Technical Rear caliper tool

[Panda IIs]

The driveshaft refused to come out of the hub so I went the other route, these are the worst discs to change I've ever done I hope when I'm done I hope I never have to do them again, they were badly designed, I will finish the other side in the morning

I kind of agree with you re design but I think the rear discs thing is borrowed from the 500 Abarth (presuming they need a disc on the 4x4 to allow the "smoke and mirrors" diff lock effect). The issue of crusty discs on an Abarth is probably less so; on a Panda all they need to do is go around and be a handbrake! There is a "nod" to the disassembly issue in that there is a cut out in the axle to "help" with one of the bolts.

I seem to recall there's a video on YT for the Abarth rear brakes(?)

 

[Steveetee55]

I kind of agree with you re design but I think the rear discs thing is borrowed from the 500 Abarth (presuming they need a disc on the 4x4 to allow the "smoke and mirrors" diff lock effect). The issue of crusty discs on an Abarth is probably less so; on a Panda all they need to do is go around and be a handbrake! There is a "nod" to the disassembly issue in that there is a cut out in the axle to "help" with one of the bolts.

I seem to recall there's a video on YT for the Abarth rear brakes(?)

Yeah I watched a yt vid about abarth rear discs they are an F sight easier to change that the discs on mine you could probably do both in a couple of hours

 

[TTR]

Eh up

Welcome to the Rear Discs Changing Club

I’m betting the only way to get the bu88er over the splines is a puller or slide hammer - as I said i elected to go down the yellow car route as I’m convinced the bearing will be pressed and will separate given the forces needed to remove the hub.

Least it’s one side well done, unless your disc is coated I’d throw some heat resistant paint on the disc Hub body to stop corrosion. Worked for me and keeps it in good nick.

Good luck with the other side - let us know if you go down the hub off route.

 

[Steveetee55]

All done after a snapped 1/2 to 3/8 socket adapter straight from the off and after spending an hour driving round sunny keefley trying to get a new one two new shiny discs and pads I hope I never have to change these again they are a right pain in the butt!!

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

All done... two new shiny discs and pads I hope I never have to change these again they are a right pain in the butt!!

I guess the saving grace is that they last a very long time. Mine were changed (at both ends of the car) for the first time at 46,000 miles (and five years old) and to be honest the rears could have gone a lot further. The old rear discs were lovely and shiny, so clearly everything was working and moving as it should have done. As I've mentioned here before, a regular wash of the mechanical bits with a jet from a hose (not a pressure washer) seems to keep the crud (and as a result, corrosion and rust rust) away and seems to keep things sweet.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I guess the saving grace is that they last a very long time. Mine were changed (at both ends of the car) for the first time at 46,000 miles (and five years old) and to be honest the rears could have gone a lot further. The old rear discs were lovely and shiny, so clearly everything was working and moving as it should have done. As I've mentioned here before, a regular wash of the mechanical bits with a jet from a hose (not a pressure washer) seems to keep the crud (and as a result, corrosion and rust rust) away and seems to keep things sweet.

Ive had to strip and clean mine twice in its 1st 5 years. They are working fine. I dont really drive it fast or far enough for things to get a work out its just 20K now.

 

[Steveetee55]

I've had so many annoying comments of Facebook as to why it's took so long to do and they can't be that hard to change make me laugh they probably have never attempted to do it one person said perhaps I should try turning the wheel out to get to the bolts on the carrier!!

 

[Panda IIs]

I've had so many annoying comments of Facebook as to why it's took so long to do and they can't be that hard to change make me laugh they probably have never attempted to do it one person said perhaps I should try turning the wheel out to get to the bolts on the carrier!!

Yep, you know who your friends are on the book of the face

 

[The Panda Nut]

I've had so many annoying comments of Facebook as to why it's took so long to do and they can't be that hard to change make me laugh they probably have never attempted to do it one person said perhaps I should try turning the wheel out to get to the bolts on the carrier!!

I may have a detailed look when I need to change but I am not looking forward to it . At a glance it looks horrendous. I m ust start dosing all the bolts with oil. I hope mine will do another 5 years. Its a shame the idiots dont keep quiet.

 

[WitleyPanda]

Just done them both for the second time ( 101k). Once you done them once, or even just one of them the time to do them is far quicker. However did it over two days as refurbished and re-attached the shields, cleaned, primed and protected the 4 off E18 and the two off cap heads so that when I do at around 150K ( another 3 years) there still something to grab hold of. Considered the mod to change the cap heads to flange hex, but on balance put the cap heads back. I brought a deep E18 socket which fitted the front two bolts easier that a standard I used before, slimmer clearing the CV boot. Remembered to take out the shock bottom bolt. Hopefully in daily use with a15k+ annual mileage it might just be pads next time.

 

[Steveetee55]

I may have a detailed look when I need to change but I am not looking forward to it . At a glance it looks horrendous. I m ust start dosing all the bolts with oil. I hope mine will do another 5 years. Its a shame the idiots dont keep quiet.

I lost my **** with one comment I shouldn't rise but I did, might have had something to do with one to many ciders last night strictly medicinal of course

 

[Steveetee55]

Just done them both for the second time ( 101k). Once you done them once, or even just one of them the time to do them is far quicker. However did it over two days as refurbished and re-attached the shields, cleaned, primed and protected the 4 off E18 and the two off cap heads so that when I do at around 150K ( another 3 years) there still something to grab hold of. Considered the mod to change the cap heads to flange hex, but on balance put the cap heads back. I brought a deep E18 socket which fitted the front two bolts easier that a standard I used before, slimmer clearing the CV boot. Remembered to take out the shock bottom bolt. Hopefully in daily use with a15k+ annual mileage it might just be pads next time.

It was the 2 front bolts I struggled with that's where I snapped my 1/2"to 3/8" adapter taking one of them out yesterday there were a few choice works echoing round the garage, but when I had finished I done a little celebration jig my knuckles are aching today didn't help I had to trim a bloody humongous conifer hedge today think it may be time for some more medicinal cider tonight

 

[Steveetee55]

I may have a detailed look when I need to change but I am not looking forward to it . At a glance it looks horrendous. I m ust start dosing all the bolts with oil. I hope mine will do another 5 years. Its a shame the idiots dont keep quiet.

Warming the bolts up with a hot air gun really helped loosen of the bolts I never bothered with the penetration oil

 

[Steveetee55]

Next on the to do list is the front discs and pads the wire brush front and rear subframes, paint them with bilt hamber hydrate 80 top coat them,the treat with bilt hamber wax but that won't be done till the so called summer appears

 

[TTR]

Eh up steveeree55

Cracking job and once again welcome to the Rear Disc Club

Front are a dream compared to the rear , you’ll be fine

I did my frames with Dinitrol rust converter and the top coat, works a dream.

Also did my rear dust shields, disc hubs and callipers with high temp black enamel - 5 years on and there good as new.

If it’s a keeper worth investing the time.

Also if you get time whip out the wheel nuts, soak in rust converts and blast over in satin black

Good to see yours coming along.

Enjoy the loopy juice

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Just for the comparison... looked back at my bill from The Fiat Workshop, Royston from May last year. Total cost for rear pads, discs and the time to fit them was £209, with just one hour of labour charged. https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/

The bill lists one disc, but two were fitted. For me this was worth paying for, rather than faffing on my (sloping) driveway at home. The parts will either have been Fiat original or a very good alternative. The whole 48,000 mile service (including pollen filter), front and rear discs and pads, and MOT was done in under four hours... I know that because I collected it back less than four hours from when I dropped it off If you're anywhere near North Hertfordshire, these guys really are very good and great value too! (They do Alfa's too - in fact that their main business - https://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/)

Column headings for the numbers are, L to R: quantity, unit price, actual price, and VAT to be added

 

[TTR]

Eh up Herts,

The great Yorkshire War Cry just went up…..

How Much !!!!!!!!!

Seriously good price that for all the work - think you got a bargin there

 

[Steveetee55]

Eh up Herts,

The great Yorkshire War Cry just went up…..

How Much !!!!!!!!!

Seriously good price that for all the work - think you got a bargin there

Discs were £18 each Brembo discs pads were febi bilstein £18 £54 free delivery autodoc £5 copper grease £7 brake cleaner, cheapest I could get discs and pads locally was £80 & they were not a brand I have heard of if I bought brembo or pagid local would have cost over a ton and let's not even think about fiat prices £120 just for the discs!! So bargain bar a broken socket adapter and cut knuckles and a lot of colourfull language

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Eh up Herts,

The great Yorkshire War Cry just went up…..

How Much !!!!!!!!!

Seriously good price that for all the work - think you got a bargin there

Actually, just reread this and realise the VAT column wasn't added to the cost, but showed what the VAT was on the figure to its left. So, the total bill for the rear brakes was actually 'only' £179.40

 

[Steveetee55]

Actually, just reread this and realise the VAT column wasn't added to the cost, but showed what the VAT was on the figure to its left. So, the total bill for the rear bakes was actually 'only' £179.40

Which is a bargain price