests on the base of it. The only thing I can think of to do it maybe bend the pipe up slightly to allow easier input of petrol into it as the gap is current very small. Will leave me more open to starvation potentially. Also, I don't see how I can could clean the inside of the tank at all with the access I have. I'm curious to give it a wipe in the baffled section, but afraid to lose anything I put down there!

The rear trapdoor is slightly reluctant to close under gravity like the front one, but the lightest tap sees it move, so pretty sure it would move with petrol anywhere near it. Again, hard to fix with the access!

 

[lewey]

Oh yes, regarding the tank vent. Can easily blow into tank, but I can also suck from the tank, with a little more force. Is that right? Am I overcoming a pre-set pressure?

 

[Louie Bee]

I'd guess you want air into the tank easier than out as positive pressure is perhaps more desirable to a pressure.

Negative pressure (caused by fuel / ambient temp drop or tank as empties) would be no good as you’d hit vacuum and no more fuel would be able to leave the tank. Thinking of that sound of air rushing out the tank when you remove the fuel cap sometimes makes me think positive is OK that’s all..

Anyway I’m not sure your tank exit is faulty. what’s the point of having a 12mm pipe if the entrance is restricted?

Acutely I just dug mine out and perhaps it’s the angle that mates it look like it’s stuck to the bottom of the tank??

Hers my MK1 internals



I noticed that my return line is also plumed into the side with the arrow pointing out the tank, with the other blanked off. There was a receipt for level sender replacement in with the reshell bitt that came with this car. The tank is not the one that came with it as badly rusted but the level sender is as other one Snapple.



Any signes of impacu to the tank bottom? An easy way of increasing the gap could be with an extra long punch when your sure no vapour is in the tank. Don’t want an explosion no do ya?

 

[lewey]

Anyway I’m not sure your tank exit is faulty. what’s the point of having a 12mm pipe if the entrance is restricted?

Don't understand this.

I noticed that my return line is also plumed into the side with the arrow pointing out the tank, with the other blanked off.

Now isn't that curious? I thought mine was a one-off, but obviously this was something that was obvious to do with the parts at the time.

I am tempted to bend the outlet tube up slightly. If I don't, I basically have definitely not fixed the issue, which is a bit annoying! I will try to make a device to measure the gap it sucks from in case it is more than it looks!

 

[randomizered]

Did you try bending it slightly?

The tank design seems odd...can't understand why they made it like that.

Are there any other similar or same sized tanks that could fit, maybe with an in tank pump?

Hopefully bending the pipe a bit will help things out though

 

[lewey]

Gonna bend and put back in this weekend. Thought about another tank. There was an SPI version of the car with familiar in tank setup, but doesn't appear to have a swirl pot as part of the design like others do! I really can't be bothered to fit something else though otherwise as I don't actually have a fuel problem in terms of engine performance, just a suspiciously struggling-sounding, cavitation-ridden pump (whichever pump I use).

I may have to consider voltage regulation at around 12v, as it seems fine at this voltage. We shall see.

I am now concentrating on making the original dashboard display things properly, tidying up temporary mountings of things, fitting horn and other boring things so I can get an MOT as that has expired and generally finish it off as a "real" car.

 

[Louie Bee]

I'd bent the tank downwards, not the pipe up as your buggered if the pipe snaps

 

[lewey]

I'd bent the tank downwards, not the pipe up as your buggered if the pipe snaps

I hear you. It actually gives a possible reason - the tank was hit on bottom - for a too small gap (if there is) and therefore my problem too. Perhaps not likely, but I'm seeking an answer to my woes!

 

[randomizered]

fingers crossed for you

 

[lewey]

I was messing with the car trying to get it to show me RPM on the original clocks with a CANM8 device. The device seems to just not work, which is annoying.

I put the fuel tank back in after some mild bending of the pre-mentioned pipe. Pump still makes noises. Don't care anymore. I just want to get an MOT and drive it now.

I put the "proper" lightweight OZ wheels on today and in doing so came across an annoying problem. I appear to have wrecked the threads in most of the bolt holes on both the rear hubs. I am not sure how this has happened. I think it is a combination of using so-called "wobbly" bolts for the 4x100 alloys and the bolts themselves being soft and dirtying the threads with metal. I then fitted some alfa alloys with normal bolts a couple of which I thought were a bit tight. I'm obviously stronger than I thought I was. If anyone has a pair, let me know.

 

[randysbits]

I hope you have spigot rings in your OZ rims ? this could be the problem you are having with the threads, interferance bolts are supposed to tightened gradually, bit by bit, opposite holes etc.

 

[Louie Bee]

Have a read of these 2 threds before going to the motor factors

http://www.turbocollective.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2778

http://www.turbocollective.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3880&sid=e989fe6a83f8a56d4f7e585bc3080a7f

 

[rawill]

Great thread, amazing work!

I only got around to reading it last night, great dedication and passion for the task.

I will be intrigued to know what the cavitation issue is. I also wondered about the electrical issue mentioned.

Years ago we could not get our Triumph PI rally car to go properly when we put the lights on. It was fine all the rest of the time.

We hunted for weeks until we replaced the fuel pump! The extra load caused by the lighting for night rallying took too much current and the pump slowed down, causing a fuel issue!!

So although there may be no leaks anywhere, could a fast pump suck air from some where to create cavitation. I haven't got a clue really.

The issue should be simple but clearly it is not!

Happy hunting.

 

[lewey]

I hope you have spigot rings in your OZ rims ? this could be the problem you are having with the threads, interferance bolts are supposed to tightened gradually, bit by bit, opposite holes etc.

I do have correct spigot rings in them. I still don't know how it happened.

Great thread, amazing work!

I only got around to reading it last night, great dedication and passion for the task.

Thank you. I did spend a long time planning things, so the execution wasn't that bad really.

Anyway, I have had some time away from cars for a bit. I'm now keen to get an MOT on the Uno and drive it a bit. I've done quite a few little jobs to tidy up things but still have the rear bearings to sort out. I bought a pair from someone on here. One had a trashed bearing and I am seeking a refund. I've decided to just buy some new and will be following the advice in the posts linked to above by Louie.

I do still have the issue of no gauges working at all, but shouldn't be a failure on an MOT, if my interpretation of the rules is correct. I am close to sorting a coolant sensor, but I think that will be it for a bit. I am at a loss as to how to get RPM and need to get some little adapters/tee-pieces made for oil pressure/temp if I want them.